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FLIMBY Extra: Make Easter lilies last for years to come

Beloved holiday favorite will rebloom outdoors (but usually in late May)

Easter lilies, if grown outside, tend to bloom around Memorial Day in a typical year.

Easter lilies, if grown outside, tend to bloom around Memorial Day in a typical year. Debbie Arrington

Because of the timeliness of the topic, we've added this extra post to our Flowers in My Back Yard weekly series. Look for the series to continue Tuesday, April 7.

Here’s another indicator we’re having a weird, warm spring: My Easter lilies are blooming.

They bloom reliably every year. But this April, they look like they might actually open in time for the early spring holiday – while growing in the ground outdoors.

Most years, my Easter lilies haven’t even peeked out of the ground before April 1 (little alone get ready to bloom). I can usually expect to see their flowers around Memorial Day.

But the combination of warmth and rain prompted these bulbs to sprout early – along with lots of other summer lilies.

Easter lilies (Lilium longiflorum) – at least, the lily species we associate with the holiday – are native to Japan’s Ryukyu Islands and Taiwan, where they bloom in early summer. According to lore, an enterprising Philadelphia florist named William Harris popularized this lily in the 1880s as the perfect Easter gift plant. The bulbs were originally imported from Japan or grown in Bermuda and shipped north. Florists “forced” the bulbs to bloom months early (in time for Easter) by growing them indoors or in greenhouses.

As symbols of purity and rebirth, white lilies have been associated with Easter and Christ’s resurrection for centuries. Their shape looks like angel trumpets.

During World War II when all trade with Japan halted, America’s Easter lily industry found a new home: Coastal communities near the California-Oregon border. That micro-climate had the perfect growing condition for farming these bulbs. James White, one of those wartime bulb farmers, created the ‘Nellie White’ Easter lily, named for his wife; it’s still the most popular variety.

Most of the nation’s Easter lily bulbs hail from family farms in this very specialized ag area. The bulbs are grown outdoors in fields for at least two to three years before distribution to commercial greenhouses throughout North America. They’re potted up in December with an eye for a two-week marketing window before the Easter holiday, which can fall anywhere between March 25 and April 25.

Indoors, these potted and forced lilies will bloom for about two weeks. Put them in a bright sunny spot, out of drafts or forced heat. Water just enough to keep soil evenly moist.

After the flowers are spent, move the plant outdoors. Continue to water until the foliage yellows and fades.

The bulb can then be transplanted into the ground. (Trim off the spent foliage before planting.) They do best in a sunny spot with good drainage. (Of course, they’ll grow well in a pot, too.) If left undisturbed, they’ll slowly multiply. Surrounding the mother bulb, little bulblets can be dug up and replanted; they’ll take two to three years before they flower.

A couple of caveats: Keep these flowers away from cats. Easter lilies are highly toxic to felines. Every part of the plant (including the flowers and pollen) are poisonous to cats; if they eat any portion or rub their face in the fragrant flowers, they may need immediate veterinary care.

However, dogs and humans are resistant to this lily toxicity. (They may get a tummy ache, but nothing like the feline reaction.)

One animal LOVES munching Easter lilies: Deer. (They especially like the unopened buds.)

As for my Easter lilies, I’ll enjoy them during this warm and early spring, and look forward to seeing them again next year – most likely around Memorial Day.

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Flowers in My Back Yard Series

Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower

July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show

July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)

July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy

July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies

June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden

June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners

June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)

June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself

June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude

May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?

May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs

May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power

May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens

May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend

April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look

April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower

April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact

April 7: Calendulas do double duty

April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come

March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)

March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots

March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums

March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come

March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy

Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?

Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come

Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers

Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses

Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?

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Garden checklist for week of Aug. 2

Get out early in the morning and monitor your garden’s moisture needs. Deep water and add temporary shade structures for plants that are feeling a little burned. In particular, protect developing peppers and eggplant.

* Put off fertilization until this heat passes; plants need to concentrate on hydration instead of growth.

* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers.

* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.

* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don’t let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.

* Pinch off dead flowers from perennials and annuals to lengthen their summer bloom.

* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot.

* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.

* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.

* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.

* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips. Make sure to keep seeds and seedlings consistently moist.

* Plant potatoes.

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Strawberries

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Taste Fall! E-cookbook

Muffins and pumpkin

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Taste Winter! E-cookbook

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth