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FIMBY: How to grow summer salad greens

Chard and heat-tolerant lettuce varieties offer crisp leaves during July and August

Chard can be grown  virtually year-round in the Sacramento region, making it a good substitute for more heat-sensitive greens. This is the Vulcan variety.

Chard can be grown virtually year-round in the Sacramento region, making it a good substitute for more heat-sensitive greens. This is the Vulcan variety. Kathy Morrison

This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series dedicated to edible gardening.

It’s summer salad season – just when lettuce tends to bolt in our climate. What are you supposed to mix with those newly ripe tomatoes?

Heat prompts lettuce and other traditional greens to go to seed (or bolt). Sensitive to higher temperatures, these leafy annuals use 90-degree days as a cue – it’s time to wrap this up and make seed! (It’s what nature intended.)

In addition, their tender leaves get thicker, tougher and often bitter; that thickness is another way to tolerate high heat, but not necessarily please people.

Most garden guides treat lettuces and other greens as cool-season only crops that can’t survive the stress of a Sacramento summer. What’s a salad-craving gardener to do?

Grow your salad in the shade. Instead of planting lettuce in full sun, put it in a pot on the north side of your house or in dappled shade under a tree. Move the plants around so they benefit from morning sun but are protected from afternoon scorching. Remember to water; don’t let greens dry out or their leaves will shrivel.

Look for heat-resistant varieties. Among lettuces, romaine and looseleaf varieties tend to have the best chance of making it through July and August.

Or think outside the traditional salad mix and consider other more heat-friendly greens such as Malabar or New Zealand spinach (both not true spinach, but close enough in taste, especially when cooked). Or plant a real summer star – chard.

Garden podcaster and former Sacramento radio icon Farmer Fred Hoffman has made Swiss chard his go-to summer green.

“Despite the protestations of nurseries that refuse to stock chard plants this time of year, Swiss chard has been a perennial plant for me, planted on the north side of the house,” says Hoffman. “It is a year-round green for us, perfect for salads and sandwiches. It is easy to grow from seed.”

Young chard leaves can be chopped and used in salads. More mature leaves are perfect when braised, sauteed or used in soups.

All chard varieties are drought-resistant, according to UC research. Seeds can be planted any time from February through September. A close relative to beets, chard has large seeds that are easy to handle; plant ½ inch deep, 1 inch apart, then thin as needed.

Chard also can be a colorful addition to the summer garden as well as the summer salad bowl. Rainbow chard mixes include stems in red, yellow, pink or orange with leaves ranging from bright lime to almost purple.

An All-American winner, ‘Bright Lights’ rainbow chard has a milder and sweeter flavor than traditional white-stemmed Swiss chard. This variety originally came from a New Zealand heirloom chard. (Does that make it Kiwi chard?) It also boasts an almost year-long harvest; just snip off leaves as needed.

That cut-and-come-again approach works with most leaf lettuces, too. For summer greens, look for “slow bolt” varieties that can take the heat without going to seed.

Burpee offers a “Heatwave” blend of slow-bolt lettuces including multiple varieties of red and green looseleaf lettuces plus heat-tolerant crisphead and romaine. These varieties can withstand high temperatures without getting tough or bitter, Burpee says. Find it here: https://rb.gy/ct69go

Territorial Seed Company offers a “Heat Tolerant Lettuce Mix” that’s ready to pick in 28 days. It’s heavy on the romaines – green, red and speckled – and is designed for harvest before the heads form (but if allowed, will produce nice heads, too, without bolting). Reviewers say this mix of lettuces stays sweet even in 95-degree heat.

Find it here: https://tinyurl.com/4828amzr

Part of summer greens success depends on when and how those greens are picked. Harvest lettuce and other greens in the morning; that’s when their leaves are crisp, sweet and full of moisture. Start harvesting looseleaf varieties as soon as their leaves are big enough to be useful.

Salad season doesn’t end in summer; plant lettuce and chard for fall. Start seed indoors in early August, then transplant later in the month or in September. Or direct seed lettuce outdoors in late August and September.

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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth