Dependable flowering shrubs bloom in late winter, early spring and sometimes more
This Bloom-a-thon double pink repeat blooming azalea was grown by Matsuda's. The Sacramento wholesale nursery, now owned by Green Acres, made its name on azaleas. Photo courtesy Matsuda's Nursery
This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, devoted to flowering plants.
Sacramento may be Camellia City, but it’s also azalea country.
Throughout the area’s older neighborhoods, these long-lived shrubs are now putting on massive displays of solid blooms.
Slow-growing, these resilient shrubs are also relatively drought-resistant – as long as they get enough shade. Once established, they can thrive for decades with only weekly watering. (During winter, shut the irrigation off if rain is normal.) Mulch is a must to keep their roots cool and soil evenly moist.
Like camellias, azaleas are native to Asian forests at about the same latitude as Sacramento. They love our California climate (wet winter, dry summer) and a spot facing east. A bonus for foothill gardeners: Deer don’t like azaleas. (That’s how these shrubs survive in forests.)
As with all plants (and other enterprises), key to azalea success is location, location, location. And luckily for Sacramento-area gardeners, one of the country’s best azalea-growing nurseries is right here.
Sacramento has earned a nationwide reputation for producing excellent azaleas thanks to Matsuda’s Nursery, which grows wholesale plants for sellers throughout California and northern Nevada.
Purchased by Green Acres Nursery & Supply in 2014, the 160-acre wholesale nursery produces a wide variety of perennials, shrubs and trees – more than a million plants annually. Founded in 1957, Matsuda’s Nursery made its name on azaleas, offering 80-plus varieties.
Green Acres offers Matsuda’s azaleas at its seven local stores as well as through other outlets. Matsuda’s also sells direct to landscape contractors.
Now is the best time to shop for azaleas – while they’re in bloom. Azaleas come in countless shades of pink and purple as well as soft reds, orange, coral and salmon plus pristine whites and combinations. (The white or lighter shade varieties tend to be able to take more sun.)
Developed for repeat flowering, the Encore or Bloom-a-thon hybrid series bloom in bursts throughout the year. Otherwise, most azaleas bloom once, usually in March or April. But that bloom period can last weeks.
As an under-story plant, azaleas are most at home under trees or in dappled shade. They can do well in an east-facing location where they get sun but plenty of afternoon shade. They can even bloom in full shade but do their best flowering with at least a little good morning light.
Azaleas need little if any pruning, but can be trimmed into hedges – and solid blocks of flowers. They also do very well in pots on a patio or balcony. (Satsuki azaleas make excellent blooming bonsai.)
Early spring or fall are the best times to plant this evergreen shrub. Also like camellias, they prefer soil on the acidic side (such as under a pine or redwood tree). With a mounding habit, azaleas can grow 2 to 8 feet tall, depending on the variety.
Here are more tips for azalea success from Matsuda’s and Green Acres:
* Best light is filtered or morning sun.
* Azaleas don’t like standing in water. They demand good drainage and slightly acidic soil (pH 5 or 6). Add compost or other organic matter to soil before planting.
* When planting, dig a wide hole only as deep as the rootball. Add organic acid soil planting mix and combine with some native soil. Plant with the crown (the base of the plant) slightly above the soil line to promote drainage.
* Mulch with organic material such as aged leaves, pine needles, wood chips or bark.
* Feed after bloom with fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants. If foliage looks yellow, give them some chelated iron (it’s fast acting and easy for the plant to absorb). Yellow leaves also may be a sign of poor drainage or soil that's too alkaline.
* Azaleas often can go years without pruning but trimming the branches in summer after bloom or pinching them back will produce more flowers.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies
June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden
June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of July 12
Get out early in the morning to take care of garden chores. Temperatures are expected to stay below 80 degrees before 10 a.m.
* Remember to water early and deep; your garden depends on you.
* It’s not too late to add a splash of color. Plant petunias, snapdragons, zinnias and marigolds.
* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, winter squash and sunflowers.
* Keep your vegetable garden watered, mulched and weeded. Water before 8 a.m. to reduce the chance of fungal infection and to conserve moisture.
* Water before fertilizing vegetables and blooming annuals, perennials and shrubs to give them a boost. Feeding flowering plants every other week will extend their bloom.
* Feed vegetable plants bone meal or other fertilizers high in phosphate to stimulate more blooms and fruiting.
* Don’t let tomatoes wilt or dry out completely. Give tomatoes a deep watering two to three times a week. Harvest vegetables promptly to encourage plants to produce more. Squash especially tends to grow rapidly in hot weather. Keep an eye on zucchini.
* If your melons and squash aren’t setting fruit, give the bees a hand. With a small, soft paintbrush, gather some pollen from male flowers, then brush it inside the female flowers, which have a tiny swelling at the base of their petals. (That's the embryo melon or squash.) Within days, that little swelling should start growing.
* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushy plants and more flowers in September.
* Remove spent flowers from roses, daylilies and other bloomers as they finish flowering.
* Pinch off blooms from basil so the plant will grow more leaves.
* Cut back lavender after flowering to promote a second bloom.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth