First weeks of spring bring plenty of warm-season activity
Tomato transplants now are in good supply in local nurseries, but when should you plant? Kathy Morrison
This is another in our “Food in My Back Yard” series, dedicated to edible gardening.
April is Sacramento’s gardening sweet spot: The weather is just about perfect for being outdoors. In the vegetable garden, cool-season crops are nearing maturity while warm-season favorites are ready to plant.
Managing space in these overlapping seasons can feel like juggling reservations at a popular restaurant – everybody wants that same sunny spot.
Don’t push out the peas before they’re done just because some tomatoes are lined up to take their place. Those cool-season crops took weeks or months to get to this point; why pull them (and waste their potential produce) just to get an early start on something else?
Vegetables are more flexible than people. The whole summer garden doesn’t need to be planted in one April day. Instead, focus on windows of opportunity and succession.
Planning and patience are important gardening skills. Planning lets gardeners make the most of available opportunities. Patience lets nature take its course.
Weather will be the biggest variable in any vegetable garden. (The seed packet may say those radishes are ready to harvest in 40 days, but only if they got enough sun, warmth and water.) So, plan for that, too. That’s succession planting; for example, plant a row of radishes a week over four different weeks instead of planting the whole seed packet at once. Spreading out the planting dates lengthens the harvest as well as makes allowances for less than ideal weather.
The same goes with tomato transplants. Don’t plant them all on one day; stagger their transplants over several weeks – or even months.
Last year’s tomato crop served as interesting lesson about the importance of staggered planting times. In our community garden, the bulk of tomatoes were transplanted the last week of April – the traditional tomato transplanting time in Sacramento. But intense heat in early and mid May – just as those young bushes were flowering – dried up tomato pollen, so those plants set no fruit.
But bushes planted in early April and June had abundant tomatoes, because their flowers were able to pollinate when it wasn’t above 95 degrees.
In addition, bushes planted really, really late – after the Fourth of July – produced big crops in October and November, thanks to warm fall weather.
So much for only planting tomatoes the last week of April.
There are some basic guidelines about when to plant, thanks to ag science. Remember: Only use guidelines designed for where you garden.
For Sacramento County, UC researchers crunched the numbers from decades of harvests for 54 different vegetables. They boiled down those results to create a detailed “Sacramento Vegetable Planting Schedule.” Find it here.
According to these guidelines, tomatoes can be transplanted anytime from April 15 to June 30.
Veggies recommended to plant in mid to late April from seed: Lima and snap bean, carrots, celery, celeriac, Swiss chard, corn, cucumbers, collards, melons, okra, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash and watermelon. Transplants of tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and sweet potatoes can be set out in April, too.
And if the peas need more time, those veggies also can wait to be planted in May.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
WINTER:
Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18
Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!
* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.
* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.
* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.
* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.
* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.
* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.
* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.
* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.
* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.
* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.
* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.
* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.
* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.
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