Mediterranean perennial makes eye-catching and bee-friendly addition to edible gardens
After harvesting some artichokes, allow a few of the remaining buds to bloom into these gorgeous flowers -- the bees (like the one inside there) love them. Debbie Arrington
This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, dedicated to edible gardening.
One plant really stands out in Sacramento vegetable beds: Artichokes.
In fact, they can be at home in ornamental landscapes and pollinator gardens, too. They’re well-adapted to our climate, soaking up winter rain and going dormant during our dry summer.
California is artichoke country. Our state supplies most of the nation’s artichokes, with more than 70% grown in Monterey County.
A Mediterranean native, artichokes are a member of the thistle family. For centuries, they’ve been cultivated for their edible flower buds, the vegetable we think of as an artichoke. (A close cousin, cardoon, is grown for the edible ribs of its silvery leaves as well as its smaller flower buds.)
A perennial, artichokes are planted in December and January as bare-root plants. Green Globe artichokes – with fat, round bud heads – are the most popular and familiar variety. Imperial is a relatively thornless hybrid.
Home of artichoke lovers for generations, Italy offers dozens of heritage varieties, some of them with very wicked and sharp spines. Among the best known are Romanesco (large and green with purple streaks and fewer thorns), Violetto Toscano (a small, pointy and thorny purple variety from Tuscany) and Violetta de Chioggia (a less thorny and very purple heirloom variety with exceptional flavor).
In the garden, artichokes need room. Plants often take up a space 3 to 4 feet square. Their handsome, silver, sharply cut foliage contrasts with softer, rounder plants. At the back of the bed, they make a dramatic backdrop for annuals. Or they can be an eye-catching focal point all their own.
Because they’ll stay in the same place for years to come, make sure their new home has good drainage and plenty of organic matter such as compost worked into the soil. Ideally, choose a spot with morning sun and a little afternoon shade to avoid sunburn in summer.
Artichokes need about six hours of sun a day to produce flowers (which is the whole idea). For comparison, that’s about the same light requirement as roses.
This perennial does its growing during winter; that’s when it needs the most water and nutrients. Fortunately, rain supplies most of its required moisture. (During dry spells, irrigate once a week.) As for fertilizer, artichokes benefit from monthly applications of aged compost. That also acts as mulch, keeping the soil evenly moist.
Watch out for ants. These clever colonists like to use artichoke plants as homes for aphids, which they “milk” for honeydew. Get rid of both with regular strong blasts of water from a hose.
As weather warms, watch for flower buds to emerge in spring. The plant will sprout flower stalks (some 5 or 6 feet tall). The biggest artichokes will form at the top of those stalks. (They’re terminal buds.) Several smaller buds will form along the sides of those stalks. Those “baby” artichokes will never reach the size of the terminal buds; they’ll stay small (but are still tasty).
This perennial does more than offer us an unusual treat; they also feed the bees. Artichokes are harvested before the flowers open. But the purple powderpuff inside the edible petals is what the bees love. (They also look spectacular in the garden.)
When harvested, those amazing flower heads are still maturing. (They form the fuzzy choke above the meaty artichoke heart.)
Allowed to develop and fully open, the artichoke flower becomes a bee banquet, irresistible to these important pollinators.
One reminder: Those bees are pollinating those artichoke flowers, which likely will form seed. According to the UC Cooperative Extension, the seed produced by globe artichokes (California's most popular variety) reverts to a wild, invasive and very thorny cousin.
So, cut the flowerheads off when they turn brown before they can distribute seed throughout your garden. One more plus: They make attractive dried flowers, too.
After flowering, artichokes die back to the ground to rest over summer. By November, they sprout to start the whole cycle over again.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
WINTER:
Jan. 20: Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18
Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!
* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.
* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.
* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.
* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.
* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.
* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.
* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.
* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.
* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.
* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.
* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.
* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.
* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.
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