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FIMBY: Fava beans do double duty

Winter cover crop also produces delicious beans and greens

These are young fava bean plants growing in a community garden. Favas can be planted now.

These are young fava bean plants growing in a community garden. Favas can be planted now. Debbie Arrington

This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, devoted to edible gardening.

I first encountered fava beans at an Italian restaurant back in the 1980s. Like tasty jewels, the emerald-green beans were mixed in with pasta. They weren’t limas, although about the same shape, and a lot more flavorful. Their waxy skins had been removed, leaving shiny little beans that almost melted in your mouth.

Intrigued, I started asking for them at farmers markets and quickly discovered: Favas aren’t your average bean.

Fresh favas are never found in summer; they’re a winter and early spring crop.

When other beans are wrapping up for the season, favas are planted now in early fall. They grow in winter with harvest of full-size pods in earliest spring. Meanwhile, their leaves and immature beans are edible, too. (Fava leaves can substitute for spinach; treat the baby beans including pods – no bigger than your pinkie finger – like green beans.)

Favas work hard in the garden, too. Their flowers support bees and other beneficials when few other plants are in bloom in the fall and winter garden.

Compared to some crops, favas are super-easy. They don’t need trellises; they grow 3 to 4 feet tall with little or no support and average water. (Winter rain often covers their needs.)

They can grow in average soil with little care. As a legume, they leave the soil better than when they were planted.

For those latter reasons, favas are often recommended as a cover crop, especially in local community gardens. (They work their magic in small spaces – or large fields.)

Legumes such as favas “fix” nitrogen in the soil. Through a symbiotic relationship with bacteria that live in their root nodules, they can pull nitrogen out of the air (actually air pockets in the soil) and turn it into nitrogen the plant can use as fertilizer. They hold onto that nitrogen in their root nodules until the plant dies; as the dead roots break down, that “fixed” nitrogen is available to other plants.

To get the most out of nitrogen-fixing legumes, leave their roots to decompose in the soil after the plant is spent. Just chop off the plant at the soil line instead of pulling it all out.

Nitrogen is one of the big three macronutrients that plants need for growth. (Phosphorus and potassium are the other two.) Any plant that leaves more nitrogen in the soil than it uses is a definite plus for gardeners.

So, favas do double duty in the winter garden; they’re a cover crop you can eat while getting the soil ready for spring and summer planting.

Fava beans
These are mature fava bean pods and several
of the beans.

Yet, many gardeners treat favas like alfalfa (another popular legume-family cover crop that’s used as animal feed). They plant favas, chop down the plants in spring and discard the foliage and beans (or leave them on the ground as mulch).

Instead, eat the beans and leaves; they’re not only delicious but full of antioxidants. They’ll help your health as well as your soil.

Treat the leaves just like spinach; they cook very quickly (stir-fried or steamed works best). Fava greens also can be used in pasta stuffings such as ravioli or lasagna.

Mature favas work well as a substitute for limas, but favas cook in a fraction of the time. Although the peeled fava beans cook quickly, they take a while to prepare.

It takes a lot of fava pods to yield a cup of fava beans. With soft velvety lining, the mature pods are quite big, 8 to 10 inches long (or more), with great big beans (an inch or more wide). But each giant pod has only a few precious favas. And they’re not ready to cook yet.

After removal from their pods, large mature beans need to be individually skinned.

Small, tender beans (under ¼ inch) don’t need their skins removed. But as the beans get bigger, those skins tend to be tough, chewy and bitter. Removal improves favas’ overall flavor and texture.

Skinning favas is a process. First, remove beans from pods. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Plunge beans into boiling water and boil for 3 to 4 minutes, until the skins start to wrinkle.

Drain; plunge beans into ice water or rinse under cold water. With a thumb nail or paring knife, make a slit on the long side of the bean and peel off the skin, one bean at a time.

Two cups of unshelled fava beans yields about 1 to 1-1/4 cups peeled.

It will seem like a lot of work (it is!), but the flavor will convince you to grow more favas next year.

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Quick note: Have questions about growing cover crops, cool-season vegetables or other edibles? Visit the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center between 9 a.m. and noon Wednesday, Oct. 8, for the Sacramento County master gardeners' free Open Garden Day. The Vegetable Garden and the other garden areas will be staffed with master gardeners eager to share their knowledge.

This will be the final Open Garden Day for 2025. Mini talks scheduled during the morning will cover: making a worm compost bin; growing herbs from different cultures; and adjusting soil pH for blueberries.

The Horticulture Center is located at 11549 Fair Oaks Blvd., adjoining Fair Oaks Park, just south of Madison Avenue in Fair Oaks.

For information on master gardener events, visit the website here. The link to their many vegetable-growing publications is here.

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Garden checklist for week of March 8

During this sunny week, get your garden set up for a beautiful spring:

* Fertilize roses, annual flowers and berries as spring growth begins to appear.

* Pull weeds now! Don’t let them get started. Take a hoe and whack them as soon as they sprout.

* Prepare vegetable beds. Spade in compost and other amendments.

* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs after bloom.

* Feed camellias at the end of their bloom cycle. Pick up browned and fallen flowers to help corral blossom blight.

* Feed citrus trees, which are now in bloom and setting fruit. To prevent sunburn and borer problems on young trees, paint the exposed portion of the trunk with diluted white latex (water-based) interior paint. Dilute the paint with an equal amount of cold water before application.

* Feed roses with a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium available in that product).

* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs and trees after they bloom. Try using well-composted manure, spread 1-inch thick under the tree. This serves as both fertilizer and mulch, retaining moisture while cutting down on weeds.

* Cut back and fertilize perennial herbs to encourage new growth.

* In the vegetable garden, transplant lettuce and cole family plants, such as broccoli, collards and kale.

* Seed chard and beets directly into the ground. (Soak beet seeds first for better germination.)

* Plant summer bulbs, including gladiolus, tuberous begonias and callas. Also plant dahlia tubers.

* Shop for perennials. Many varieties are available in local nurseries and at plant events. They can be transplanted now while the weather remains relatively cool.

* Seed and renovate the lawn (if you still have one). Feed cool-season grasses such as bent, blue, rye and fescue with a slow-release fertilizer. Check the irrigation system and perform maintenance. Make sure sprinkler heads are turned toward the lawn, not the sidewalk.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth