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FLIMBY: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners

Bright flowers are drought-tolerant sun lovers

Put gazanias where they receive plenty of sun and not too much water, and they'll reward you with blooms for years.

Put gazanias where they receive plenty of sun and not too much water, and they'll reward you with blooms for years. Kathy Morrison

This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, devoted to everything that blooms.

If gazanias didn't produce such nice flowers, they'd be considered a weed.

Orange and white gazanias
These gazanias show classic colorations.

Also called treasure flowers, gazanias grow in any soil, need little water, love sunshine, and bloom brightly from spring to fall. They also reseed easily, and if not deadheaded quickly the unattractive seed heads hang around too long.

They are great, in other words, for those hot corners of the garden where little else seems to grow, and where their post-bloom looks are less important. They are perennials in our region, so don't have to be replaced unless we get (increasingly unlikely) severe winter frosts.

Gazanias are not native to California -- they originated in South Africa -- but have adapted to our climate easily. Introduced as an ornamental, the gazania linearis is considered moderately invasive in some areas by Cal IPC, "escaping into creekside vegetation and into native grassland from plantings in San Francisco, Monterey, and Ventura counties, where it can form a dense groundcover and outcompete other species."

Members of the Asteraceae family, gazanias' daisy-like flowers are most often seen in yellows and oranges, but also include red, coral, white and violet, plus many combinations thereof. Petals can have a different color at the base, for instance, or a strip of color down the middle,  or both.

The plants form 12-inch-wide mounds, 6 to 10 inches tall. Some nurseries sell gazanias as ground cover, but they also work in containers and as borders in drier flower beds. The flowers close at night so they are not good cut flowers.

Gazanias are not especially attractive to the big pollinators, since they produce pollen but not nectar. Think small bees, not butterflies. On the flip side they don't have pest or disease problems in our region. Just don't plant them in locations where the soil will stay soggy.

Many gazanias
This raggedy bunch of gazanias planted 
themselves in a spot next to a sidewalk. They
could use some deadheading.

They do grow well from seed, maybe too well: I bought a pony pack of gazanias for my front yard probably 20 years ago. These days I have clumps in six different spots around the front area, and they are a multitude of colors -- I never know which color is going to show up next. At various times I've been ruthless about digging out larger clumps but most of the time I just let them live where they like.

Now that's the definition of an easy-care plant.

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Garden checklist for week of June 14

We'll be back to normal temperatures for mid-June (about 86 degrees) by Thursday. In the meanwhile:

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.

* Avoid pot “hot feet.” Place a 1-inch-thick board under container plants sitting on pavement. This little cushion helps insulate them from radiated heat.

* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.

* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don't let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes. There’s still time to plant melons, pumpkins and squash from seed.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, bidens, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth