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FIMBY: Maintain moisture for garden success

Mulch works magic – and get free mulch at upcoming event

Straw is a common and easy mulch for vegetable gardens. It's prepped here for recently planted pumpkin seeds. Tabby cat mulch, however, is rarer and harder to control -- don't look for it at the Mulch Mayhem event.

Straw is a common and easy mulch for vegetable gardens. It's prepped here for recently planted pumpkin seeds. Tabby cat mulch, however, is rarer and harder to control -- don't look for it at the Mulch Mayhem event. Kathy Morrison

This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, dedicated to edible gardening.

Our gardens are about to be tested. According to the National Weather Service, Sacramento will see high temperatures in the 90s by Friday (May 9); the “normal” high for this week is only 77 degrees. Accompanying that sudden heat is strong wind that can suck the moisture right out of leaves and soil.

That rapid warm-up can be disastrous to tender young transplants. They can go from lush and green to parched and brown over one hot weekend.

Plants need moisture in the soil in order to access nutrients. If there’s no available water in the surrounding soil, the roots will pull water from the rest of the plant. The foliage will turn crisp and look burned.

Once they hit that stage, there's no bringing back those leaves (clip them off or let them fall), but the plant itself can be saved – if it gets water before the roots dry out, too.

But why put your plants through so much stress? Don’t let them totally dry out in the first place.

This is particularly vital with fast-growing vegetables such as tomatoes and squash. Maintaining even and consistent soil moisture helps a plant grow at a consistent rate. It also helps prevent blossom end rot, a common problem in tomatoes, peppers and eggplant.

Think of it as the Goldilocks Zone; keep soil not soggy, not bone dry, but just right.

What’s just right? Grab a fistful and squeeze; it should clump together in your hand. If the dirt just crumbles through your fingers, that soil needs water.

Or try sticking a screw driver into the ground; if it can’t go down 6 inches, that soil is too dry and hard.

For a more accurate measurement, use a moisture meter. Simple and cheap, these meters work like an instant-read thermometer – stick it in the ground and see the result.

Once you find the Goldilocks Zone, how do you maintain it? With mulch.

A blanket of organic material – straw, dried leaves, wood chips, ground bark, etc. – helps keep soil moist. Water doesn’t evaporate as quickly (which saves water, too). As they break down, these organic mulches gradually add nutrients to soil, too.

Organic mulch also helps regulate soil temperature, keeping it several degrees cooler during hot summer days and making roots comfortable.

Mulch had another benefit: It smothers weeds. That cuts down on work and saves gardening time.

Wood chips and other mulches may pull some nutrients out of the soil as they start to break down. To balance out that process, put down a thin layer (about an inch) of aged compost and then top with 2 to 3 inches of mulch. That double layer not only maintains moisture and soil temperature, but adds extra nutrients, too – making the mulch even more effective.

When applying mulch, don’t let it mound around stems, crowns or trunks; that can hold in too much moisture and lead to crown rot or plant disease. (This is especially true for trees and shrubs.) Instead, make a little mulch-free circle – about 4 to 6 inches – around the plant.

Need mulch? You’re in luck! Mulch Mayhem is Saturday, May 17.

Coordinated by the Regional Water Authority and local water providers, this one-day event offers free mulch to local residents. Attendees can pick up one cubic yard of mulch – mostly fresh wood chips – per household at participating locations throughout Sacramento and Placer counties. Supplies are limited; plan on arriving early.

Set for 8 a.m to noon May 17, the free mulch will be available at locations in Sacramento, Rocklin, Roseville and Carmichael. Bring a shovel, bags or tarps, and the means to haul your mulch away. For full details and locations, go to BeWaterSmart.info/mulch-mayhem.

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Flowers in My Back Yard Series

Aug. 18: Pollinators adore scabiosa, aka pincushion flower

Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact

Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower

July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show

July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)

July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy

July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies

June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden

June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners

June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)

June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself

June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude

May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?

May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs

May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power

May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens

May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend

April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look

April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower

April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact

April 7: Calendulas do double duty

April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come

March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)

March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots

March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums

March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come

March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy

Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?

Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come

Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers

Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses

Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?

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Garden checklist for week of Aug. 16

During this break in the heat, feed your garden. Make sure to water before and after applying fertilizer.

* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips.

* Plant potatoes.

* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers. Also, give them a boost with phosphate-rich fertilizer to help fruiting.

* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.

* Feed citrus trees their last round of fertilizer for the year. This will give a boost to the fruit that’s still small.

* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don't let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.

* Camellia leaves looking a little yellow? Give them some chelated iron. That goes for azaleas and gardenias, too.

* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot. Then feed fruit trees with slow-release fertilizer for better production for next year.

* To prolong bloom into fall, feed begonias, fuchsias and container plants. Always water before fertilizing.

* Fertilize fall-blooming perennials, too. Chrysanthemums can be fed until the buds start to open.

* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials, then give them a boost of fertilizer. Make sure to water plants before feeding. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.

* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.

* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Add asparagus to your edible garden

Soggy soil and what to do about it

Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Change is in the autumn air 

We don't talk (enough) about beets

Fava beans do double duty

Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Time to shut it down? 

How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

: Put worms to work for you

Grow food while saving water

Enhance your food with edible flowers

Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

Does this plant need water?

 Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

How to grow summer salad greens

 Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

Help pollinators help your garden

Battling early-season tomato pests

Make your own compost

Where are the bees when you need them?

How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

Grow culinary herbs in containers

When to plant summer vegetables

Don't be fooled by these garden myths

Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth