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FIMBY: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Assess which trees, plants may need protection

Basil is very frost-sensitive; harvest it now or take cuttings before cold weather strikes.

Basil is very frost-sensitive; harvest it now or take cuttings before cold weather strikes. Kathy Morrison

This is another in our weekly Food in My Back Yard series, dedicated to edible gardening.

Temperatures are peaking in the 70s for a few more days, but we all know what's coming: late fall and winter cold.

Lower temperatures and less daylight combine to put stress on plants. The edible garden can survive cold weather if the gardener takes some prepatory steps -- and follows through when the cold finally arrives.

What to do now?

-- Walk around the garden and make a mental list of which plants are potential frost victims.

For example: The basil that's doing so well? Frost usually will decimate it. Decide whether to harvest the leaves now or let nature takes its course. You also can take basil cuttings (pinch off any flowers), arrange them in a vase as you would flowers and place it in a sunny window -- you can have fresh basil this winter for much longer than you might think.

Note: If you're growing African blue basil for the bees and other pollinators, now's the time to take fresh 6- to 8-inch cuttings for next year's plants. This variety of basil is not grown from seed, only from cuttings, but it produces roots easily in water. Keep it in water after roots appear or move to potting soil in a container with good light for longer life.

Pepper plants also are quite frost-sensitive. With in-ground plants, harvest anything on the plant before cold weather hits, and call it a year. If the plant is in a container, and it's one worth keeping, move it to a sheltered area and keep it watered, but know that it likely will shut down production until the weather warms again.

As for the backyard orchard: Any young citrus trees likely will need protection, especially lime trees. If they're in containers, can you move them easily to a protected spot? If in the ground, can they easily be covered? Decide on a course of action now.

Keep a close eye on any nearly ripe fruit, such as persimmons and pomegranates. Be prepared to harvest ripe fruit before frost hits. Lemons and limes can be harvested now.

-- Put together a frost protection kit that's easily accessible.

This could include specialized frost cloths (available at hardware stores), blankets or old sheets, sets of old-fashioned Christmas lights and their extension cords. Support devices for the cloths also are useful, to keep sheets or blankets from touching the tree limbs. I've been known to repurpose tomato cages to support frost covers for smaller trees, but look around and use what you have. Trellises, PVC pipe and stakes also work.

-- Keep plants irrigated. Frost injury occurs when ice crystals form on leaf surfaces and draw moisture out of the leaf. The damage from dehydration is what causes frost burn.

The exceptions to this rule are cactus, succulents and tropical plants such as bananas and hibiscus (roselle), which could rot if the soil is soggy. Do protect those plants from frost as much as possible.

Many edible plants grown this time of year aren't bothered by cold and actually may taste better with a kiss of frost. These include carrots, potatoes, beets, parsnips, turnips, onions, garlic, radish, rutabaga, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, bok choy and collard greens.

-- Hang a good thermometer outside or keep an instant-read thermometer available to check air temperature. Your garden may be in a microclimate that differs slightly from your general region.

What to do when frost is forecast?

-- Move any container and hanging plants to shelter, such as under eaves, into the garage or onto a covered patio.

-- Wind those old-style Christmas lights around the trunk and through the branches of the trees/shrubs to be protected. Wrap the trunks of young trees with cloths such as old towels.

-- Cover sensitive plants before sunset so radiant heat will help keep them comfortable. Ideally, covers should go to the ground, but that's not alway possible; even some coverage will help.

-- Don't forget to uncover the plants after sunrise so they won't be suffocated. (Specialized frost cloths do let in some air.)

-- If frost damage occurs, don't cut it off now. The damaged leaves or branches will protect the remaining parts of the plant during the rest of the winter. Wait until spring to remove the damaged parts.

For more details on frost and frost protection, check out this article from the UC Sacramento County master gardeners.

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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth