The type of plant, the garden space and the gardener's goals all affect the answer
See that carrot sixpack at left? The roots already are wrapped around the inside of the cells. Carrots are grown for roots, so these are doomed. If transplants are the only choice, go for the small ones at right. But seeds are a much better option. Kathy Morrison
This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, focused on edible gardening.
October starts tomorrow, and this vegetable gardener is finally thinking of planting for the cool season ahead.
Some folks started their plants from seed back in August or even late July. So transplants are the only choice for the late planter, right?
Nope -- though it depends on what you want to grow, how much space is available and how much time you want to spend on the cooler garden.
A spin through a nursery's vegetable section and seed racks showed what is available now -- many good choices, a few stay-away ones. Let's look at the options.
Best for transplants
Transplants are perfect for a gardener with small spaces or a limited desire for winter vegetables. Several vegetables that take a long time to germinate and/or to grow -- and require considerable space -- are good candidates for transplants. Buy a sixpack of cauliflower and maybe trade three of those plants with a friend who chose Brussels sprouts. Broccoli, kohlrabi and cabbage also fall into this category.
Best for seeding
The vegetables that do best seeded directly in the garden generally are ones that produce many plants for harvest, while taking up less space. Growing quickly is a bonus, but that's not always the case: Carrots take longer to mature than radishes, for example.
The best fast-growing vegetables to sow are the leafy greens: Loose-leaf lettuce of all varieties, arugula, spinach, kale, collards, mustard and pak choi. Now is also when you can start seeding cilantro -- Sacramento's mild, cool fall is perfect for it.
Any of these vegetables can be succession planted, if space is available. Many also do well in containers, even window boxes.
A side note on carrots: Avoid transplants. The photo above shows why: The roots of the plant are what will be harvested, yet they are jammed into nursery sixpacks. The taller plants already have roots wrapped around the inside of the cellpack. Yet this is a plant that does not like its roots disturbed! The smaller plants have roots about 1 inch long, so if you're growing veggies with children, this size would be a good option. The plants already are viable -- carrot seeds can take 10 to 25 days to emerge -- but not so big that they are doomed. Plant gently.
Another note: Carrots must be thinned to have room to grow. So a cell with 12 tiny shoots might result in just two mature carrots; if you're lucky, 12 from a sixpack. Do the math: A seed packet is about $4 for many rows of carrots.
Turnips and parsnips are other root veggies that should be direct-seeded.
A fun discovery: Some of the smaller vegetable seeds (carrots and lettuce) now come on seed tape inside a regular seed packet. This makes planting (and spacing) even easier. Check out the seed racks.
Well, it depends
This third category is determined by the gardener's personal taste and patience. Love beets? Great, buy several seed packages, be sure to soak the seeds overnight, and then direct seed. Don't forget to thin them! Beet greens are edible, especially small, so this really is a double crop.
Impatient for beets? Are they favored by only one person in the house? A sixpack or two, say transplants of different varieties, could be enough to satisfy the beet lover, who will have less of a wait for germination.
Swiss chard also works like this. Several years ago I bought two 4-inch plants at a plant sale. The red-stalked variety grew and grew into a gorgeous 5-foot-tall plant that gave us plenty of chard. The yellow-stalked variety just sat there, but I didn't need more than I was getting.
Onions? It's too late to start seeds, but onion seedlings and onion sets (the small bulbs) can go in now. Likewise celery or fennel transplants.
And what of peas? They can be sown in late winter, but I think fall is better -- the weather is cooling off when they mature, not warming up. Transplants work fine for a small yield -- or snacking in the garden! -- but to get an excellent repeating harvest, seeds are the way to go. And pea shoots are great in salads.
The Sacramento County master gardeners have many publications on vegetable growing, but perhaps the most valuable one is Environmental Horticulture Note (EHN) #11, "Sacramento Vegetable Planting Schedule." Even with the seasons shifting a bit thanks to climate change, this is a great guide on when and how to plant. Find the link to the pdf on this page, under the "Master Gardener Publications, Studies and Videos" heading. Also check out GN 154, "Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination."
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Garden checklist for week of Feb. 8
Dodge those raindrops and get things done! Your garden needs you.
* Start your spring (and summer) garden. Transplant or direct-seed several flowers, including snapdragon, candytuft, lilies, astilbe, larkspur, Shasta and painted daisies, stocks, bleeding heart and coral bells.
* In the vegetable garden, plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers, and strawberry and rhubarb roots. Transplant cabbage and its close cousins – broccoli, kale and Brussels sprouts – as well as lettuce (both loose leaf and head).
* Indoors, start peppers, tomatoes and eggplant from seed.
* Plant artichokes, asparagus and horseradish from root divisions. Plant potatoes from tubers and onions from sets (small bulbs). The onions will sprout quickly and can be used as green onions in March.
* From seed, plant beets, chard, lettuce, mustard, peas, radishes and turnips.
* Annuals are showing up in nurseries, but wait until the weather warms up a bit before planting. Instead, set out flowering perennials such as columbine and delphinium.
* Plant summer-flowering bulbs including cannas, calla lilies and gladiolus.
* This is the last chance to spray fruit trees before they bloom. Treat peach and nectarine trees with copper-based fungicide. Spray apricot trees at bud swell to prevent brown rot. Apply horticultural oil to control scale, mites and aphids on fruit trees soon after a rain. But remember: Oils need at least 24 hours to dry to be effective. Don’t spray during foggy weather or when rain is forecast.
* Feed spring-blooming shrubs and fall-planted perennials with slow-release fertilizer. Feed mature trees and shrubs after spring growth starts.
* Remove aphids from blooming bulbs with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap.
* Fertilize strawberries and asparagus.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth