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FIMBY: How to squeeze more food into less space

Square-foot gardening makes the most of room in raised beds

What do onion sets have to do with low-space gardening? Find Debbie's tip in this week's FIMBY post.

What do onion sets have to do with low-space gardening? Find Debbie's tip in this week's FIMBY post. Kathy Morrison

This is another in our “Food in My Back Yard” series, dedicated to edible gardening.

One revelation totally changes space management in the small garden: Vegetables do not need to grow in rows.

Yes, they need “proper spacing” – a.k.a. enough room to grow. But that doesn’t mean little transplants have to line up like soldiers on parade.

Farms plant in rows because of mechanization; straight rows give tractor wheels room to roll. But you’re not using heavy machinery to plant and harvest a 4-by-8-foot raised bed.

Instead, envision your garden space as “blocks.” These blocks can be uniform, too, as in one square foot.

Mel Bartholomew, a retired engineer with a passion for vegetable gardening, pioneered the concept of “Square Foot Gardening” nearly 50 years ago. He discovered that people in his community garden would quickly become discouraged by a common problem – weeds! The space between rows allowed weeds to flourish.

What if you could eliminate some of that space? Could veggies squeeze out weeds?

Square foot garden
One-inch lath marks the spaces in this
class square-foot garden.

Using 1-inch lath spaced 1 foot apart, Bartolomew created grids across his raised beds. With his system, a 4-by-4-foot raised bed has 16 squares. He then mapped out the spacing for veggies within each square. One cabbage needed an entire square with the head planted in the middle. But 16 carrots (planted and thinned to four mini-rows) could fill another. Or the entire square could be carpeted with loose-leaf lettuce seeds, then seedlings thinned to 4 or 6 inches apart as the baby lettuces grew.

Bartholomew liked the symmetry and mathematics of his system. Every square had one, four, nine or 16 plants, depending on their size and space requirements.

Planted in this quilt-like grid, the assortment of plants allowed for little room for weeds – and a lot less work for the gardeners. It also produced higher yields than traditional row planting because more veggies were growing in less space.

In addition to the grid, Bartholomew recommended planting in a raised bed, at least 6 to 12 inches deep and filled with fluffy organic-rich soil to better retain moisture. Thinning is done with scissors, not pulling, so soil is not disturbed. And he recommended NEVER stepping on the soil in the raised bed to avoid compaction.

Which brings up an important point: How do you reach your plants? (Keep the grid under 4 feet wide so you can reach in from the sides.)

Larger plants – such as a zucchini or a tomato vine – need their own block of two or four squares. That’s when the wooden grid can get in the way. Instead, use anchored string, wire or other markers to delineate the squares.

No physical grid is actually necessary for square foot gardening; it’s mostly a visual aid for planning and planting as well as gives the garden a more orderly look.

Instead, I use onions as my markers. Onion bulbs sprout quickly and they grow straight up. Onions also make a good companion plant; they naturally ward off a lot of pests. (And if allowed to flower, they attract beneficial insects.)

I may plant a straight line of onions down the middle of a bed, dividing it in half. Or I poke a bulb in at 1-foot intervals, creating green points on a living grid.

Either way, the onions cue spacing for lettuce, chard, beets, radishes, carrots and many other crops that can be planted now. The onions will stay in place and keep developing as the early spring veggies move out and summer favorites move in. In late summer, the onions will be ready to harvest, too.

For more on square foot gardening including planting cheat sheets: https://squarefootgardening.org/

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Garden Checklist for week of March 16

Make the most of dry breaks between showers. Your garden is in high-growth mode.

* Pull weeds now! Don’t let them get started. Take a hoe and whack them as soon as they sprout.

* Prepare vegetable beds. Spade in compost and other amendments.

* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs after bloom.

* Feed camellias at the end of their bloom cycle. Pick up browned and fallen flowers to help corral blossom blight.

* Feed citrus trees, which are now in bloom and setting fruit. To prevent sunburn and borer problems on young trees, paint the exposed portion of the trunk with diluted white latex (water-based) interior paint. Dilute the paint with an equal amount of cold water before application.

* Feed roses with a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium available in that product).

* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs and trees after they bloom. Try using well-composted manure, spread 1-inch-thick under the tree (but avoid piling it up around the trunk). This serves as both fertilizer and mulch, retaining moisture while cutting down on weeds.

* Cut back and fertilize perennial herbs to encourage new growth.

* In the vegetable garden, transplant lettuce and cole family plants, such as cauliflower, broccoli, collards and kale.

* Seed chard and beets directly into the ground. (To speed germination, soak beet seeds overnight in room-temperature water before planting.)

* Before the mercury starts inching upward, this is your last chance to plant such annuals as pansies, violas and primroses.

* Plant summer bulbs, including gladiolus, tuberous begonias and callas. Also plant dahlia tubers.

* Shop for perennials. Many varieties are available in local nurseries and at plant events. They can be transplanted now while the weather remains relatively cool.

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