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FIMBY: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Walking on or digging in muddy soil affects its structure, can harm plants

When your soil looks like this, don't walk on or dig in it. The pore spaces will be compacted, affecting soil structure and any plants neaby.

When your soil looks like this, don't walk on or dig in it. The pore spaces will be compacted, affecting soil structure and any plants neaby. Kathy Morrison

This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, devoted to edible gardening.

So here we are, in a long stretch of foggy, damp days, with flat gray skies. It hasn't rained since before Thanksgiving, yet everything is still so ... wet.

The leaves are damp, the air is misty, and the soil -- especially any clay soil -- has not dried much since the rains, sticking together like wet adobe for bricks.

Clay's moisture-holding property is valuable for our gardens, keeping roots nourished during our hot, dry summers. (Remember those?)

But now, under these weather conditions, that clay seems like it will be squishy forever.

Here are some things to do and not to do with your saturated soil:

-- First, don't walk on or roll anything heavy across planting areas. Stick to paths or stepstones. Walking on wet soil compacts the soil's pore spaces, squeezing out oxygen, which plants' roots need for growth. The compacted spaces don't pop back like a sponge -- they stay squished or absent. Roots are prevented from spreading. And any subsequent rainfall or irrigation has no place to go, pooling at the site or running off.

The University of California Integrated Pest Management system calls this situation "aeration deficit." They warn, "Insufficient soil oxygen, excess soil moisture, and root decay pathogens often act in combination to damage or kill plants." This can include trees, too, though that may be a slow process.

In severe cases, anaerobic soil will smell like rotten eggs and/or have a blue-gray cast.

-- As a corollary to this, don't dig in saturated soil, either. This also will affect the structure. If you have plants that need to move out of their nursery containers, transplant them temporarily into larger containers, then plan where they will go in spring.

-- If you have summer plants such as tomatoes that are finally finished, lop the stems or stalks off at the soil line, without disturbing the roots and the soil microorganisms.

-- Take note of where garden drainage needs improvement. This long after rain, puddles or sticky muddy spots should not be evident in the garden. If they are present, it's a signal that the site has poor drainage, and most plants will struggle there.

-- Mulch, aged compost or worm castings can be spread on the soil now, but don't dig it in under these wet conditions. (And keep it away from stems or tree trunks.) These toppings will eventually work into the soil, improving it. Additional soil amendments can wait until preparation for spring planting. Put reminders now on a 2026 calendar.

More information on soil problems and soil improvement can be found at these websites:

-- Sacramento master gardeners' page on Soil, with links to several articles, including one on improving clay soil.

-- UC IPM page on aeration deficit.

-- UC IPM on providing for roots.

Napa County master gardener Janice Mathews has an excellent recent article on healthy soil in the Napa County Times, which is carried by our mutual portal,  California Local. Find the link to her article on the left side of the home page.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

WINTER:

Jan. 20: Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth

WINTER

March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds

March 4: Potatoes from the garden

Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space

Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting

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Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18

Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!

* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.

* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.

* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.

* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.

* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.

* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.

* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.

* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.

* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.

* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.

* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.

* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.

* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.

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