First weeks of spring bring plenty of warm-season activity
Tomato transplants now are in good supply in local nurseries, but when should you plant? Kathy Morrison
This is another in our “Food in My Back Yard” series, dedicated to edible gardening.
April is Sacramento’s gardening sweet spot: The weather is just about perfect for being outdoors. In the vegetable garden, cool-season crops are nearing maturity while warm-season favorites are ready to plant.
Managing space in these overlapping seasons can feel like juggling reservations at a popular restaurant – everybody wants that same sunny spot.
Don’t push out the peas before they’re done just because some tomatoes are lined up to take their place. Those cool-season crops took weeks or months to get to this point; why pull them (and waste their potential produce) just to get an early start on something else?
Vegetables are more flexible than people. The whole summer garden doesn’t need to be planted in one April day. Instead, focus on windows of opportunity and succession.
Planning and patience are important gardening skills. Planning lets gardeners make the most of available opportunities. Patience lets nature take its course.
Weather will be the biggest variable in any vegetable garden. (The seed packet may say those radishes are ready to harvest in 40 days, but only if they got enough sun, warmth and water.) So, plan for that, too. That’s succession planting; for example, plant a row of radishes a week over four different weeks instead of planting the whole seed packet at once. Spreading out the planting dates lengthens the harvest as well as makes allowances for less than ideal weather.
The same goes with tomato transplants. Don’t plant them all on one day; stagger their transplants over several weeks – or even months.
Last year’s tomato crop served as interesting lesson about the importance of staggered planting times. In our community garden, the bulk of tomatoes were transplanted the last week of April – the traditional tomato transplanting time in Sacramento. But intense heat in early and mid May – just as those young bushes were flowering – dried up tomato pollen, so those plants set no fruit.
But bushes planted in early April and June had abundant tomatoes, because their flowers were able to pollinate when it wasn’t above 95 degrees.
In addition, bushes planted really, really late – after the Fourth of July – produced big crops in October and November, thanks to warm fall weather.
So much for only planting tomatoes the last week of April.
There are some basic guidelines about when to plant, thanks to ag science. Remember: Only use guidelines designed for where you garden.
For Sacramento County, UC researchers crunched the numbers from decades of harvests for 54 different vegetables. They boiled down those results to create a detailed “Sacramento Vegetable Planting Schedule.” Find it here.
According to these guidelines, tomatoes can be transplanted anytime from April 15 to June 30.
Veggies recommended to plant in mid to late April from seed: Lima and snap bean, carrots, celery, celeriac, Swiss chard, corn, cucumbers, collards, melons, okra, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash and watermelon. Transplants of tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and sweet potatoes can be set out in April, too.
And if the peas need more time, those veggies also can wait to be planted in May.
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Food in My Back Yard Series
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
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Garden Checklist for week of April 20
Before possible showers at the end of the week, take advantage of all this nice sunshine – and get to work!
* Set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.
* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, radishes and squash.
* Plant onion sets.
* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias.
* Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.
* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom.
* Plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.
* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.
* Smell orange blossoms? Feed citrus trees with a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants.
* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.
* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.
* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.
* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden is really hungry. Give shrubs and trees a dose of a slow-release fertilizer. Or mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost.
* Start thinning fruit that's formed on apple and stone fruit trees -- you'll get larger fruit at harvest (and avoid limb breakage) if some is thinned now. The UC recommendation is to thin fruit when it is about 3/4 of an inch in diameter. Peaches and nectarines should be thinned to about 6 inches apart; smaller fruit such as plums and pluots can be about 4 inches apart. Apricots can be left at 3 inches apart. Apples and pears should be thinned to one fruit per cluster of flowers, 6 to 8 inches apart.
* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.
* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.
* Weed, weed, weed! Don’t let unwanted plants go to seed.