Following a few guidelines will help guarantee success
Most of these Red Norland and Yukon Gold potatoes have nubby sprouts and are ready to be planted. Kathy Morrison
This is another in our “Food in My Back Yard” series, dedicated to edible gardening.
March and potatoes go hand in hand, and not just because of St. Patrick's Day. Late winter is an excellent time to start seed potatoes and have a fresh crop by, say, Father's Day.
Sacramento's last average frost day is March 18, two weeks from today. From now through April is ideal for planting potatoes, though they also do well here if planted in August to mid-September. However, seed potatoes are plentiful now in nurseries and hardware stores, which gives the gardener the best selection.
Potatoes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow in a home garden. And the easiest way to grow them, I believe, is in cloth grow bags.
A couple of reasons:
First, the grow bags can be be set up anywhere, even on a patio. Potatoes need at least 6 hours of full sun, so find the right spot before actually planting.
Second, potatoes like soil that is loose and nutrient-rich, which makes potting soil mixed with compost just about perfect. Clay soil needs lots of cultivating to accommodate the plants.
The third reason? Potatoes shouldn't be grown where tomatoes, peppers or eggplant grew before -- and vice versa. Those summer vegetables are all part of the Solanaceae plant family. As the UC master gardeners note: "Rotating crops in the garden not only enhances soil fertility, but it can be effective against insect and disease pests that develop on a narrow range of vegetable plants."
With the grow bag, the soil is isolated, and you know exactly what grew there. It's easily reused the next year (with nutrients replenished) for something like carrots (which also like loose soil) or beans.
Finally, it's easy to harvest potatoes from a grow bag: Reach in and grab a few, or dump out the whole bag onto a tarp. This guarantees you get all of them. It's easy to miss one or two when harvesting from in-ground gardens, and then these potatoes sprout next year, probably where you don't want them. (Ask me how I know this!)
Potato growing is mostly front-loaded when it comes to tasks, so allow some prep time for the following:
-- Choose potatoes you like to eat and which grow well in our area. (Note: Russets take a long time to grow, and generally don't like hot weather.) If you can find a nursery selling individual seed potatoes, go for it: You can see which ones look plumpest, with good eyes on them. But many seed potatoes come in packages, which might be mesh but are not always. If they're in plastic, try feeling through the plastic for the size and shape.
Well, why not just plant potatoes from the grocery store? Reason: Those are usually treated to prevent sprouting -- or at least sprouting before you can buy them. Organically grown potatoes, however, will work for planting.
-- Up to a week before planting, place the potatoes in a warm spot to encourage initial sprouting. I lined up mine on a sunny window sill that is near a heater vent. This year I chose Red Norland and Yukon Gold seed potatoes, some of which already had tiny sprouts.
-- One to three days before planting, cut any large seed potatoes into pieces with at least 2 eyes each. Little potatoes (egg size or smaller) don't need to be cut. Return the pieces to the sprouting site so the cut parts can harden over.
Now to plant! Fill the grow bag about one-third full with a mix of potting soil and rich compost, watering it well if it's very dry. (This should be done ahead of time, too.) Nestle the potatoes or pieces into the top of the soil. Three to four potatoes can be planted in a 15-gallon grow bag -- make sure to space them out. A 5-gallon bag is the smallest one to use for potatoes, and that at best would be for one plant.
Cover the potatoes with more soil and compost, 2 to 4 inches worth, and dampen the soil surface.You're done. For now.
During the growing period, make sure the soil doesn't dry out but should not be soggy -- good drainage prevents root rot. When stalks and leaves start emerging, add more potting soil and compost to the grow bag, up to the lower leaves of the plant's top 2 to 3 inches. Keep doing this as the plants grow, making sure any growing tubers are not exposed to sunlight. (That turns them green.)
When flowers emerge on the plants, you'll know that harvest is coming. But wait until the stalks yellow and wilt to harvest.
Newly harvested potatoes can be eaten at once. But if you plan to store the potatoes, first harden them off: Brush off the dirt and place them in a well-ventilated container in complete darkness for 10 to 14 days. Store potatoes long-term in darkness at temperatures about 50 degrees.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of April 19
After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!
* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.
* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons, radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.
* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.
* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.
* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.
* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.
* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.
* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.
* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.
* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.
* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.
* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.
* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.
* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.
Contact Us
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth