Temperature plays a role in ripening – especially at night
Frustrated by tomatoes that won't ripen? Blame the weather, especially the cooler than usual nights we've had this month. Kathy Morrison
This is another installment in our Food in My Back Yard series, devoted to edible gardening.
“Why won’t my tomatoes turn red?” Local master gardeners have heard that question repeatedly this summer.
By the end of July, most Sacramento gardeners should be harvesting ripe tomatoes. That’s assuming those transplants went into the ground in late April or early May.
But for Sacramento gardeners, this has been an unusually mild summer. In July, Sacramento recorded only one triple-digit day (102 on July 11). Through Monday (July 28), 19 days in July saw lower than normal temperatures, according to the National Weather Service.
Daytime highs in July have averaged 2.5 degrees lower than average (89.1 compared to 92.6). Perhaps more consequentially, overnight lows have also dipped about 2 degrees below normal, averaging 57.5 degrees. July 5 set a record low for that date in Sacramento: 54 degrees.
As much as they need abundant sun, tomatoes need warm nights to produce ripe fruit. According to UC research, California tomatoes struggle to ripen when nighttime temperatures dip into the mid to low 50s. Ripening may stop altogether when nights go below 50 degrees.
Usually, it’s too much heat that interferes with ripening. Red pigments may not form properly during triple-digit weather. (This phenomenon has plagued gardeners coast to coast this summer – just not here.)
Colder nights may add days or even weeks to the ripening process. (And it may seem like forever when you’re waiting for that first ripe beefsteak.) But other factors may also be on play, such as too much nitrogen fertilizer, too much shade or too much direct sun.
So, what’s the ideal temperature for tomato ripening? According to research at San Diego State University, the sweet spot for tomatoes are temperatures between 68 and 77 degrees. That’s not the afternoon high but the actual air temperature during day or night. Above 85 degrees or below 55, tomato ripening may be negatively impacted.
Research also shows that tomatoes – once they reach their full size and firmness – don’t need sunlight to turn red. They develop more sugar (and sweeter flavor) if allowed to ripen on the vine. But as for color, they’ll turn red on the kitchen counter or tucked inside a paper bag (preferably with an apple or banana).
Tired of waiting? Pick the full-sized but still green tomatoes once they show a blush of color and let them ripen indoors. Meanwhile, the tomato plant can concentrate on setting new fruit – and, we hope, enjoying warmer nights in August.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
WINTER:
Jan. 20: Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18
Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!
* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.
* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.
* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.
* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.
* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.
* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.
* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.
* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.
* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.
* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.
* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.
* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.
* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.
Contact Us
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