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FIMBY: Does this plant need water?

How to tell if wilting is normal and what to do about it

This droopy squash plant isn't in need of water; it's using its defense mechanism in the afternoon heat. If you see one like this, check the soil. If the plant is still wilted the next morning, give it a thorough watering.

This droopy squash plant isn't in need of water; it's using its defense mechanism in the afternoon heat. If you see one like this, check the soil. If the plant is still wilted the next morning, give it a thorough watering. Kathy Morrison

Here's another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series on growing edible plants.

During triple-digit weather, it’s easy to get dehydrated. That goes for gardeners as well as gardens.

We know when we’re thirsty and feel ready to wilt. But how do you react to wilting leaves?

It depends on the time of day. In the afternoon, grab a soil probe, trowel or moisture meter. In the morning, grab a hose.

Some plants wilt normally in summer heat; it’s their defense against high temperatures. This is especially true of large-leafed vegetables (think zucchini) or heirloom tomatoes (especially varieties of Russian origin). If those same plants are still wilted the next morning, then it’s an indicator of more than a warm afternoon.

Before irrigating, check the soil around the plant. Use a moisture meter, soil probe or trowel to dig down about 6 inches and actually look at the soil. Is it moist or dry as dust? Or worse, a 6-inch soil probe or long-handled screwdriver won’t penetrate.

If the soil is dry or hard, deep-water the plant. Sensitive little feeder roots in the top few inches of soil need consistent moisture. If the soil looks dry 2 or 3 inches below the surface, give the plant some water immediately, then see how it reacts.

A droopy plant also can indicate too much water. (That’s why you check the soil moisture.) You may have an irrigation issue. Figure out where the excess water is coming from and remedy the problem. The plant should recover once the soil has a chance to dry out to normal.

(Remember: Drip irrigation needs regular check-ups. Don’t assume it’s working properly; check the soil around plants. Tubing can split and emitters can become clogged.)

Once soil moisture is stabilized, maintain it with mulch. Use organic mulch such as wood chips, shredded bark, dried leaves or straw; this slowly adds some nutrients to the soil while also blanketing the ground. Mulch should be 3 to 4 inches deep, but don’t mound it around plants. (That can promote fungal issues.) Keep a little 4-inch circle free from mulch around plant’s main stems.

Like people, plants also can appreciate some afternoon shade. Yes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and other summer favorites prefer “full sun.” But too much sun can lead to sun scald and sunburned leaves.

In addition, a little temporary shade will help a dried-out plant recover faster.

Temporary shade can be simple and creative; use what you have on hand. Keeping a cache of clothes pins or binder clips among the garden supplies can help. Some ideas:

* An open umbrella;

* Shade cloth stretched between two stakes;

* Burlap atop a tomato cage; or

* Plastic plant flats (those with an open grid), propped up on stakes, cages or trellises.

Avoid draping the shade cloth or burlap directly on the plant; that just adds to stress. If a plant develops sunburned leaves, keep that foliage on the plant; it will help protect developing fruit, other leaves and the plant’s stems from more sunburn. Once temperatures have cooled, trim off the dead leaves so new foliage can grow.

Also, don’t feed plants during triple-digit heat or plants showing wilt. Extra nutrients can add to stress, too, if there’s not sufficient moisture in the soil.

(The exception: Adding liquid concentrate booster such as SuperThrive to that first emergency water treatment can speed recovery for plant’s that dried out badly.)

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

FALL

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth

WINTER

March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds

March 4: Potatoes from the garden

Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space

Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting

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Garden checklist for week of Nov. 30

It's going to get colder after the fog (finally) dissipates. Without the fog, damp ground will finally have a chance to dry out – and no rain is in the forecast for at least a week.

Make the most of this break in the weather and tackle late fall chores:

* Protect tender plants from possible frost damage. Don’t leave poinsettias outdoors.

* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.

* Clear gutters and storm drains.

* Prune dead or broken branches from trees.

* For holiday blooms indoors, plant paperwhite narcissus bulbs now. Fill a shallow bowl or dish with 2 inches of rocks or pebbles. Place bulbs in the dish with the root end nestled in the rocks. Add water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Place the dish in a sunny window. Add water as needed.

* Plant bulbs at two-week intervals to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.

* Seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.

* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.

* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.

* Plant garlic and onions.

* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.

* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.

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