Pick green and bring inside – or hope for a hot October
Green tomatoes can ripen off the vine at room temperature with no sunlight. Kathy Morrison
This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, focused on edible gardening.
Happy fall! We’re officially in a new season and surveying the remains of our summer garden.
Several tomato vines still have green fruit; a few even have flowers. Does that mean fresh tomatoes for Halloween – or even Thanksgiving or Christmas?
Like all gardening, it depends on the weather. Tomatoes need warm days and warm nights to ripen on the vine.
Right now, we have both, with the first week of fall feeling like an extension of summer. And some heat is likely to stick around; the National Weather Service predicts Sacramento to stay at least in the 80s well into October with overnight lows in the upper 50s.
According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, Sacramento’s long-range forecast is 5 degrees above normal through October and November. That means tomato vines and other summer crops will likely try to hang on longer than usual.
As it gets colder, tomatoes tend to go into slow motion. Ripening takes longer. Varieties that normally take six to eight weeks to fully mature may still be green three months from now (which would be pushing Christmas).
In theory, tomato vines could last until next year – just not outdoors in Sacramento. Tomatoes are a tender perennial; we just treat them like annuals. A native of the tropics, tomatoes are extremely sensitive to cold. They basically shut down fruit production in temperatures under 55 degrees. Frost will finish them off.
When it comes time to finally pull the vines, nighttime temperatures are often the deciding factor (along with lack of space for planting fall crops). When nighttime temperatures steadily drop to 50 degrees or lower, it’s time to say goodbye to those summer vines.
What’s the ideal temperature for tomato ripening? According to research at San Diego State University, the sweet spot for tomatoes are temperatures between 68 and 77 degrees. That’s not the afternoon high but the actual air temperature during day or night. Above 85 degrees or below 55, tomato ripening may be negatively impacted.
Research also shows that tomatoes – once they reach their full size and firmness – don’t need sunlight to turn red. They develop more sugar (and sweeter flavor) if allowed to ripen on the vine. But as for color, they’ll turn red on the kitchen counter or tucked inside a paper bag.
Midwesterners recommend pulling the whole vine, roots and all, with tomatoes still attached, then hanging the vine upside down indoors (in a barn, shed or garage) and allowing the tomatoes to ripen on the drying plant. They’ll continue to mature for weeks and can be picked as needed.
That method takes room; the kitchen counter works, too.
When nighttime temperatures start turning chilly, pick the full-sized but still green tomatoes and let them ripen indoors. Line a baking sheet or large pan with newsprint and let the tomatoes sit at room temperature, out of direct sunlight or heat.
Be patient. Tomatoes ripen more slowly on the counter than on the vine. But they do ripen (and still taste better than store bought).
And yes, you can have fresh tomatoes for the holidays!
Want them to ripen faster? Put tomatoes in a brown paper bag with an apple or banana. The fruit releases ethylene to speed ripening. The tomatoes will be red in just a few days.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
WINTER:
Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18
Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!
* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.
* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.
* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.
* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.
* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.
* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.
* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.
* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.
* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.
* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.
* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.
* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.
* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.
Contact Us
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