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FLIMBY: Keep camellias happy for years to come

This winter-flowering shrub is perfect for Sacramento

Camellias grow well in Sacramento in the shade, under the protection of our tree canopy. These beauties were found blooming in Midtown.

Camellias grow well in Sacramento in the shade, under the protection of our tree canopy. These beauties were found blooming in Midtown. Kathy Morrison

This is another installment in our new Flowers in My Back Yard series, dedicated to blooming plants.

Sacramento is the Camellia City for a reason; camellias love it here.

And Sacramento gardeners tend to love camellias. More evidence of that mutual adoration was on display this past weekend (March 7 and 8) during the 102nd annual Sacramento Camellia Show.

More than 1,000 camellia lovers wandered through the Scottish Rite Center, which was packed with all things camellia, including hundreds of exhibition blooms – and hundreds of plants to take home.

Presented by the Camellia Society of Sacramento, the floral display proved particularly remarkable due to the weather challenges leading up to the show, the nation’s largest of its kind.

After blooming as much as three weeks early, local camellias got pelted by cold rain (and even hail), whipped by strong winds, then toasted by unusually warm days. Those conditions could mean no flowers for show weekend.

But growers still had enough blooms left to fill the auditorium’s tables – because camellias are resilient, too.

That resilience helps camellia plants survive (and hopefully thrive) for decades with little attention.

The one thing they need for success: The right location.

Naturally slow-growing, camellias need to be planted (or potted) in the right place – dappled shade with excellent drainage. They require just enough sun to bloom their best, but not so much that their foliage burns. They hate standing in water (which can make some clay soils problematic), but they love loamy soil on the dry and acidic side.

Such planting sites mimic their native habitat as under-story shrubs – growing under the dappled shade of big trees in Asian forests. Camellias are probably their happiest growing under a pine or redwood.

When planting, position the camellia so its crown (where the main stalk comes together with the roots, usually the soil line) sits about an inch above surrounding soil; that will help promote drainage.

Late winter or early spring (as in now) is the best time to plant camellias – including those plants that you may have bought at the Sacramento show. Camellias are also available at local nurseries.

Most of the camellias blooming now are Japonica varieties. December-blooming Sasanqua camellias (also known as Christmas camellias) can tolerate more sun, drought conditions and colder temperatures. Both species grow very slowly – and for a very long time. Healthy camellias can live for several decades (as evidenced by many local shrubs).

Japonica varieties need consistent soil moisture and appreciate mulch (such as pine needles or wood chips). Once established (a.k.a. well rooted in their planting site), they should be irrigated weekly during their growth period (spring after they bloom) and twice monthly year-round.

While they are blooming, pick up and dispose of the fallen flowers to help prevent petal blight, a fungal disease that turns camellia petals prematurely brown.

April is the best time to shape Japonica camellias, after they’ve finished their bloom cycle. As they finish flowering, prune camellias lightly to remove any dead wood or to gently shape. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter.

Then, feed with an acid-type fertilizer formulated for camellias, which prefer slightly acid soils.

Don’t feed camellias until after they finish blooming (usually in early March). Feeding while camellias are in bloom (or about to bloom) may cause them to drop unopened buds.

Want to learn more about camellias? Check out the Camellia Society of Sacramento, https://camelliasocietyofsacramento.org/.



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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth