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FIMBY: How to squeeze more food into less space

Square-foot gardening makes the most of room in raised beds

What do onion sets have to do with low-space gardening? Find Debbie's tip in this week's FIMBY post.

What do onion sets have to do with low-space gardening? Find Debbie's tip in this week's FIMBY post. Kathy Morrison

This is another in our “Food in My Back Yard” series, dedicated to edible gardening.

One revelation totally changes space management in the small garden: Vegetables do not need to grow in rows.

Yes, they need “proper spacing” – a.k.a. enough room to grow. But that doesn’t mean little transplants have to line up like soldiers on parade.

Farms plant in rows because of mechanization; straight rows give tractor wheels room to roll. But you’re not using heavy machinery to plant and harvest a 4-by-8-foot raised bed.

Instead, envision your garden space as “blocks.” These blocks can be uniform, too, as in one square foot.

Mel Bartholomew, a retired engineer with a passion for vegetable gardening, pioneered the concept of “Square Foot Gardening” nearly 50 years ago. He discovered that people in his community garden would quickly become discouraged by a common problem – weeds! The space between rows allowed weeds to flourish.

What if you could eliminate some of that space? Could veggies squeeze out weeds?

Square foot garden
One-inch lath marks the spaces in this
class square-foot garden.

Using 1-inch lath spaced 1 foot apart, Bartolomew created grids across his raised beds. With his system, a 4-by-4-foot raised bed has 16 squares. He then mapped out the spacing for veggies within each square. One cabbage needed an entire square with the head planted in the middle. But 16 carrots (planted and thinned to four mini-rows) could fill another. Or the entire square could be carpeted with loose-leaf lettuce seeds, then seedlings thinned to 4 or 6 inches apart as the baby lettuces grew.

Bartholomew liked the symmetry and mathematics of his system. Every square had one, four, nine or 16 plants, depending on their size and space requirements.

Planted in this quilt-like grid, the assortment of plants allowed for little room for weeds – and a lot less work for the gardeners. It also produced higher yields than traditional row planting because more veggies were growing in less space.

In addition to the grid, Bartholomew recommended planting in a raised bed, at least 6 to 12 inches deep and filled with fluffy organic-rich soil to better retain moisture. Thinning is done with scissors, not pulling, so soil is not disturbed. And he recommended NEVER stepping on the soil in the raised bed to avoid compaction.

Which brings up an important point: How do you reach your plants? (Keep the grid under 4 feet wide so you can reach in from the sides.)

Larger plants – such as a zucchini or a tomato vine – need their own block of two or four squares. That’s when the wooden grid can get in the way. Instead, use anchored string, wire or other markers to delineate the squares.

No physical grid is actually necessary for square foot gardening; it’s mostly a visual aid for planning and planting as well as gives the garden a more orderly look.

Instead, I use onions as my markers. Onion bulbs sprout quickly and they grow straight up. Onions also make a good companion plant; they naturally ward off a lot of pests. (And if allowed to flower, they attract beneficial insects.)

I may plant a straight line of onions down the middle of a bed, dividing it in half. Or I poke a bulb in at 1-foot intervals, creating green points on a living grid.

Either way, the onions cue spacing for lettuce, chard, beets, radishes, carrots and many other crops that can be planted now. The onions will stay in place and keep developing as the early spring veggies move out and summer favorites move in. In late summer, the onions will be ready to harvest, too.

For more on square foot gardening including planting cheat sheets: https://squarefootgardening.org/

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

FALL

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth

WINTER

March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds

March 4: Potatoes from the garden

Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space

Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting

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Garden checklist for week of Dec. 14

Rain is due midweek, but there should be some partly sunny breaks between rain clouds, especially Thursday. Make the most of those opportunities and show your garden some TLC.

* Brighten the holidays with winter bloomers such as poinsettias, amaryllis, calendulas, Iceland poppies, pansies and primroses.

* Keep poinsettias in a sunny, warm location. Water thoroughly. After the holidays, feed your plants monthly so they’ll bloom again next December.

* Rake and remove dead leaves and stems from dormant perennials.

* Rake and compost leaves from trees, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.

* Clear gutters and storm drains.

* Prune dead or broken branches from trees.

* Plant bulbs at two-week intervals to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.

* Seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.

* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies, violas and snapdragons.

* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.

* Plant garlic and onions.

* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.

* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.

* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while they’re dormant.

* Clean and sharpen garden tools before storing for the winter.

* Bare-root season begins. Plant bare-root berries, kiwifruit, grapes, artichokes, horseradish and rhubarb.

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