Mulch works magic – and get free mulch at upcoming event
Straw is a common and easy mulch for vegetable gardens. It's prepped here for recently planted pumpkin seeds. Tabby cat mulch, however, is rarer and harder to control -- don't look for it at the Mulch Mayhem event. Kathy Morrison
This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, dedicated to edible gardening.
Our gardens are about to be tested. According to the National Weather Service, Sacramento will see high temperatures in the 90s by Friday (May 9); the “normal” high for this week is only 77 degrees. Accompanying that sudden heat is strong wind that can suck the moisture right out of leaves and soil.
That rapid warm-up can be disastrous to tender young transplants. They can go from lush and green to parched and brown over one hot weekend.
Plants need moisture in the soil in order to access nutrients. If there’s no available water in the surrounding soil, the roots will pull water from the rest of the plant. The foliage will turn crisp and look burned.
Once they hit that stage, there's no bringing back those leaves (clip them off or let them fall), but the plant itself can be saved – if it gets water before the roots dry out, too.
But why put your plants through so much stress? Don’t let them totally dry out in the first place.
This is particularly vital with fast-growing vegetables such as tomatoes and squash. Maintaining even and consistent soil moisture helps a plant grow at a consistent rate. It also helps prevent blossom end rot, a common problem in tomatoes, peppers and eggplant.
Think of it as the Goldilocks Zone; keep soil not soggy, not bone dry, but just right.
What’s just right? Grab a fistful and squeeze; it should clump together in your hand. If the dirt just crumbles through your fingers, that soil needs water.
Or try sticking a screw driver into the ground; if it can’t go down 6 inches, that soil is too dry and hard.
For a more accurate measurement, use a moisture meter. Simple and cheap, these meters work like an instant-read thermometer – stick it in the ground and see the result.
Once you find the Goldilocks Zone, how do you maintain it? With mulch.
A blanket of organic material – straw, dried leaves, wood chips, ground bark, etc. – helps keep soil moist. Water doesn’t evaporate as quickly (which saves water, too). As they break down, these organic mulches gradually add nutrients to soil, too.
Organic mulch also helps regulate soil temperature, keeping it several degrees cooler during hot summer days and making roots comfortable.
Mulch had another benefit: It smothers weeds. That cuts down on work and saves gardening time.
Wood chips and other mulches may pull some nutrients out of the soil as they start to break down. To balance out that process, put down a thin layer (about an inch) of aged compost and then top with 2 to 3 inches of mulch. That double layer not only maintains moisture and soil temperature, but adds extra nutrients, too – making the mulch even more effective.
When applying mulch, don’t let it mound around stems, crowns or trunks; that can hold in too much moisture and lead to crown rot or plant disease. (This is especially true for trees and shrubs.) Instead, make a little mulch-free circle – about 4 to 6 inches – around the plant.
Need mulch? You’re in luck! Mulch Mayhem is Saturday, May 17.
Coordinated by the Regional Water Authority and local water providers, this one-day event offers free mulch to local residents. Attendees can pick up one cubic yard of mulch – mostly fresh wood chips – per household at participating locations throughout Sacramento and Placer counties. Supplies are limited; plan on arriving early.
Set for 8 a.m to noon May 17, the free mulch will be available at locations in Sacramento, Rocklin, Roseville and Carmichael. Bring a shovel, bags or tarps, and the means to haul your mulch away. For full details and locations, go to BeWaterSmart.info/mulch-mayhem.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
WINTER:
Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18
Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!
* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.
* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.
* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.
* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.
* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.
* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.
* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.
* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.
* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.
* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.
* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.
* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.
* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com