Cool-season veggie also improves the soil
These Sugar Snap peas are sprouting in a grow bag. They soon will need some kind of support to climb. For peas in a grow bag or a pot, a 4-ring tomato cage works well. Kathy Morrison
This is another installment on our Food in My Back Yard series, dedicated to edible gardening.
We’re now in pea planting season, that time of year when soil is still warm but the weather is noticeably cooler.
Those baby pea plants also benefit from autumn rain, like what we’re expecting this week. Peas need consistently moist soil to be their best.
Peas – and their showy cousin, sweet peas – will grow rapidly now, if you can get them to sprout.
That’s the trick with peas – getting them started. Peas have a tough outer coat that can prevent them from sprouting (good for long-term storage, but not for planting).
Give nature an assist. Before planting peas, gently edge each pea with a nail file. The idea is to create a little nick that the emerging sprout can use as an exit. Yes, it seems tedious and time consuming, but that helps the sprout break through the seed coat. (It would be a lot more work if you’re planting a whole field and not just a backyard patch or row.)
After the peas have been filed, wrap them in a damp paper towel and let them sit overnight. That moisture gives them a head start and they’ll sprout sooner. (You may even wait to plant them until you see the little root emerge, but make sure to keep the paper towel moist.)
Choose a sunny spot where the peas will get full sun all winter.
Plant peas 1 inch deep in loamy soil with good drainage (a must), but be stingy with the fertilizer. Peas are “nitrogen-fixing” plants; they have the ability to store nitrogen in their roots and tap into it as needed. If fed too much nitrogen (or manure), they’ll produce lush foliage but few actual peas.
That nitrogen-fixing attribute is also beneficial for your garden soil. Peas can help rejuvenate garden beds and help them be better next summer. (For it to have the most benefit, leave the pea roots in the soil next spring after the plants have finished producing.)
Once the peas are planted, keep the soil evenly moist. Peas love mulch; it keeps their roots warm and maintains that crucial soil moisture.
After they sprout, peas need support; they’re true climbers and should have a trellis, poles or cages so they can grow up. (If they don’t, they’ll crawl across the ground and produce few peas.) That upright growth is important for their pollination. Peas are self-pollinating and need that air flow around their blooms. Air flow also cuts down on fungal diseases such as powdery mildew.
Once peas start producing, keep picking. The more they’re harvested, the more pea plants will produce.
Before the first pods appear, peas still offer an edible crop – pea shoots. Those tender early tendrils and young leaves are an edible green, stir-fried or steamed.
(Stick to the young shoots. Older pea shoots are harder to digest. Don’t eat sweet pea leaves or shoots; they’re indigestible.)
Many pea varieties have edible pods, offering another early crop. Edible pod varieties (such as Sugar Snap) also have edible full-size peas if left on the vine. Snow peas are grown for their large pods with only small peas inside.
But English, shelling, garden or cottage peas (the ones you find in the freezer section) do not have edible pods.
Sugar Snaps are in fact a cross of snow peas and shelling peas, offering the best of both. Another plus: They can be eaten raw as well as cooked.
Plant now and expect to have peas in time for Valentine’s Day – or earlier.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
FALL
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Dec. 14
Rain is due midweek, but there should be some partly sunny breaks between rain clouds, especially Thursday. Make the most of those opportunities and show your garden some TLC.
* Brighten the holidays with winter bloomers such as poinsettias, amaryllis, calendulas, Iceland poppies, pansies and primroses.
* Keep poinsettias in a sunny, warm location. Water thoroughly. After the holidays, feed your plants monthly so they’ll bloom again next December.
* Rake and remove dead leaves and stems from dormant perennials.
* Rake and compost leaves from trees, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.
* Clear gutters and storm drains.
* Prune dead or broken branches from trees.
* Plant bulbs at two-week intervals to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.
* Seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.
* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies, violas and snapdragons.
* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.
* Plant garlic and onions.
* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.
* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.
* Prune non-flowering trees and shrubs while they’re dormant.
* Clean and sharpen garden tools before storing for the winter.
* Bare-root season begins. Plant bare-root berries, kiwifruit, grapes, artichokes, horseradish and rhubarb.
Contact Us
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