Square-foot gardening makes the most of room in raised beds
What do onion sets have to do with low-space gardening? Find Debbie's tip in this week's FIMBY post. Kathy Morrison
This is another in our “Food in My Back Yard” series, dedicated to edible gardening.
One revelation totally changes space management in the small garden: Vegetables do not need to grow in rows.
Yes, they need “proper spacing” – a.k.a. enough room to grow. But that doesn’t mean little transplants have to line up like soldiers on parade.
Farms plant in rows because of mechanization; straight rows give tractor wheels room to roll. But you’re not using heavy machinery to plant and harvest a 4-by-8-foot raised bed.
Instead, envision your garden space as “blocks.” These blocks can be uniform, too, as in one square foot.
Mel Bartholomew, a retired engineer with a passion for vegetable gardening, pioneered the concept of “Square Foot Gardening” nearly 50 years ago. He discovered that people in his community garden would quickly become discouraged by a common problem – weeds! The space between rows allowed weeds to flourish.
What if you could eliminate some of that space? Could veggies squeeze out weeds?
Using 1-inch lath spaced 1 foot apart, Bartolomew created grids across his raised beds. With his system, a 4-by-4-foot raised bed has 16 squares. He then mapped out the spacing for veggies within each square. One cabbage needed an entire square with the head planted in the middle. But 16 carrots (planted and thinned to four mini-rows) could fill another. Or the entire square could be carpeted with loose-leaf lettuce seeds, then seedlings thinned to 4 or 6 inches apart as the baby lettuces grew.
Bartholomew liked the symmetry and mathematics of his system. Every square had one, four, nine or 16 plants, depending on their size and space requirements.
Planted in this quilt-like grid, the assortment of plants allowed for little room for weeds – and a lot less work for the gardeners. It also produced higher yields than traditional row planting because more veggies were growing in less space.
In addition to the grid, Bartholomew recommended planting in a raised bed, at least 6 to 12 inches deep and filled with fluffy organic-rich soil to better retain moisture. Thinning is done with scissors, not pulling, so soil is not disturbed. And he recommended NEVER stepping on the soil in the raised bed to avoid compaction.
Which brings up an important point: How do you reach your plants? (Keep the grid under 4 feet wide so you can reach in from the sides.)
Larger plants – such as a zucchini or a tomato vine – need their own block of two or four squares. That’s when the wooden grid can get in the way. Instead, use anchored string, wire or other markers to delineate the squares.
No physical grid is actually necessary for square foot gardening; it’s mostly a visual aid for planning and planting as well as gives the garden a more orderly look.
Instead, I use onions as my markers. Onion bulbs sprout quickly and they grow straight up. Onions also make a good companion plant; they naturally ward off a lot of pests. (And if allowed to flower, they attract beneficial insects.)
I may plant a straight line of onions down the middle of a bed, dividing it in half. Or I poke a bulb in at 1-foot intervals, creating green points on a living grid.
Either way, the onions cue spacing for lettuce, chard, beets, radishes, carrots and many other crops that can be planted now. The onions will stay in place and keep developing as the early spring veggies move out and summer favorites move in. In late summer, the onions will be ready to harvest, too.
For more on square foot gardening including planting cheat sheets: https://squarefootgardening.org/
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
FALL
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Dec. 14
Rain is due midweek, but there should be some partly sunny breaks between rain clouds, especially Thursday. Make the most of those opportunities and show your garden some TLC.
* Brighten the holidays with winter bloomers such as poinsettias, amaryllis, calendulas, Iceland poppies, pansies and primroses.
* Keep poinsettias in a sunny, warm location. Water thoroughly. After the holidays, feed your plants monthly so they’ll bloom again next December.
* Rake and remove dead leaves and stems from dormant perennials.
* Rake and compost leaves from trees, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.
* Clear gutters and storm drains.
* Prune dead or broken branches from trees.
* Plant bulbs at two-week intervals to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.
* Seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.
* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies, violas and snapdragons.
* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.
* Plant garlic and onions.
* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.
* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.
* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while they’re dormant.
* Clean and sharpen garden tools before storing for the winter.
* Bare-root season begins. Plant bare-root berries, kiwifruit, grapes, artichokes, horseradish and rhubarb.
Contact Us
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