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FIMBY: Where are the bees when you need them?

Enticing pollinators takes some work -- and some flowers -- especially when the honey bee population is scarce

A carpenter bee makes one of several stops on a "Hot Lips" salvia bush. The white flower is a less-common sport on a shrub that typically produces vivid red flowers, sometimes with white accents.

A carpenter bee makes one of several stops on a "Hot Lips" salvia bush. The white flower is a less-common sport on a shrub that typically produces vivid red flowers, sometimes with white accents. Kathy Morrison

This is the latest installment of our Food in My Back Yard series on edible gardening.

Tomatoes are wind-pollinated; oranges are self-pollinating.

But many other types of edible plants need bees or other flying pollinators to produce a crop. Where do they come from, and how to get them to stick around?

California has about1,600 types of native bees, most of which do not live in hives or colonies. Honey bees, which are not native to North America, are the bees that commercial beekeepers raise and rent out to pollinate orchards and other agricultural interests.

However, as beekeepers were preparing for the 2025 almond pollination season, reports were coming in about "sudden and severe honey bee colony losses." According to Project Apis m.,  "This additional loss puts many beekeepers at a loss rate of 70%-100%," reviving memories of the Colony Collapse Disorder crisis in the early 2000s.

Bees can fly up to 5 miles in search of food, but this may mean there are fewer honey bees around to visit home gardens.

But the backyard gardeners who were hoping for a nice crop of melons or blackberries this summer can still get help from bees -- if they help the bees first.

Those 1,600 native species are around, after all. Native insects prefer native plants -- so it makes sense to populate a garden with flowering California natives such as Salvia clevelandii (Cleveland sage), with its aromatic purple-blue flowers, and Matilija poppy, its crinkled white flowers with gold stamens resembling fried eggs. Tidy tips, California poppies, seaside daisies and ceanothus are just a few of the other natives that bees find irresistible.

Smaller bees tend to like smaller or flat flowers. All bees seem to like white or purple flowers -- watch a nursery table to see where the bees show up. I once bought a dark purple salvia hybrid simply because it had been buzzing with bees at a nursery, and that plant still is a garden favorite. 

With native and other floral treats like these around, bees will find the home garden. Once they are aware of the banquet available, their friends will show up, too.

That's all great for landscape planning, the gardener might say, but how to entice bees NOW? It's already late spring.

Plant sunflowers -- as many as will fit in the garden (they grow fast and do get large), and for heaven's sake don't plant the "pollen-free" hybrids. I like "Lemon Queen" and "Autumn Beauty" varieties for color and bee-attraction. Sunflowers also attract birds (another pollinator, they like to eat the green leaves). Big colorful zinnias such as the State Fair variety are another option; they bring in the butterflies as well as bees.

Here are some other tips for helping and enticing bees and other pollinators:

-- Water sources are important for bees. A shallow dish or an extra plant saucer makes a great water source for bees and other insects: Fill it at least halfway with clean rocks or marbles or even wine corks. The bees need a place to rest while they drink, and you don't want them to drown.

-- Don't deadhead every plant in your garden. Let some of them flower for the pollinators to enjoy. Herb flowers such as chamomile, lavender, rosemary, parsley and cilantro are pollinator favorites. African blue basil and cultivars 'Wild Magic' and 'Magic Mountain' basils are grown for their flowers as bee attractants.

-- Look for plants that flower in fall and winter, too. Pineapple sage, with its spiky red flowers, and 'Howard McMinn' manzanita, with white ones, are examples for these two seasons respectively.

-- Remember that pollinators such as bees avoid extreme heat. During a heat spike, such as the one predicted this weekend, vine crops such as squash or melons will not be getting pollinated. Take on a pollinator role yourself: Grab a watercolor brush or even a cotton swab and move pollen from the male flower (skinny stalk) to the female flower (tiny squash visible under the flower).

--- This should go without saying, but I'm going to say it anyway: Do not use pesticides and herbicides in the garden if at all possible -- not while you're also trying to bring in pollinators. Systemic herbicides, which don't involve spraying, are just as bad as the others: The herbicide gets into the plant's system (not to mention the soil) and of course into its flowers and pollen. There are many ways to handle plant problems without these  chemicals.

The Sacramento County master gardeners has a publication online that suggests how to attract bees and other pollinators. Go here and look for Garden Note (GN) 156.

For a deep dive into flowering plants and the bees that love them, I recommend "California Bees & Blooms: A Guide for Gardeners and Naturalists," published by Heyday in collaboration with the California Native Plant Society. It's out of print, but can be found at the Sacramento Public Library and for purchase on used-book sites.

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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth