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FLIMBY: Sunflowers capture Sacramento’s summer attitude

This fast-growing annual makes a big impact in the garden and in the vase

The Autumn Beauty sunflower is an excellent cut flower with strong stems. It is also a favorite of bees.

The Autumn Beauty sunflower is an excellent cut flower with strong stems. It is also a favorite of bees. Debbie Arrington

This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, dedicated to blooming plants.

Sunflowers are sprouting throughout my almost-summer garden. Thank the birds.

This fast-growing annual is a favorite of feathered friends (and they tend to spread the seeds around). Sunflowers can help fight pests, too.

Sacramento enjoys (at least) two crops of sunflowers. Seeds planted in late winter or early spring (or leftover by the birds) produce June blooms and July seeds. Another round can be planted in late summer or early fall to produce blooms for Halloween and Thanksgiving.

Quick-maturing varieties can be planted as late as October in Sacramento to produce blooms by New Year’s Day. (Their only limitation: They can’t take hard frost.)

Light yellow sunflower
The Lemon Girl sunflower is attractive outside
on its stem or indoors in a vase.

And they also can be planted any time in between (such as right now), as long as they receive sufficient irrigation. Sunflowers are one bloom that truly thrives in our heat.

We Sacramentans love sunflowers, probably because sunflowers love Sacramento and the Central Valley. Yolo County produces much of the nation’s hybrid sunflower seed – not to eat, but to grow (often just for their flowers).

In fact, sunflowers have become one of the top three commercial florist flowers worldwide. Because they’re annuals, they grow quickly; that means their cost per stem is generally lower than roses, carnations, mums or other staples (that are produced by shrubs or perennials). Customers love sunflowers for their cheerful look, long vase life and big impact in a vase.

The most popular florist sunflowers include ProCut series (ProCut Orange, ProCut White, etc.) and the Vincent’s Series (Vincent’s Choice, Vincent’s Fresh, etc.). They produce uniform, upward-facing blooms with strong stems.

Most florist sunflowers have no pollen. That’s good for the florists (less mess), but bad for bees and other beneficial insects that depend on pollen as well as birds. (No pollen means no seeds.)

To support wildlife, choose sunflower varieties with pollen and seeds, preferably with multi-stems (and multiple flowerheads) and oil-rich seeds.

Black Oil or Common Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) is a favorite of small birds; it has thin shells that are easy to break. Black Russian and Mammoth Russian produce loads of oil-rich seeds for bigger birds (and people, too).

A favorite of bees, Autumn Beauty is a late-season sunflower that goes far beyond basic gold. Growing 4 to 6 feet tall, this branching variety matures in 70 to 80 days with flowers in six to seven weeks. An excellent cut flower with strong stems, the large zinnia-like blooms are often bicolor in shades of bright yellow, dark gold, orange, rich bronze and even purple. The flowers are rich in nectar, feeding pollinators.

When planted in summer, sunflower seeds sprout rapidly in warm soil. Plant seed about 1 inch deep and keep evenly moist; the better the soil, the faster they’ll grow. Irrigate sunflowers as you would tomatoes or other summer crops (about 5 gallons of water per plant per week).

Several varieties (particularly the Russian strains) grow very tall, often topping 10 feet. These plants become garden sentinels, attracting a few pests as well as wildlife. That’s another asset.

Some pests (such as marmorated stink bugs) like to lay their eggs on the underside of sunflowers’ big leaves. That trait actually makes them easier to find and control. Periodically, check the underside of leaves. If you see bad bug eggs, cut off the leaf (eggs and all) and destroy it. Bugs be gone.

(Birds also are aware of these bug nurseries. That’s why you’ll often see small finches or other birds pecking around the sunflower leaves, sometimes leaving small tears or holes in the foliage.)

Most sunflowers mature in under 100 days; that’s not the time to produce flowers, but to form dried seed. A seed-packed sunflower head is ready to cut when the back of the flower head turns yellow to brown, the petals shrivel and the head droops forward, due to the heavy seeds.

Bees on sunflower
Classic sunflowers, with a large surface for pollen,
attract bees who can easily become covered in it.

You also can tell they’re ready to pick by the increased bird activity around your sunflowers. To keep the seeds for yourself to eat (or to plant next year), place a large paper grocery bag over the ripe head and secure with string around the stem. Then, cut the stem and let the flower head dry inside the bag in a cool dark place. The seeds will drop into the bottom of the bag for easy collection.

As a cut flower, sunflowers offer a quick return on any time or effort. Sunflower blooms often appear in 50 to 60 days and branching varieties keep producing more flowers for at least another month, depending on the variety. Planted now, your sunflowers will provide bouquets in time for August.

And with the birds’ help, they’ll be back next summer, too.

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Find our summer recipes here!

Garden checklist for week of July 12

Get out early in the morning to take care of garden chores. Temperatures are expected to stay below 80 degrees before 10 a.m.

* Remember to water early and deep; your garden depends on you.

* It’s not too late to add a splash of color. Plant petunias, snapdragons, zinnias and marigolds.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, winter squash and sunflowers.

* Keep your vegetable garden watered, mulched and weeded. Water before 8 a.m. to reduce the chance of fungal infection and to conserve moisture.

* Water before fertilizing vegetables and blooming annuals, perennials and shrubs to give them a boost. Feeding flowering plants every other week will extend their bloom.

* Feed vegetable plants bone meal or other fertilizers high in phosphate to stimulate more blooms and fruiting.

* Don’t let tomatoes wilt or dry out completely. Give tomatoes a deep watering two to three times a week. Harvest vegetables promptly to encourage plants to produce more. Squash especially tends to grow rapidly in hot weather. Keep an eye on zucchini.

* If your melons and squash aren’t setting fruit, give the bees a hand. With a small, soft paintbrush, gather some pollen from male flowers, then brush it inside the female flowers, which have a tiny swelling at the base of their petals. (That's the embryo melon or squash.) Within days, that little swelling should start growing.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushy plants and more flowers in September.

* Remove spent flowers from roses, daylilies and other bloomers as they finish flowering.

* Pinch off blooms from basil so the plant will grow more leaves.

* Cut back lavender after flowering to promote a second bloom.

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Taste Fall! E-cookbook

Muffins and pumpkin

Find our fall recipes here!

Taste Winter! E-cookbook

Lemon coconut pancakes

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth