So un-trendy, but incredibly easy to grow
Hybridized zonal geranium flowers come in many splashes of color. This variety is called 'Sunrise White+Zest.' Kathy Morrison
This is another installment in our weekly Flowers In My Back Yard series, devoted to everything that blooms.
You want green? Lots of interesting, bushy green? Plus flowers -- big, colorful flowers? Oh, and a minimum of care? You want zonal geraniums.
Zonal geraniums actually are Pelargonium hybrids, but have been commonly called geraniums so long that if you're talking about real geraniums, you have to refer to those by one of their other common names (such as cranesbills, right) to avoid confusion.
Zonal geraniums are not trendy. These flowering perennials certainly haven't been since I was a kid and noticed the red-orange flowers in my grandmother's garden. That color and the terra cotta pots they occupied still say "1960s gardening" to me.
A few decades later a co-worker gave me an unusual zonal geranium, one displaying a magenta flower. Petals were accented with a orange-coral teardrop. I'd never seen anything like it. I was intrigued.
That geranium turned out to be the first Plant I Couldn't Kill. Not that I wanted to, but I was still an inexperienced gardener. My plants died not so much from neglect as ignorance.
So the Plant I Couldn't Kill moved with us from Southern California to the Sacramento area, along with a few of my hardier roses. I placed it on the covered front porch, where I could see it from my kitchen.
That winter we had a hard freeze, the kind Sacramento hardly ever sees anymore. The geranium, still not completely acclimated, took a hit. Much of the fuzzy foliage died and the fleshy stems collapsed. I was crushed. Turns out zonal geraniums are from South Africa originally and prefer moderately warm temperatures. In colder climates (8b and colder), they're treated as annuals.
But this climate (9b) came through for me. The plant's roots and enough of the stem were still alive, and it grew back amazingly well.
It also was the first plant I learned to propagate. How easy is this? If, say, a ball lands in the plant and a stalk breaks off, just turn around and jam it several inches down into an available pot filled with moist potting soil. (Pull off any lower leaves first.) It will root and flower, and you'll have a clone of the original plant. I've done this more often than I care to admit.
Nowdays I also have zonal geraniums of white, white-and-pink, hot mauve-pink, and salmon-peach, the last one a plant that rooted under the orange tree several years ago and insists on staying there. (No red-orange, though -- sorry, Grandma.) Other colors available include dark red, maroon, hot pink, coral and orange, with many variations.
My zonal geraniums get some shade during the day, but the plants can thrive in full sun. (A bit of shade in our July heat is welcome.) They don't need a lot of water or fertilizer; irrigate when the soil is dry to the touch. Overwatering can produce root rot. A small dose of balanced fertilizer every two months from spring until fall is plenty, but they will still flower without it.
Here are other things to know about zonal geraniums:
-- The plants are named for the darker rings or "zones" that often appear on their leaves.
-- They are not pollinator plants. I've never seen bees on them -- apparently the flowers have very little pollen. However, I have seen little green worms, which eat the leaves. If you spot chewing damage on your plants, look closely. Pick off the caterpillars and throw them to the birds -- who can help keep the pests controlled. Extreme cases: Get some bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) powder and dust the leaves. (Environmental caution: Bt kills any caterpillars who eat it, even those that are due to turn into butterflies.)
-- Deadheading tidies the plant and helps produce more flowers, but the plants will self-deadhead if you leave the spent stems on there long enough. (I told you they were easy care.)
-- The plants are spectacular in containers, where their bushiness is shown off the best. Hanging pots, too, though the soil will dry out faster. Planted in the ground, zonal geraniums can get rangy and will require periodic reshaping. (Pot up or give away those trimmings.)
I found an interesting article on the history of zonal geraniums in horticulture, available here from the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact
Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower
July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show
July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)
July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy
July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies
June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden
June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Aug. 9
During this break in the heat, fertilize your garden. Make sure to water before and after applying fertilizer.
*Feed citrus trees their last round of fertilizer for the year. This will give a boost to the fruit that’s now forming.
* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers. Also, give them a boost with phosphate-rich fertilizer to help fruiting.
* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.
* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don't let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.
* Camellia leaves looking a little yellow? Feed them some chelated iron. That goes for azaleas and gardenias, too.
* Pinch off dead flowers from perennials and annuals to lengthen their summer bloom.
* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot. Then feed fruit trees with slow-release fertilizer for better production for next year.
* To prolong bloom into fall, feed begonias, fuchsias, annuals and container plants. Always water before fertilizing.
* Fertilize fall-blooming perennials, too. Chrysanthemums can be fed until the buds start to open.
* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials, then give them a boost of fertilizer. Make sure to water plants before feeding. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.
* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.
* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.
* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips.
* Plant potatoes.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Add asparagus to your edible garden
Soggy soil and what to do about it
Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
We don't talk (enough) about beets
Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Enhance your food with edible flowers
Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
How to grow summer salad greens
Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
Help pollinators help your garden
Battling early-season tomato pests
Where are the bees when you need them?
How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
Grow culinary herbs in containers
When to plant summer vegetables
Don't be fooled by these garden myths
Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth