Chard and heat-tolerant lettuce varieties offer crisp leaves during July and August
Chard can be grown virtually year-round in the Sacramento region, making it a good substitute for more heat-sensitive greens. This is the Vulcan variety. Kathy Morrison
This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series dedicated to edible gardening.
It’s summer salad season – just when lettuce tends to bolt in our climate. What are you supposed to mix with those newly ripe tomatoes?
Heat prompts lettuce and other traditional greens to go to seed (or bolt). Sensitive to higher temperatures, these leafy annuals use 90-degree days as a cue – it’s time to wrap this up and make seed! (It’s what nature intended.)
In addition, their tender leaves get thicker, tougher and often bitter; that thickness is another way to tolerate high heat, but not necessarily please people.
Most garden guides treat lettuces and other greens as cool-season only crops that can’t survive the stress of a Sacramento summer. What’s a salad-craving gardener to do?
Grow your salad in the shade. Instead of planting lettuce in full sun, put it in a pot on the north side of your house or in dappled shade under a tree. Move the plants around so they benefit from morning sun but are protected from afternoon scorching. Remember to water; don’t let greens dry out or their leaves will shrivel.
Look for heat-resistant varieties. Among lettuces, romaine and looseleaf varieties tend to have the best chance of making it through July and August.
Or think outside the traditional salad mix and consider other more heat-friendly greens such as Malabar or New Zealand spinach (both not true spinach, but close enough in taste, especially when cooked). Or plant a real summer star – chard.
Garden podcaster and former Sacramento radio icon Farmer Fred Hoffman has made Swiss chard his go-to summer green.
“Despite the protestations of nurseries that refuse to stock chard plants this time of year, Swiss chard has been a perennial plant for me, planted on the north side of the house,” says Hoffman. “It is a year-round green for us, perfect for salads and sandwiches. It is easy to grow from seed.”
Young chard leaves can be chopped and used in salads. More mature leaves are perfect when braised, sauteed or used in soups.
All chard varieties are drought-resistant, according to UC research. Seeds can be planted any time from February through September. A close relative to beets, chard has large seeds that are easy to handle; plant ½ inch deep, 1 inch apart, then thin as needed.
Chard also can be a colorful addition to the summer garden as well as the summer salad bowl. Rainbow chard mixes include stems in red, yellow, pink or orange with leaves ranging from bright lime to almost purple.
An All-American winner, ‘Bright Lights’ rainbow chard has a milder and sweeter flavor than traditional white-stemmed Swiss chard. This variety originally came from a New Zealand heirloom chard. (Does that make it Kiwi chard?) It also boasts an almost year-long harvest; just snip off leaves as needed.
That cut-and-come-again approach works with most leaf lettuces, too. For summer greens, look for “slow bolt” varieties that can take the heat without going to seed.
Burpee offers a “Heatwave” blend of slow-bolt lettuces including multiple varieties of red and green looseleaf lettuces plus heat-tolerant crisphead and romaine. These varieties can withstand high temperatures without getting tough or bitter, Burpee says. Find it here: https://rb.gy/ct69go
Territorial Seed Company offers a “Heat Tolerant Lettuce Mix” that’s ready to pick in 28 days. It’s heavy on the romaines – green, red and speckled – and is designed for harvest before the heads form (but if allowed, will produce nice heads, too, without bolting). Reviewers say this mix of lettuces stays sweet even in 95-degree heat.
Find it here: https://tinyurl.com/4828amzr
Part of summer greens success depends on when and how those greens are picked. Harvest lettuce and other greens in the morning; that’s when their leaves are crisp, sweet and full of moisture. Start harvesting looseleaf varieties as soon as their leaves are big enough to be useful.
Salad season doesn’t end in summer; plant lettuce and chard for fall. Start seed indoors in early August, then transplant later in the month or in September. Or direct seed lettuce outdoors in late August and September.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact
Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower
July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show
July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)
July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy
July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies
June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden
June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Aug. 9
During this break in the heat, fertilize your garden. Make sure to water before and after applying fertilizer.
*Feed citrus trees their last round of fertilizer for the year. This will give a boost to the fruit that’s now forming.
* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers. Also, give them a boost with phosphate-rich fertilizer to help fruiting.
* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.
* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don't let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.
* Camellia leaves looking a little yellow? Feed them some chelated iron. That goes for azaleas and gardenias, too.
* Pinch off dead flowers from perennials and annuals to lengthen their summer bloom.
* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot. Then feed fruit trees with slow-release fertilizer for better production for next year.
* To prolong bloom into fall, feed begonias, fuchsias, annuals and container plants. Always water before fertilizing.
* Fertilize fall-blooming perennials, too. Chrysanthemums can be fed until the buds start to open.
* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials, then give them a boost of fertilizer. Make sure to water plants before feeding. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.
* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.
* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.
* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips.
* Plant potatoes.
Contact Us
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Add asparagus to your edible garden
Soggy soil and what to do about it
Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
We don't talk (enough) about beets
Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Enhance your food with edible flowers
Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
How to grow summer salad greens
Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
Help pollinators help your garden
Battling early-season tomato pests
Where are the bees when you need them?
How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
Grow culinary herbs in containers
When to plant summer vegetables
Don't be fooled by these garden myths
Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth