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FIMBY: Plant artichokes now, enjoy for years to come

Mediterranean perennial makes eye-catching and bee-friendly addition to edible gardens

After harvesting some artichokes, allow a few of the remaining buds to bloom into these gorgeous flowers -- the bees (like the one inside there) love them.

After harvesting some artichokes, allow a few of the remaining buds to bloom into these gorgeous flowers -- the bees (like the one inside there) love them. Debbie Arrington

This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, dedicated to edible gardening.

One plant really stands out in Sacramento vegetable beds: Artichokes.

In fact, they can be at home in ornamental landscapes and pollinator gardens, too. They’re well-adapted to our climate, soaking up winter rain and going dormant during our dry summer.

California is artichoke country. Our state supplies most of the nation’s artichokes, with more than 70% grown in Monterey County.

A Mediterranean native, artichokes are a member of the thistle family. For centuries, they’ve been cultivated for their edible flower buds, the vegetable we think of as an artichoke. (A close cousin, cardoon, is grown for the edible ribs of its silvery leaves as well as its smaller flower buds.)

A perennial, artichokes are planted in December and January as bare-root plants. Green Globe artichokes – with fat, round bud heads – are the most popular and familiar variety. Imperial is a relatively thornless hybrid.

Home of artichoke lovers for generations, Italy offers dozens of heritage varieties, some of them with very wicked and sharp spines. Among the best known are Romanesco (large and green with purple streaks and fewer thorns), Violetto Toscano (a small, pointy and thorny purple variety from Tuscany) and Violetta de Chioggia (a less thorny and very purple heirloom variety with exceptional flavor).

In the garden, artichokes need room. Plants often take up a space 3 to 4 feet square. Their handsome, silver, sharply cut foliage contrasts with softer, rounder plants. At the back of the bed, they make a dramatic backdrop for annuals. Or they can be an eye-catching focal point all their own.

Because they’ll stay in the same place for years to come, make sure their new home has good drainage and plenty of organic matter such as compost worked into the soil. Ideally, choose a spot with morning sun and a little afternoon shade to avoid sunburn in summer.

Artichokes need about six hours of sun a day to produce flowers (which is the whole idea). For comparison, that’s about the same light requirement as roses.

Artichokes on stalks
Artichokes stand tall in the garden.

This perennial does its growing during winter; that’s when it needs the most water and nutrients. Fortunately, rain supplies most of its required moisture. (During dry spells, irrigate once a week.) As for fertilizer, artichokes benefit from monthly applications of aged compost. That also acts as mulch, keeping the soil evenly moist.

Watch out for ants. These clever colonists like to use artichoke plants as homes for aphids, which they “milk” for honeydew. Get rid of both with regular strong blasts of water from a hose.

As weather warms, watch for flower buds to emerge in spring. The plant will sprout flower stalks (some 5 or 6 feet tall). The biggest artichokes will form at the top of those stalks. (They’re terminal buds.) Several smaller buds will form along the sides of those stalks. Those “baby” artichokes will never reach the size of the terminal buds; they’ll stay small (but are still tasty).

This perennial does more than offer us an unusual treat; they also feed the bees. Artichokes are harvested before the flowers open. But the purple powderpuff inside the edible petals is what the bees love. (They also look spectacular in the garden.)

When harvested, those amazing flower heads are still maturing. (They form the fuzzy choke above the meaty artichoke heart.)
Allowed to develop and fully open, the artichoke flower becomes a bee banquet, irresistible to these important pollinators.

One reminder: Those bees are pollinating those artichoke flowers, which likely will form seed. According to the UC Cooperative Extension, the seed produced by globe artichokes (California's most popular variety) reverts to a wild, invasive and very thorny cousin.

So, cut the flowerheads off when they turn brown before they can distribute seed throughout your garden. One more plus: They make attractive dried flowers, too.

After flowering, artichokes die back to the ground to rest over summer. By November, they sprout to start the whole cycle over again.

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Garden checklist for week of April 12

After these storms pass, get to work on spring clean-up.

* Weed, weed, weed! Take advantage of soft soil and pull them before they go to seed.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, radishes and squash.

* Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias.

* Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant heat-resistant lettuce seedlings.

* Feed roses and other spring-blooming shrubs.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Feed citrus trees with a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds. Avoid "volcano mulching" -- be sure to keep mulch a few inches away from tree trunks or the stems of shrubs. This prevents rot and disease.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth