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FIMBY: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

Spend at least a few minutes daily observing -- and responding

Red Norland potatoes, planted about 10 weeks ago, are indicating by their yellowing leaf color that harvest time is approaching.

Red Norland potatoes, planted about 10 weeks ago, are indicating by their yellowing leaf color that harvest time is approaching. Kathy Morrison

Some advice I received as a new parent (many years ago) has been remarkably useful with my garden as well:

"No one knows your own (child/garden) as well as you do."

In other words, a person may be new to parenting, but no one has observed and responded to that particular baby quite as much and quite as closely as the parent has.

By the same token, a new gardener still has the best information on their own garden, even if it's "I was given a secondhand planter, filled it with XYZ potting soil and Genovese basil seeds, and set it on the south-facing patio. I water it every other day."

There's knowledge already in that statement. But for gardening success, the knowledge must grow -- and that means paying attention to what's going on. Even 5 minutes of observation every morning -- to check whether those basil seeds are germinating, need more water, getting too much sun -- builds a body of experience.

Experimenting builds the knowledge too. Having grown Genovese basil, the gardener might try Purple Ruffles basil or Cardinal basil or African blue basil. Eventually, the gardener becomes an expert on their micro-micro-climate and crop. Such as "Basil does great in containers on the patio, but should be planted by early May. "

The next step is applying skepticism to planting charts and calendars (which are based on averages, after all) and responding to the plants themselves. This will be based on the earlier knowledge, plus experience with local weather and other conditions. "Hmm, the Genovese is flowering sooner than usual. I wonder if it's heat-stressed and needs a different location?"

A friend who is an expert at growing garlic recently noted that one of his two varieties is already near harvest time: The leaves are turning yellow and are starting to collapse. He's not going to ignore that just because the calendar says it's too early. (June typically is harvest time for garlic planted in October.) For whatever reason, that garlic wants to be ready now.

The Red Norland potatoes I planted the first week of March are another case in point. They are in two large cloth grow bags of identical color, with identical soil and the same watering schedule -- and the bags are just a few feet apart in the backyard. Neither one has flowered. Yet plants in one of the bags are turning yellow, indicating potato harvest time is soon. The other has no yellow leaves. At all. But there's no reason to wait until the second bag is ready to harvest everything.

Tomatoes amaze me every year at how they respond to the weather and the slight changes in planting location. I typically start my plants from seed. One year Lemon Boy is the star, producing twice as many fruit as any of the others, and the next year it's just OK. I don't always know why, but I enjoy observing the season play out. And I make notes for next year. 

As a side note, I recommend that gardeners -- of edible plants, especially -- keep a notebook or journal of some kind, to record events in the garden. Knowing next year that the Red Norlands were early in 2025 might convince me to plant them earlier or later, or plant another variety altogether. All part of being a gardener and citizen scientist!

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Garden Checklist for week of June 15

Make the most of this “average” weather; your garden is growing fast! (So are the weeds!)

* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.

* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don’t let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.

* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

* Pull weeds before they go to seed.

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the wee hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather. It also helps smother weeds.

* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

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