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FIMBY: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Cool-season veggie also improves the soil

These Sugar Snap peas are sprouting in a grow bag. They soon will need some kind of support to climb. For peas in a grow bag or a pot, a 4-ring tomato cage works well.

These Sugar Snap peas are sprouting in a grow bag. They soon will need some kind of support to climb. For peas in a grow bag or a pot, a 4-ring tomato cage works well. Kathy Morrison

This is another installment on our Food in My Back Yard series, dedicated to edible gardening.

We’re now in pea planting season, that time of year when soil is still warm but the weather is noticeably cooler.

Those baby pea plants also benefit from autumn rain, like what we’re expecting this week. Peas need consistently moist soil to be their best.

Peas – and their showy cousin, sweet peas – will grow rapidly now, if you can get them to sprout.

That’s the trick with peas – getting them started. Peas have a tough outer coat that can prevent them from sprouting (good for long-term storage, but not for planting).

Give nature an assist. Before planting peas, gently edge each pea with a nail file. The idea is to create a little nick that the emerging sprout can use as an exit. Yes, it seems tedious and time consuming, but that helps the sprout break through the seed coat. (It would be a lot more work if you’re planting a whole field and not just a backyard patch or row.)

After the peas have been filed, wrap them in a damp paper towel and let them sit overnight. That moisture gives them a head start and they’ll sprout sooner. (You may even wait to plant them until you see the little root emerge, but make sure to keep the paper towel moist.)

Choose a sunny spot where the peas will get full sun all winter.

Plant peas 1 inch deep in loamy soil with good drainage (a must), but be stingy with the fertilizer. Peas are “nitrogen-fixing” plants; they have the ability to store nitrogen in their roots and tap into it as needed. If fed too much nitrogen (or manure), they’ll produce lush foliage but few actual peas.

That nitrogen-fixing attribute is also beneficial for your garden soil. Peas can help rejuvenate garden beds and help them be better next summer. (For it to have the most benefit, leave the pea roots in the soil next spring after the plants have finished producing.)

Once the peas are planted, keep the soil evenly moist. Peas love mulch; it keeps their roots warm and maintains that crucial soil moisture.

After they sprout, peas need support; they’re true climbers and should have a trellis, poles or cages so they can grow up. (If they don’t, they’ll crawl across the ground and produce few peas.) That upright growth is important for their pollination. Peas are self-pollinating and need that air flow around their blooms. Air flow also cuts down on fungal diseases such as powdery mildew.

Once peas start producing, keep picking. The more they’re harvested, the more pea plants will produce.

Before the first pods appear, peas still offer an edible crop – pea shoots. Those tender early tendrils and young leaves are an edible green, stir-fried or steamed.

(Stick to the young shoots. Older pea shoots are harder to digest. Don’t eat sweet pea leaves or shoots; they’re indigestible.)

Many pea varieties have edible pods, offering another early crop. Edible pod varieties (such as Sugar Snap) also have edible full-size peas if left on the vine. Snow peas are grown for their large pods with only small peas inside.

But English, shelling, garden or cottage peas (the ones you find in the freezer section) do not have edible pods.

Sugar Snaps are in fact a cross of snow peas and shelling peas, offering the best of both. Another plus: They can be eaten raw as well as cooked.

Plant now and expect to have peas in time for Valentine’s Day – or earlier.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

FALL

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth

WINTER

March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds

March 4: Potatoes from the garden

Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space

Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting

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Garden checklist for week of Dec. 14

Rain is due midweek, but there should be some partly sunny breaks between rain clouds, especially Thursday. Make the most of those opportunities and show your garden some TLC.

* Brighten the holidays with winter bloomers such as poinsettias, amaryllis, calendulas, Iceland poppies, pansies and primroses.

* Keep poinsettias in a sunny, warm location. Water thoroughly. After the holidays, feed your plants monthly so they’ll bloom again next December.

* Rake and remove dead leaves and stems from dormant perennials.

* Rake and compost leaves from trees, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.

* Clear gutters and storm drains.

* Prune dead or broken branches from trees.

* Plant bulbs at two-week intervals to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.

* Seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.

* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies, violas and snapdragons.

* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.

* Plant garlic and onions.

* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.

* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.

* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while they’re dormant.

* Clean and sharpen garden tools before storing for the winter.

* Bare-root season begins. Plant bare-root berries, kiwifruit, grapes, artichokes, horseradish and rhubarb.

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