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FIMBY: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

The type of plant, the garden space and the gardener's goals all affect the answer

See that carrot sixpack at left? The roots already are wrapped around the inside of the  cells. Carrots are grown for roots, so these are doomed. If transplants are the only choice, go for the small ones at right. But seeds are a much better option.

See that carrot sixpack at left? The roots already are wrapped around the inside of the cells. Carrots are grown for roots, so these are doomed. If transplants are the only choice, go for the small ones at right. But seeds are a much better option. Kathy Morrison

This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, focused on edible gardening.

October starts tomorrow, and this vegetable gardener is finally thinking of planting for the cool season ahead.

Some folks started their plants from seed back in August or even late July. So transplants are the only choice for the late planter, right?

Nope -- though it depends on what you want to grow, how much space is available and how much time you want to spend on the cooler garden.

A spin through a nursery's vegetable section and seed racks showed what is available now -- many good choices, a few stay-away ones. Let's look at the options.

Best for transplants

Transplants are perfect for a gardener with small spaces or a limited desire for winter vegetables.  Several vegetables that take a long time to germinate and/or to grow -- and require considerable space -- are good candidates for transplants. Buy a sixpack of cauliflower and maybe trade three of those plants with a friend who chose Brussels sprouts. Broccoli, kohlrabi and cabbage also fall into this category.

Best for seeding

The vegetables that do best seeded directly in the garden generally are ones that produce many plants for harvest, while taking up less space. Growing quickly is a bonus, but that's not always the case: Carrots take longer to mature than radishes, for example.

Cool season seed packets
These are all vegetables best direct seeded. Note
that the Scarlet Nantes carrots are on seed tape.

The best fast-growing vegetables to sow are the leafy greens: Loose-leaf lettuce of all varieties, arugula, spinach, kale, collards, mustard and pak choi. Now is also when you can start seeding cilantro -- Sacramento's mild, cool fall is perfect for it.

Any of these vegetables can be succession planted,  if space is available. Many also do well in containers, even window boxes.

A side note on carrots: Avoid transplants. The photo above shows why: The roots of the plant are what will be harvested, yet they are jammed into nursery sixpacks. The taller plants already have roots wrapped around the inside of the cellpack. Yet this is a plant that does not like its roots disturbed! The smaller plants have roots about 1 inch long, so if you're growing veggies with children, this size would be a good option. The plants already are viable -- carrot seeds can take 10 to 25 days to emerge -- but not so big that they are doomed. Plant gently.

Another note: Carrots must be thinned to have room to grow. So a cell with 12 tiny shoots might result in just two mature carrots; if you're lucky, 12 from a sixpack. Do the math: A seed packet is about $4 for many rows of carrots.

Turnips and parsnips are other root veggies that should be direct-seeded.

A fun discovery: Some of the smaller vegetable seeds (carrots and lettuce) now come on seed tape inside a regular seed packet. This makes planting (and spacing) even easier. Check out the seed racks.

Well, it depends

This third category is determined by the gardener's personal taste and patience. Love beets? Great, buy several seed packages, be sure to soak the seeds overnight, and then direct seed. Don't forget to thin them! Beet greens are edible, especially small, so this really is a double crop.

Impatient for beets? Are they favored by only one person in the house? A sixpack or two, say transplants of different varieties, could be enough to satisfy the beet lover, who will have less of a wait for germination.

Swiss chard also works like this. Several years ago I bought two 4-inch plants at a plant sale. The red-stalked variety grew and grew into a gorgeous 5-foot-tall plant that gave us plenty of chard. The yellow-stalked variety just sat there, but I didn't need more than I was getting.

Onions? It's too late to start seeds, but onion seedlings and onion sets (the small bulbs) can go in now. Likewise celery or fennel transplants.

And what of peas? They can be sown in late winter, but I think fall is better -- the weather is cooling off when they mature, not warming up. Transplants work fine for a small yield -- or snacking in the garden! -- but to get an excellent repeating harvest, seeds are the way to go. And pea shoots are great in salads.

The Sacramento County master gardeners have many publications on vegetable growing, but perhaps the most valuable one is Environmental Horticulture Note (EHN) #11, "Sacramento Vegetable Planting Schedule." Even with the seasons shifting a bit thanks to climate change, this is a great guide on when and how to plant. Find the link to the pdf on this page, under the "Master Gardener Publications, Studies and Videos" heading. Also check out GN 154,  "Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination."

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Flowers in My Back Yard Series

Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses

Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?

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Garden checklist for week of Feb. 8

Dodge those raindrops and get things done! Your garden needs you.

* Start your spring (and summer) garden. Transplant or direct-seed several flowers, including snapdragon, candytuft, lilies, astilbe, larkspur, Shasta and painted daisies, stocks, bleeding heart and coral bells.

* In the vegetable garden, plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers, and strawberry and rhubarb roots. Transplant cabbage and its close cousins – broccoli, kale and Brussels sprouts – as well as lettuce (both loose leaf and head).

* Indoors, start peppers, tomatoes and eggplant from seed.

* Plant artichokes, asparagus and horseradish from root divisions. Plant potatoes from tubers and onions from sets (small bulbs). The onions will sprout quickly and can be used as green onions in March.

* From seed, plant beets, chard, lettuce, mustard, peas, radishes and turnips.

* Annuals are showing up in nurseries, but wait until the weather warms up a bit before planting. Instead, set out flowering perennials such as columbine and delphinium.

* Plant summer-flowering bulbs including cannas, calla lilies and gladiolus.

* This is the last chance to spray fruit trees before they bloom. Treat peach and nectarine trees with copper-based fungicide. Spray apricot trees at bud swell to prevent brown rot. Apply horticultural oil to control scale, mites and aphids on fruit trees soon after a rain. But remember: Oils need at least 24 hours to dry to be effective. Don’t spray during foggy weather or when rain is forecast.

* Feed spring-blooming shrubs and fall-planted perennials with slow-release fertilizer. Feed mature trees and shrubs after spring growth starts.

* Remove aphids from blooming bulbs with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap.

* Fertilize strawberries and asparagus.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth