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FIMBY: Fava beans do double duty

Winter cover crop also produces delicious beans and greens

These are young fava bean plants growing in a community garden. Favas can be planted now.

These are young fava bean plants growing in a community garden. Favas can be planted now. Debbie Arrington

This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, devoted to edible gardening.

I first encountered fava beans at an Italian restaurant back in the 1980s. Like tasty jewels, the emerald-green beans were mixed in with pasta. They weren’t limas, although about the same shape, and a lot more flavorful. Their waxy skins had been removed, leaving shiny little beans that almost melted in your mouth.

Intrigued, I started asking for them at farmers markets and quickly discovered: Favas aren’t your average bean.

Fresh favas are never found in summer; they’re a winter and early spring crop.

When other beans are wrapping up for the season, favas are planted now in early fall. They grow in winter with harvest of full-size pods in earliest spring. Meanwhile, their leaves and immature beans are edible, too. (Fava leaves can substitute for spinach; treat the baby beans including pods – no bigger than your pinkie finger – like green beans.)

Favas work hard in the garden, too. Their flowers support bees and other beneficials when few other plants are in bloom in the fall and winter garden.

Compared to some crops, favas are super-easy. They don’t need trellises; they grow 3 to 4 feet tall with little or no support and average water. (Winter rain often covers their needs.)

They can grow in average soil with little care. As a legume, they leave the soil better than when they were planted.

For those latter reasons, favas are often recommended as a cover crop, especially in local community gardens. (They work their magic in small spaces – or large fields.)

Legumes such as favas “fix” nitrogen in the soil. Through a symbiotic relationship with bacteria that live in their root nodules, they can pull nitrogen out of the air (actually air pockets in the soil) and turn it into nitrogen the plant can use as fertilizer. They hold onto that nitrogen in their root nodules until the plant dies; as the dead roots break down, that “fixed” nitrogen is available to other plants.

To get the most out of nitrogen-fixing legumes, leave their roots to decompose in the soil after the plant is spent. Just chop off the plant at the soil line instead of pulling it all out.

Nitrogen is one of the big three macronutrients that plants need for growth. (Phosphorus and potassium are the other two.) Any plant that leaves more nitrogen in the soil than it uses is a definite plus for gardeners.

So, favas do double duty in the winter garden; they’re a cover crop you can eat while getting the soil ready for spring and summer planting.

Fava beans
These are mature fava bean pods and several
of the beans.

Yet, many gardeners treat favas like alfalfa (another popular legume-family cover crop that’s used as animal feed). They plant favas, chop down the plants in spring and discard the foliage and beans (or leave them on the ground as mulch).

Instead, eat the beans and leaves; they’re not only delicious but full of antioxidants. They’ll help your health as well as your soil.

Treat the leaves just like spinach; they cook very quickly (stir-fried or steamed works best). Fava greens also can be used in pasta stuffings such as ravioli or lasagna.

Mature favas work well as a substitute for limas, but favas cook in a fraction of the time. Although the peeled fava beans cook quickly, they take a while to prepare.

It takes a lot of fava pods to yield a cup of fava beans. With soft velvety lining, the mature pods are quite big, 8 to 10 inches long (or more), with great big beans (an inch or more wide). But each giant pod has only a few precious favas. And they’re not ready to cook yet.

After removal from their pods, large mature beans need to be individually skinned.

Small, tender beans (under ¼ inch) don’t need their skins removed. But as the beans get bigger, those skins tend to be tough, chewy and bitter. Removal improves favas’ overall flavor and texture.

Skinning favas is a process. First, remove beans from pods. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Plunge beans into boiling water and boil for 3 to 4 minutes, until the skins start to wrinkle.

Drain; plunge beans into ice water or rinse under cold water. With a thumb nail or paring knife, make a slit on the long side of the bean and peel off the skin, one bean at a time.

Two cups of unshelled fava beans yields about 1 to 1-1/4 cups peeled.

It will seem like a lot of work (it is!), but the flavor will convince you to grow more favas next year.

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Quick note: Have questions about growing cover crops, cool-season vegetables or other edibles? Visit the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center between 9 a.m. and noon Wednesday, Oct. 8, for the Sacramento County master gardeners' free Open Garden Day. The Vegetable Garden and the other garden areas will be staffed with master gardeners eager to share their knowledge.

This will be the final Open Garden Day for 2025. Mini talks scheduled during the morning will cover: making a worm compost bin; growing herbs from different cultures; and adjusting soil pH for blueberries.

The Horticulture Center is located at 11549 Fair Oaks Blvd., adjoining Fair Oaks Park, just south of Madison Avenue in Fair Oaks.

For information on master gardener events, visit the website here. The link to their many vegetable-growing publications is here.

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Flowers in My Back Yard Series

Aug. 25: Crape myrtles, Sacramento's unofficial tree of summer

Aug. 18: Pollinators adore scabiosa, aka pincushion flower

Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact

Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower

July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show

July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)

July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy

July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies

June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden

June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners

June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)

June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself

June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude

May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?

May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs

May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power

May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens

May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend

April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look

April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower

April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact

April 7: Calendulas do double duty

April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come

March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)

March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots

March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums

March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come

March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy

Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?

Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come

Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers

Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses

Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?

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Garden checklist for week of Aug. 16

During this break in the heat, feed your garden. Make sure to water before and after applying fertilizer.

* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips.

* Plant potatoes.

* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers. Also, give them a boost with phosphate-rich fertilizer to help fruiting.

* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.

* Feed citrus trees their last round of fertilizer for the year. This will give a boost to the fruit that’s still small.

* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don't let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.

* Camellia leaves looking a little yellow? Give them some chelated iron. That goes for azaleas and gardenias, too.

* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot. Then feed fruit trees with slow-release fertilizer for better production for next year.

* To prolong bloom into fall, feed begonias, fuchsias and container plants. Always water before fertilizing.

* Fertilize fall-blooming perennials, too. Chrysanthemums can be fed until the buds start to open.

* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials, then give them a boost of fertilizer. Make sure to water plants before feeding. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.

* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.

* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.

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Taste Spring! E-cookbook

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Taste Fall! E-cookbook

Muffins and pumpkin

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Taste Winter! E-cookbook

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Add asparagus to your edible garden

Soggy soil and what to do about it

Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Change is in the autumn air 

We don't talk (enough) about beets

Fava beans do double duty

Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Time to shut it down? 

How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

: Put worms to work for you

Grow food while saving water

Enhance your food with edible flowers

Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

Does this plant need water?

 Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

How to grow summer salad greens

 Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

Help pollinators help your garden

Battling early-season tomato pests

Make your own compost

Where are the bees when you need them?

How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

Grow culinary herbs in containers

When to plant summer vegetables

Don't be fooled by these garden myths

Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth