Succession planting allows for a more consistent flow of home-grown food
These Blue Ridge kale plants are maturing all at the same time, likely not what a home gardener would want, which is why succession planting is advised. (These are in the Vegetable Garden at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center; produce goes to food banks.) Kathy Morrison
Note: This is the second in our weekly series devoted to Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY).
“When can I plant?” That’s the most common question from new gardeners when they first get their plot in our community garden.
It depends – not only on what you plan to plant but when you want to harvest.
Too often, enthusiastic newbies (and some more experienced gardeners) plant their entire summer garden all at once with everything in the ground on the same day. Then, they’re overwhelmed when the majority of plants actually produce – with ripe veggies ready to pick all at the same time.
(Did you really think you were going to eat that much zucchini?)
It’s not just summer crops; right now in our community garden, heads of cabbage are growing bigger by the dozens. Since transplants come in six-packs, some folks planted 12 or 18 heads. That’s a lot of coleslaw!
When planning a garden, think about what you and your family realistically eat, including how often. Want a salad every night? Plant lots of lettuce and greens. But to keep those salads coming, stagger planting dates.
Seed packets and plant labels list how many days it will take that crop to reach harvest stage. This is valuable information; not all veggies (even of the same species) mature at the same rate.
Then, plan for “succession planting.” Instead of everything going into the ground at once, succession planting allows for a steady flow of transplants (or seeds) coming into the garden and mature veggies going out. By staggering planting dates, harvest can be staggered, too, and your garden can provide a more consistent (and consumable) bounty.
Get a calendar and do the math. If it takes 45 to 60 days for a head of loose-leaf lettuce to mature, plant a six-pack of seedlings every three weeks now through April. That’s 30 heads of lettuce before the end of June. (OK, you’ve really got to LOVE salad to plant that much.)
When planning, always consider seasonal temperatures. Some crops prefer cool weather, others need it hot. For example, lettuce turns bitter and bolts (goes to flower) in summer heat; switch to planting heat-resistant greens such as chard during those warmer months.
Remember: Summer veggies need summer heat. Just because you may see tomato seedlings in the nursery now doesn’t mean it’s time to plant them. Warm-season favorites such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, beans and squash need warm soil (above 55 degrees) to grow; otherwise, those transplants will just sit there and sulk (if they survive at all).
Another reminder: DO NOT plant what you won’t eat. That’s a waste of time, water, space and money. If nobody in your family really likes kale, skip the dino kale seedlings no matter how cute the name.
Think about your own schedule, too. Are you going on a month-long vacation in July? Don’t plant tomatoes in early May; they’ll be hitting their peak when you’re out of town.
To get your planning started, consult this planting guide compiled by UC master gardeners for Sacramento County. It offers the best planting windows for success for a wide range of crops from asparagus to watermelon. Find it here: https://sacmg.ucanr.edu/files/117117.pdf
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Food in My Back Yard Series
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
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Garden Checklist for week of March 16
Make the most of dry breaks between showers. Your garden is in high-growth mode.
* Pull weeds now! Don’t let them get started. Take a hoe and whack them as soon as they sprout.
* Prepare vegetable beds. Spade in compost and other amendments.
* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs after bloom.
* Feed camellias at the end of their bloom cycle. Pick up browned and fallen flowers to help corral blossom blight.
* Feed citrus trees, which are now in bloom and setting fruit. To prevent sunburn and borer problems on young trees, paint the exposed portion of the trunk with diluted white latex (water-based) interior paint. Dilute the paint with an equal amount of cold water before application.
* Feed roses with a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium available in that product).
* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs and trees after they bloom. Try using well-composted manure, spread 1-inch-thick under the tree (but avoid piling it up around the trunk). This serves as both fertilizer and mulch, retaining moisture while cutting down on weeds.
* Cut back and fertilize perennial herbs to encourage new growth.
* In the vegetable garden, transplant lettuce and cole family plants, such as cauliflower, broccoli, collards and kale.
* Seed chard and beets directly into the ground. (To speed germination, soak beet seeds overnight in room-temperature water before planting.)
* Before the mercury starts inching upward, this is your last chance to plant such annuals as pansies, violas and primroses.
* Plant summer bulbs, including gladiolus, tuberous begonias and callas. Also plant dahlia tubers.
* Shop for perennials. Many varieties are available in local nurseries and at plant events. They can be transplanted now while the weather remains relatively cool.