Easy to grow, these annuals love our weather
Large bright zinnias are butterfly magnets in summer. The flowers are among the easiest to grow from seed. Kathy Morrison
This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, dedicated to blooming plants.
Is summer really summer without zinnias?
These annuals provide bursts of bright color during hot months when nearly everything seems to be sagging in the heat. They're also very popular with bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.
As a bonus, zinnias are very easy to grow from seed. And once established, they are drought- and heat-tolerant.
The plants come in several sizes, from 12 inches to 4 feet tall, with blooms ranging from 1 inch wide to 5-plus inches across.
The one thing they all need is a sunny spot -- 6 to 8 hours of sun per day. Decent to excellent soil helps, too. Zinnias do not like moisture on their leaves -- it promotes powdery mildew -- so be sure to water them at ground level.
All but the shortest zinnias are ideal cut flowers. They are true "cut and come again" plants, producing more blooms the more they are clipped.
The next few weeks are perfect for starting zinnias, since we should have a long run of dry days once the plants have emerged. Newly planted seeds do need warm, moist soil to germinate, which may be the only tough part about growing them. They'll produce reliably until early fall or even later, depending on temperature levels -- frost will finish them off.
Below is a look at various types of zinnias, from biggest to smallest, with types to fit in any size garden.
-- Giants, with 5-inch blossoms, 4-foot-tall stems, ideal for cutting. Look for Benary's Giant, California Giant or State Fair varieties. These are my favorites, especially those that produce the fully double dahlia-type blooms. You want color? Try yellow, apricot, coral, peach, orange, red, pink, fuchsia, red violet, white and even (light) green.
-- Large, with 4 to 5 inch blooms, slightly shorter than the giants, but also good cutting flowers. These include the skinny-petaled "cactus" blooms as well as the flatter daisy-type blossoms. The "Peppermint Stick" two-color speckled zinnias are fun to grow. The Queeny series, which is relatively new, has some spectacular color combinations.
A tip for supporting these two types of larger plants, which can get top heavy by late summer: Place unused tomato cages over the plants just as they reach about 1 foot tall, then let them grow up and through the cages.
-- Zinderella. Frillier than the largest varieties, these zinnias resemble scabiosa (pincushion) flowers. They grow 25 to 30 inches tall, with a mix of double and single blooms about 2 to 2-1/2 inches wide. Gorgeous colors, especially the pastels.
-- Thumbelina. These have 2-inch semi-double to double flowers on 12- to 18-inch stems. They have as many colors as the larger flowers, but don't take up as much room. Great in containers or grown in front of the larger zinnias.
-- Profusion and Zahara varieties. With 1-inch flowers and a bushy plant habit, these 12-inch plants are perfect for containers or front-of-the-bed color. They need less deadheading than the large flowers. These zinnias can be readily found as transplants at most nurseries. Look for the two-color blooms -- they are striking.
Favorite zinnia seed growers include Renee's Garden, Botanical Interests and Eden Brothers. Renee's, which is California-based, has especially nice blends of zinnia colors. The "Moulin Rouge" blend of heirloom cutting zinnias, for instance, includes scarlet, true crimson and deep red shades, while the "Bling Bling" blend contains seeds for deep orange, bright yellow and red violet flowers.
Botanical Interests also does some excellent blends: The Key Lime blend has seeds for creamy white and lime green zinnias. Eden Brothers, while a little pricier, is a zinnia grower's dream, with dozens of sizes and blends.
Curious to know which zinnia is "Farmer Fred" Hoffman's favorite? He explores some of the award winners among zinnias, too. Read his recent Beyond the Garden Basics column here.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
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Garden checklist for week of June 14
We'll be back to normal temperatures for mid-June (about 86 degrees) by Thursday. In the meanwhile:
* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.
* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.
* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.
* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.
* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.
* Avoid pot “hot feet.” Place a 1-inch-thick board under container plants sitting on pavement. This little cushion helps insulate them from radiated heat.
* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.
* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.
* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.
* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don't let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.
* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.
* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.
* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.
* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.
* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.
* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes. There’s still time to plant melons, pumpkins and squash from seed.
* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, bidens, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.
Contact Us
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth