Dependable perennial offers late color while supporting butterflies, bees and birds
Asters bring color to late summer and fall gardens. They work well in mixed perennial beds or as companions to roses. Debbie Arrington
This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, dedicated to to blooming plants.
Like their name implies, asters are the little stars of the September garden.
Their individual flowers may not be that large or showy, but their masses of blooms create bursts of late-season color – and welcome nectar for bees and butterflies.
Asters may be the most important nectar plant we can grow to feed hungry pollinators in early fall when little else is coming into bloom. Butterflies naturally gravitate to asters (they have the right landing-platform shape), and several species use asters as host plants for their young.
Birds appreciate them, too; in late fall, songbirds feed on aster seed.
More reasons to plant asters: They’re tough and easy care; they can take a lot of abuse and still keep blooming. They tolerate hot and dry summers with little effort on the gardener’s part. (And they make a long-lasting cut flower, too.)
“Aster” is the ancient Greek word for “star,” a nod to the flower’s shape. Cousins to daisies and sunflowers, asters are an easy-to-recognize part of the sprawling Asteraceae family, which includes more than 32,000 species. Of those, the genus Aster had included more than 600 species originating from North America and Eurasia. Genetic studies in the 1990s reclassified most of the New World asters into other genera. (The Aster genus itself is now down to about 180 species, mostly low-growing perennials.)
Regardless of where they originated, asters and their hybrids have made themselves at home in California gardens. They were made to grow here; several species are native to our Central Valley and foothills. That includes the prolific Pacific or California aster (Symphyotrichum chilense, formerly Aster chilensis), which grows wild from Southern California to British Columbia.
Improved hybrids have tamed asters’ wilder instincts – they’re fast growing and can be fast spreading – to make them compact additions to our flower beds. Among the best are ‘Monch’ asters (Aster × frikartii); this variety blooms profusely with little lavender-hued daisy-like flowers while the plant stays compact. Another favorite hybrid: ‘Purple Dome’ asters (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae ‘Purple Dome’), a variety of New England aster that forms an attractive mound of dark purple blooms.
Ranging in color from white to deep purple with plenty of blues and pinks in between, most asters are perennials. Growing from underground rhizomes, they form ground-hugging mats of dark green foliage. They need heat to sprout and are often the last perennials to poke out of the ground in spring.
In late summer, they send up flower stems, usually under 2 feet tall. In most species, the stems are packed with flower buds that eventually open into masses of daisy-like blooms or little buttons of pastel petals.
Their timing is keyed by the length of days. As summer wanes, days get shorter – and that triggers their bloom cycle. They usually sprout their first flower stems in late July with blooms opening sometime in September.
That timing also helps migrating fall butterflies in need of nectar as well as hungry bees.
In the British Isles, the native aster is nicknamed “Michaelmas daisy” because its bright blue flowers reliably bloom in time for the Feast of Saint Michael and All Angels, traditionally held Sept. 29.
Aster care
Naturally resilient and drought tolerant, asters have one necessity; they can’t stand wet feet. They need good drainage, including in winter. Don’t plant them in a place where there will be standing water; their crown will rot.
That said, they will tolerate clay soil – as long as they’re not over-watered. Add some compost or other organic material before planting to improve drainage.
Asters can be transplanted in fall or spring. They prefer full sun (at least six hours a day), but will tolerate afternoon shade. In summer, water weekly for best and most consistent bloom.
After their blooms are spent and birds have finished picking over the seed, trim the flower stems back to the base.
Asters make a good addition to mixed perennial beds alongside coneflowers and black-eyed Susans as well as in the front of mixed flower borders. (I use them as a companion plant for roses.) They’ll also grow in containers. Another plus: They’re deer resistant.
For more on aster care: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/aster/
China asters
Growing in popularity – especially in the floral trade – are China asters (Callistephus chinensis). Unlike our native asters, these are annuals planted from seed each spring. Due to aster blight (a fungal disease), they need strict crop rotation and can’t be planted in the same spot two years in a row.
China asters look like over-sized versions of their perennial counterparts; their flowers are much bigger with blooms 3 to 4 inches across. They come in several flower forms from traditional daisy looks with bright yellow centers and scores of petals to fluffy peony or curvy chrysanthemum shapes. They also push asters’ color range with shades of yellow and true red in addition to the pink, blue and purple hues.
China asters are made for the vase with strong straight stems. They also tend to have fewer flowers per stem. (Some only have one.) The plants grow 2 to 3 feet tall but need support for those heavy flower heads.
Because they’re so popular with florists, several hybrid China asters have been developed for California growers with seed readily available via mail order. Among the best is ‘Giants of California,’ a hybrid that offers giant 4-inch daisy-like flowers in shades of pink, magenta, lavender and purple. It was specifically bred for flower farmers in Santa Maria Valley.
Like other cut flowers, they tend to be fast growers and heavy feeders, which means they appreciate loamy soil, extra compost and additional water. Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy.
For more on China asters: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/callistephus-chinensis/
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
Sept. 1: Yarrow an easy-care, sturdy flowering plant
Aug. 25: Crape myrtles, Sacramento's unofficial tree of summer
Aug. 18: Pollinators adore scabiosa, aka pincushion flower
Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact
Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower
July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show
July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)
July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy
July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies
June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden
June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Aug. 30
Enjoy this mild late-summer weather – and get to work!
* September starts another season in the vegetable garden. Now is the time to plant for fall. The warm soil will get these veggies off to a fast start.
* Keep harvesting tomatoes, peppers, squash, melons and eggplant.
* Compost annuals and vegetable crops that have finished producing.
* Cultivate and add compost to the soil to replenish its nutrients for fall and winter vegetables and flowers.
* Fertilize deciduous fruit trees.
* Plant onions, lettuce, peas, radishes, turnips, beets, carrots, bok choy, spinach and potatoes directly into the vegetable beds.
* Transplant cabbage, broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower as well as lettuce seedlings.
* Sow seeds of California poppies, clarkia and African daisies. Transplant cool-weather annuals such as pansies, violas, fairy primroses, calendulas, stocks and snapdragons.
* Divide and replant bulbs, rhizomes and perennials.
* Dig up and divide daylilies as they complete their bloom cycle.
* Divide and transplant peonies that have become overcrowded. Replant with “eyes” about an inch below the soil surface.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Add asparagus to your edible garden
Soggy soil and what to do about it
Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
We don't talk (enough) about beets
Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Enhance your food with edible flowers
Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
How to grow summer salad greens
Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
Help pollinators help your garden
Battling early-season tomato pests
Where are the bees when you need them?
How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
Grow culinary herbs in containers
When to plant summer vegetables
Don't be fooled by these garden myths
Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth