Enticing pollinators takes some work -- and some flowers -- especially when the honey bee population is scarce
A carpenter bee makes one of several stops on a "Hot Lips" salvia bush. The white flower is a less-common sport on a shrub that typically produces vivid red flowers, sometimes with white accents. Kathy Morrison
This is the latest installment of our Food in My Back Yard series on edible gardening.
Tomatoes are wind-pollinated; oranges are self-pollinating.
But many other types of edible plants need bees or other flying pollinators to produce a crop. Where do they come from, and how to get them to stick around?
California has about1,600 types of native bees, most of which do not live in hives or colonies. Honey bees, which are not native to North America, are the bees that commercial beekeepers raise and rent out to pollinate orchards and other agricultural interests.
However, as beekeepers were preparing for the 2025 almond pollination season, reports were coming in about "sudden and severe honey bee colony losses." According to Project Apis m., "This additional loss puts many beekeepers at a loss rate of 70%-100%," reviving memories of the Colony Collapse Disorder crisis in the early 2000s.
Bees can fly up to 5 miles in search of food, but this may mean there are fewer honey bees around to visit home gardens.
But the backyard gardeners who were hoping for a nice crop of melons or blackberries this summer can still get help from bees -- if they help the bees first.
Those 1,600 native species are around, after all. Native insects prefer native plants -- so it makes sense to populate a garden with flowering California natives such as Salvia clevelandii (Cleveland sage), with its aromatic purple-blue flowers, and Matilija poppy, its crinkled white flowers with gold stamens resembling fried eggs. Tidy tips, California poppies, seaside daisies and ceanothus are just a few of the other natives that bees find irresistible.
Smaller bees tend to like smaller or flat flowers. All bees seem to like white or purple flowers -- watch a nursery table to see where the bees show up. I once bought a dark purple salvia hybrid simply because it had been buzzing with bees at a nursery, and that plant still is a garden favorite.
With native and other floral treats like these around, bees will find the home garden. Once they are aware of the banquet available, their friends will show up, too.
That's all great for landscape planning, the gardener might say, but how to entice bees NOW? It's already late spring.
Plant sunflowers -- as many as will fit in the garden (they grow fast and do get large), and for heaven's sake don't plant the "pollen-free" hybrids. I like "Lemon Queen" and "Autumn Beauty" varieties for color and bee-attraction. Sunflowers also attract birds (another pollinator, they like to eat the green leaves). Big colorful zinnias such as the State Fair variety are another option; they bring in the butterflies as well as bees.
Here are some other tips for helping and enticing bees and other pollinators:
-- Water sources are important for bees. A shallow dish or an extra plant saucer makes a great water source for bees and other insects: Fill it at least halfway with clean rocks or marbles or even wine corks. The bees need a place to rest while they drink, and you don't want them to drown.
-- Don't deadhead every plant in your garden. Let some of them flower for the pollinators to enjoy. Herb flowers such as chamomile, lavender, rosemary, parsley and cilantro are pollinator favorites. African blue basil and cultivars 'Wild Magic' and 'Magic Mountain' basils are grown for their flowers as bee attractants.
-- Look for plants that flower in fall and winter, too. Pineapple sage, with its spiky red flowers, and 'Howard McMinn' manzanita, with white ones, are examples for these two seasons respectively.
-- Remember that pollinators such as bees avoid extreme heat. During a heat spike, such as the one predicted this weekend, vine crops such as squash or melons will not be getting pollinated. Take on a pollinator role yourself: Grab a watercolor brush or even a cotton swab and move pollen from the male flower (skinny stalk) to the female flower (tiny squash visible under the flower).
--- This should go without saying, but I'm going to say it anyway: Do not use pesticides and herbicides in the garden if at all possible -- not while you're also trying to bring in pollinators. Systemic herbicides, which don't involve spraying, are just as bad as the others: The herbicide gets into the plant's system (not to mention the soil) and of course into its flowers and pollen. There are many ways to handle plant problems without these chemicals.
The Sacramento County master gardeners has a publication online that suggests how to attract bees and other pollinators. Go here and look for Garden Note (GN) 156.
For a deep dive into flowering plants and the bees that love them, I recommend "California Bees & Blooms: A Guide for Gardeners and Naturalists," published by Heyday in collaboration with the California Native Plant Society. It's out of print, but can be found at the Sacramento Public Library and for purchase on used-book sites.
Comments
0 comments have been posted.Sacramento Digs Gardening to your inbox.
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Feb. 8
Dodge those raindrops and get things done! Your garden needs you.
* Start your spring (and summer) garden. Transplant or direct-seed several flowers, including snapdragon, candytuft, lilies, astilbe, larkspur, Shasta and painted daisies, stocks, bleeding heart and coral bells.
* In the vegetable garden, plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers, and strawberry and rhubarb roots. Transplant cabbage and its close cousins – broccoli, kale and Brussels sprouts – as well as lettuce (both loose leaf and head).
* Indoors, start peppers, tomatoes and eggplant from seed.
* Plant artichokes, asparagus and horseradish from root divisions. Plant potatoes from tubers and onions from sets (small bulbs). The onions will sprout quickly and can be used as green onions in March.
* From seed, plant beets, chard, lettuce, mustard, peas, radishes and turnips.
* Annuals are showing up in nurseries, but wait until the weather warms up a bit before planting. Instead, set out flowering perennials such as columbine and delphinium.
* Plant summer-flowering bulbs including cannas, calla lilies and gladiolus.
* This is the last chance to spray fruit trees before they bloom. Treat peach and nectarine trees with copper-based fungicide. Spray apricot trees at bud swell to prevent brown rot. Apply horticultural oil to control scale, mites and aphids on fruit trees soon after a rain. But remember: Oils need at least 24 hours to dry to be effective. Don’t spray during foggy weather or when rain is forecast.
* Feed spring-blooming shrubs and fall-planted perennials with slow-release fertilizer. Feed mature trees and shrubs after spring growth starts.
* Remove aphids from blooming bulbs with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap.
* Fertilize strawberries and asparagus.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth