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FLIMBY: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties

Shasta daisy a California creation embraced by flower fans

Hardy, cheerful Shasta daisies are the product of a quadruple hybridization.

Hardy, cheerful Shasta daisies are the product of a quadruple hybridization. Kathy Morrison

This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, devoted to blooming plants.

Shasta daisies would not exist without Luther Burbank.

The horticulturalist and famed plant breeder succeeded in creating a sturdy, free-blooming daisy with a large flower and -- the final element he achieved -- pure white petals. He named the plant after our own snow-covered Mount Shasta. 

The folks at the Luther Burbank Home and Gardens in Santa Rosa document the work that went into creating this garden favorite. You can read about it here, but basically he started with the oxeye daisies (Leucanthemum vulgare) that grew wild in his childhood home in Massachusetts. Those flowers had been brought to North America by the Pilgrims.

That flower was bred with the English field daisy (Leucanthemum maximum). The best of these flowers were crossed with the Portuguese field daisy (Leucanthemum lacustre). Finally, these triple hybrids were crossed with the Japanese field daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum), a species with small, pure white flowers.  When the new plants were bred with each other, the flowers produced the pure white he was looking for.

The introduction of the Shasta daisy in 1901 was the culmination of 17 years of research. Now officially called Leucanthemum x superbum., the  Shasta daisy has many cultivars developed over the years. Some are more compact than others, but they all have the large flowers on clumping plants that make them a garden and cut-flower favorite.

Shasta daisies can be grown from seeds, and transplants are readily available at nurseries. But perhaps the best way to acquire a plant is to know a gardener who already grows it. Shasta daisies need to be divided every two or three years to stay vigorous, so they are easy to share. (My plant traces its roots back a couple generations to a friend's mother's home in Belmont.)

That transplant or divided plant needs full sun and well-drained soil, with adequate space, since it can grow up to 4 feet tall and 2 feet wide, depending on the cultivar. Shasta daisies can do well in a raised bed, at the front of a border, or in a large container. What they won't tolerate is soggy soil.

In our 9b climate, Shasta daisies planted in the fall can be expected to bloom next year. If planted in spring, they may put all their energy into root development and not bloom until the following year. Once flowers appear, keep them deadheaded to continue those glorious blooms.

After flowering is done for the season, cut the plant back to just above the leaves at the base. It can be divided in late fall or early spring.

If you'd like to get Shasta daisies or other Burbank plants from the source (plus want to take a cool field trip), Burbank's Experiment Farm in Sebastopol includes a nursery. Details are here.

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Find our summer recipes here!

Garden checklist for week of July 19

Remember to water early and deeply; your garden depends on you.

* It’s not too late to add a splash of color. Plant petunias, snapdragons, zinnias and marigolds.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, winter squash and sunflowers.

* Keep your vegetable garden watered, mulched and weeded. Water before 8 a.m. to reduce the chance of fungal infection and to conserve moisture.

* Water, then fertilize vegetables and blooming annuals, perennials and shrubs to give them a boost.

*Fertilizing flowering plants every other week will extend their bloom. Give vegetable plants bone meal or other fertilizers high in phosphate to stimulate more blooms and fruiting.

* Don’t let tomatoes wilt or dry out completely. Give tomatoes a deep watering two to three times a week. Harvest vegetables promptly to encourage plants to produce more. Squash especially tends to grow rapidly in hot weather. Keep an eye on zucchini.

* If your melons and squash aren’t setting fruit, give the bees a hand. With a small, soft paintbrush, gather some pollen from male flowers, then brush it inside the female flowers, which have a tiny swelling at the base of their petals. (That's the embryo melon or squash.) Within days, that little swelling should start growing.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushy plants and more flowers in September.

* Remove spent flowers from roses, daylilies and other bloomers as they finish flowering.

* Pinch off blooms from basil so the plant will grow more leaves. New leaves have the best flavor.

* Cut back lavender after flowering to promote a second bloom.

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Muffins and pumpkin

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Taste Winter! E-cookbook

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth