Sacramento Rose Society hosts 78th annual show, sale; time for spring rose care tips
This hybrid tea rose is called Secret, which peaked this year on March 31. In addition to its beautiful form, it has a wonderful fragrance. Check out Saturday's Sacramento Rose Show to see and smell more beauties -- and learn more about growing roses. Kathy Morrison
This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, dedicated to blooming plants.
Another reminder that this has been an unusual spring: Roses have already hit their peak of bloom.
Most years, the first flush is still building up to mass displays the last week of April – the traditional date for the Sacramento Rose Show. This spring, the roses bloomed three weeks ahead of schedule – like everything else.
Nevertheless, the show must go on! Saturday, April 25, the Sacramento Rose Society will host its 78th annual Sacramento Rose Show. After one year in Carmichael, this huge show returns to Shepard Garden and Arts Center in Sacramento’s McKinley Park.
Entries will be accepted from 7 to 10 a.m. Saturday; first timers are welcome. (Make sure to arrive early to get help with entering.) All roses must be home grown.
The show is open to the public from 1 to 5 p.m. Admission and parking are free. Shepard Center is located at 3330 McKinley Blvd., Sacramento.
Directions and details: https://www.sgaac.org/
Besides its displays of hundreds of roses at their peak of beauty, this show also offers gorgeous garden-grown roses for sale by the stem at a bargain price – $1 each or $10 for a dozen. Find some potted bushes for sale, too.
The Sacramento Floral Arts Guild will display arrangements interpreting the show’s 2026 theme – “Happy 250th Birthday, America!” Each category is inspired by “Patriotic Music of America,” such as “Yankee Doodle” and “America the Beautiful.”
Of course, this show is a wonderful time to meet local rose experts and learn more about growing roses, America’s favorite flower.
In fact, the rose (no particular variety or color) is the official flower of the United States. Roses continue to be our nation’s best-selling flower, evoking romance and special occasions.
Gardeners love them, too, especially in California, where this flowering shrub naturally thrives.
Our climate – particularly in the Sacramento Valley – sets up roses for success. We have enough cold in winter to coax bushes into dormancy (the best time to prune) and enough heat in summer to wipe out most fungal diseases (making for healthier, more attractive plants with more flowers).
Why roses? No other flowering shrub offers as much bloom power per square foot. Sacramento roses typically bloom from April through late November or December. They look good in the landscape and great in a vase. (And if not sprayed or treated with systemic pesticides, roses are edible, too.)
Roses offer amazing diversity; more than 30,000 varieties have been named. Their flowers range from tiny micro-minis barely an inch across to huge blooms with more than 100 petals. They come in every color from pure white to deep purple with countless shades of pink, yellow, red and orange in between. (Only blue and black are missing, but rose breeders are working on that.)
Modern introductions are more disease-resistant and easy-care than their Victorian ancestors, making rose growing and appreciation easier, too.
Saturday’s rose show is a wonderful opportunity to discover new rose varieties. See (and smell) them up close.
No matter their size or color, roses need three things to produce lots of flowers: Sun, soil and water.
– Sun: Most varieties need six of more hours of sun to thrive. In Sacramento, roses prefer an eastern exposure and a little afternoon shade; otherwise, their leaves may sunburn.
– Soil: Roses demand good drainage; they hate standing in water. They benefit from loamy, organic-rich soil and mulch. (It helps maintain soil moisture and keeps roots comfortable.) Roses also grow well in pots – as long as they have room for their roots. Rose roots spread as far and wide as the bush’s canes or branches above ground.
– Water: A mature, well-established rose bush needs about the same irrigation as a tomato plant – 5 gallons a week. But once they put down deep roots, roses can be very drought-tolerant and resilient, surviving on twice monthly or monthly deep irrigation. They won’t bloom as much on restricted water, but as soon as they get more to drink, the buds come right back.
Check soil moisture regularly around bushes; many rose problems trace back to poor irrigation (either not enough or too much). If installing drip irrigation around roses, make sure to use multiple emitters per bush, spaced at least on either side or all the way around. If only one emitter is used, the bush will grow in that direction and nowhere else.
– Fertilizer: Roses have a reputation as “heavy feeders.” They’ll consume as much fertilizer as they’re fed, but that doesn’t necessarily mean more flowers. Too much nitrogen leads to lots of leaves and few buds. Chemical fertilizers (such as Miracle Gro) can prompt rapid growth – including weak stems and thin cell walls. Somehow, aphids and other sucking insects know that’s just where to attack.
Instead, put roses on a slow-and-steady growth diet with monthly feeding April through October. Use a slow-release organic fertilizer formulated for roses (it offers trace minerals that boost colorful blooms). Roses benefit from extra phosphate (the middle number on the fertilizer bag’s list of macronutrients).
– Bloom cycle: Most rose varieties will bloom every six to eight weeks in spring and summer. The key: Removing spent flowers. That’s called “deadheading.” Below the spent bloom, trim the stem down to just above a leaf stem with five leaflets, preferably pointing away from the bush. (That’s where a new bloom stem will sprout.)
– Pests: Aphids, as previously mentioned, are the most common spring rose pest. Knock them off with a strong spray of water. Their soft bodies won’t survive the fall.
Or spray them with some homemade bug soap: Put three cloves of garlic in a blender with 1 cup water. Process. Strain. Add 1 teaspoon mild liquid dish detergent (such as Ivory or Dr. Bonner’s peppermint) to the garlic water. Put in a sprayer and squirt directly on the aphids. This solution doesn’t harm the plant (or beneficial insects) and leaves just enough residual garlic and detergent to dissuade more aphids from that bush.
As for rose diseases, that’s another FLIMBY post. In the meantime, check out these tips from the UC Cooperative Extension master gardeners: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7465.html
Going along with their popularity, roses are among the most studied flowers. Learn more here: https://rose.org/
And connect with the Sacramento Rose Society: https://sacramentorosesociety.org/
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of April 19
After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!
* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.
* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.
* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.
* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.
* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.
* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.
* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.
* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.
* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.
* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.
* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.
* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.
* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.
* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth