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FIMBY: Potatoes from the garden -- easy harvest once they're planted

Following a few guidelines will help guarantee success

Most of these Red Norland and Yukon Gold potatoes have nubby sprouts and are ready to be planted.

Most of these Red Norland and Yukon Gold potatoes have nubby sprouts and are ready to be planted. Kathy Morrison

This is another in our “Food in My Back Yard” series, dedicated to edible gardening.

March and potatoes go hand in hand, and not just because of St. Patrick's Day. Late winter is an excellent time to start seed potatoes and have a fresh crop by, say, Father's Day. 

Sacramento's last average frost day is March 18, two weeks from today. From now through April is ideal for planting potatoes, though they also do well here if planted in August to mid-September. However, seed potatoes are plentiful now in nurseries and hardware stores, which gives the gardener the best selection.

Potatoes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow in a home garden. And the easiest way to grow them, I believe, is in cloth grow bags.

A couple of reasons:

First, the grow bags can be be set up anywhere, even on a patio. Potatoes need at least 6 hours of full sun, so find the right spot before actually planting.

Second, potatoes like soil that is loose and nutrient-rich, which makes potting soil mixed with compost just about perfect. Clay soil needs lots of cultivating to accommodate the plants.

The third reason? Potatoes shouldn't be grown where tomatoes, peppers or eggplant grew before -- and vice versa. Those summer vegetables are all part of the Solanaceae plant family. As the UC master gardeners note: "Rotating crops in the garden not only enhances soil fertility, but it can be effective against insect and disease pests that develop on a narrow range of vegetable plants."

With the grow bag, the soil is isolated, and you know exactly what grew there. It's easily reused the next year (with nutrients replenished) for something like carrots (which also like loose soil) or beans.

Finally, it's easy to harvest potatoes from a grow bag: Reach in and grab a few, or dump out the whole bag onto a tarp. This guarantees you get all of them. It's easy to miss one or two when harvesting from in-ground gardens, and then these potatoes sprout next year, probably where you don't want them. (Ask me how I know this!)

Potato growing is mostly front-loaded when it comes to tasks, so allow some prep time for the following:

-- Choose potatoes you like to eat and which grow well in our area. (Note: Russets take a long time to grow, and generally don't like hot weather.) If you can find a nursery selling individual seed potatoes, go for it: You can see which ones look plumpest, with good eyes on them. But many seed potatoes come in packages, which might be mesh but are not always. If they're in plastic, try feeling through the plastic for the size and shape.

Well, why not just plant potatoes from the grocery store? Reason: Those are usually treated to prevent sprouting -- or at least sprouting before you can buy them. Organically grown potatoes, however, will work for planting. 

-- Up to a week before planting, place the potatoes in a warm spot to encourage initial sprouting. I lined up mine on a sunny window sill that is near a heater vent. This year I chose Red Norland and Yukon Gold seed potatoes, some of which already had tiny sprouts.

-- One to three days before planting, cut any large seed potatoes into pieces with at least 2 eyes each. Little potatoes (egg size or smaller) don't need to be cut. Return the pieces to the sprouting site so the cut parts can harden over.

Now to plant!  Fill the grow bag about one-third full with a mix of potting soil and rich compost, watering it well if it's very dry. (This  should be done ahead of time, too.)  Nestle the potatoes or pieces into the top of the soil. Three to four potatoes can be planted in a 15-gallon grow bag -- make sure to space them out. A 5-gallon bag is the smallest one to use for potatoes, and that at best would be for one plant.

Cover the potatoes with more soil and compost, 2 to 4 inches worth, and dampen the soil surface.You're done. For now.

During the growing period, make sure the soil doesn't dry out but should not be soggy -- good drainage prevents root rot. When stalks and leaves start emerging, add more potting soil and compost to the grow bag, up to the lower leaves of the plant's top 2 to 3 inches. Keep doing this as the plants grow, making sure any growing tubers are not exposed to sunlight. (That turns them green.)

When flowers emerge on the plants, you'll know that harvest is coming. But wait until the stalks yellow and wilt to harvest.

Newly harvested potatoes can be eaten at once. But if you plan to store the potatoes, first harden them off: Brush off the dirt and place them in a well-ventilated container in complete darkness for 10 to 14 days. Store potatoes long-term in darkness at temperatures about 50 degrees.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

FALL

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth

WINTER

March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds

March 4: Potatoes from the garden

Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space

Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting

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Garden checklist for week of Nov. 16

During breaks in the weather, tackle some garden tasks:

* Clear gutters and storm drains.

* Prune dead or broken branches from trees.

* After the storm, seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.

* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.

* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.

* Plant garlic and onions.

* Plant bulbs at two-week intervals to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.

* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.

* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting them. Do leave some (healthy) leaves in the planting beds for wildlife and beneficial insect habitat.

* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.

* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.

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