This fast-growing annual makes a big impact in the garden and in the vase
The Autumn Beauty sunflower is an excellent cut flower with strong stems. It is also a favorite of bees. Debbie Arrington
This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, dedicated to blooming plants.
Sunflowers are sprouting throughout my almost-summer garden. Thank the birds.
This fast-growing annual is a favorite of feathered friends (and they tend to spread the seeds around). Sunflowers can help fight pests, too.
Sacramento enjoys (at least) two crops of sunflowers. Seeds planted in late winter or early spring (or leftover by the birds) produce June blooms and July seeds. Another round can be planted in late summer or early fall to produce blooms for Halloween and Thanksgiving.
Quick-maturing varieties can be planted as late as October in Sacramento to produce blooms by New Year’s Day. (Their only limitation: They can’t take hard frost.)
And they also can be planted any time in between (such as right now), as long as they receive sufficient irrigation. Sunflowers are one bloom that truly thrives in our heat.
We Sacramentans love sunflowers, probably because sunflowers love Sacramento and the Central Valley. Yolo County produces much of the nation’s hybrid sunflower seed – not to eat, but to grow (often just for their flowers).
In fact, sunflowers have become one of the top three commercial florist flowers worldwide. Because they’re annuals, they grow quickly; that means their cost per stem is generally lower than roses, carnations, mums or other staples (that are produced by shrubs or perennials). Customers love sunflowers for their cheerful look, long vase life and big impact in a vase.
The most popular florist sunflowers include ProCut series (ProCut Orange, ProCut White, etc.) and the Vincent’s Series (Vincent’s Choice, Vincent’s Fresh, etc.). They produce uniform, upward-facing blooms with strong stems.
Most florist sunflowers have no pollen. That’s good for the florists (less mess), but bad for bees and other beneficial insects that depend on pollen as well as birds. (No pollen means no seeds.)
To support wildlife, choose sunflower varieties with pollen and seeds, preferably with multi-stems (and multiple flowerheads) and oil-rich seeds.
Black Oil or Common Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) is a favorite of small birds; it has thin shells that are easy to break. Black Russian and Mammoth Russian produce loads of oil-rich seeds for bigger birds (and people, too).
A favorite of bees, Autumn Beauty is a late-season sunflower that goes far beyond basic gold. Growing 4 to 6 feet tall, this branching variety matures in 70 to 80 days with flowers in six to seven weeks. An excellent cut flower with strong stems, the large zinnia-like blooms are often bicolor in shades of bright yellow, dark gold, orange, rich bronze and even purple. The flowers are rich in nectar, feeding pollinators.
When planted in summer, sunflower seeds sprout rapidly in warm soil. Plant seed about 1 inch deep and keep evenly moist; the better the soil, the faster they’ll grow. Irrigate sunflowers as you would tomatoes or other summer crops (about 5 gallons of water per plant per week).
Several varieties (particularly the Russian strains) grow very tall, often topping 10 feet. These plants become garden sentinels, attracting a few pests as well as wildlife. That’s another asset.
Some pests (such as marmorated stink bugs) like to lay their eggs on the underside of sunflowers’ big leaves. That trait actually makes them easier to find and control. Periodically, check the underside of leaves. If you see bad bug eggs, cut off the leaf (eggs and all) and destroy it. Bugs be gone.
(Birds also are aware of these bug nurseries. That’s why you’ll often see small finches or other birds pecking around the sunflower leaves, sometimes leaving small tears or holes in the foliage.)
Most sunflowers mature in under 100 days; that’s not the time to produce flowers, but to form dried seed. A seed-packed sunflower head is ready to cut when the back of the flower head turns yellow to brown, the petals shrivel and the head droops forward, due to the heavy seeds.
You also can tell they’re ready to pick by the increased bird activity around your sunflowers. To keep the seeds for yourself to eat (or to plant next year), place a large paper grocery bag over the ripe head and secure with string around the stem. Then, cut the stem and let the flower head dry inside the bag in a cool dark place. The seeds will drop into the bottom of the bag for easy collection.
As a cut flower, sunflowers offer a quick return on any time or effort. Sunflower blooms often appear in 50 to 60 days and branching varieties keep producing more flowers for at least another month, depending on the variety. Planted now, your sunflowers will provide bouquets in time for August.
And with the birds’ help, they’ll be back next summer, too.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of May 31
Remember to water early. No more rain is in the immediate forecast.
* It’s not too late to transplant tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or other summer favorites. Make sure they stay hydrated.
* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.
* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.
* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias.
* It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.
* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.
* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.
* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.
* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.
* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.
* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.
* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.
* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.
* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.
* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth