Popular perennial needs good drainage, plenty of sun and well-timed support
This orange and yellow beauty is a cactus dahlia, one of 14 shapes available in the popular perennial flower. Debbie Arrington
This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, focused on blooming plants.
Dahlias are definitely having their moment.
Darlings of social media and wedding designers, dahlias seem to be everywhere online. They currently rank among the most requested bridal flowers (especially for late summer or fall nuptials), but they’re beautiful for any event – or sunny garden.
Incredibly photogenic, this perennial flower comes in 14 different shapes in every color but blue (plus lots of combinations). Their size ranges from “pompoms” smaller than a cotton ball to “dinner plates” the size of serving platters up to 15 inches across.
Dahlias were made to be homegrown (or close by). Because they don’t ship well, this popular cut flower needs to be grown near its destination (such in a vase or bouquet), making it the poster posy for the farm-to-vase movement.
This also has prompted vegetable farmers to grow dahlias as a side crop, offering them at farmers markets or fruit stands.
Dahlias appreciate the same conditions as several summer vegetables, making them an ideal companion flower. If you can grow tomatoes, you can grow dahlias.
Fortunately for Sacramento-area gardeners, dahlias love it here. They thrive in hot summer sun and, if planted now in May or early June, they’ll bloom from late summer until frost.
I know from experience. My favorite red dahlia bloomed well into December, providing fat Christmas bouquets.
Dahlias grow from tubers. They look like grayish sweet potatoes (but don’t eat them). They multiply year after year, producing more and more plants. Like bearded irises, they benefit from periodic dividing and replanting.
In snowy climates, dahlias are “lifted” (dug up) and stored each winter. In Sacramento, tubers can stay in the ground – as long as they get good drainage. If planted in a low spot with clay soil, they can rot.
Drainage and sun are keys to dahlia success. They appreciate loose, loamy soil with a lot of organic material. Choose a location with 6 to 8 hours of sun a day.
Start with a 6- to 8-inch hole. Dig compost into the soil before planting. Add a tablespoonful of bone meal.
With their “eyes” (growth points) pointing up, plant dahlia tubers relatively shallow, covered by 2 to 3 inches of soil. (Smaller tubers need only an inch.) Unlike potatoes, don’t cut tubers up; they need to be planted whole.
Wait for the tuber to sprout before watering. Then, water regularly and deeply twice a week during summer. Put your dahlias on the same water diet as tomatoes, 5 gallons a week per plant.
As for fertilizer, be stingy. Feed dahlias half-strength balanced fertilizer (such as 8-8-8) once a month during their growth period. Too much nitrogen produces all leaves and no flowers.
Dahlia tubers need to feel warmth, so don’t mulch. Leave the ground bare around the plant. (Mulch also can harbor snails and slugs, the main dahlia pests.)
The hardest part of growing dahlias? Choosing which ones to to grow. More than 20,000 named varieties are available. And some can get very pricey; a single tuber for the most popular varieties (such as beige-pink ‘Cafe au Lait,’ a favorite of wedding designers) can cost $20, $30 or more.
When picking out varieties (and where to plant them), remember: Dahlias can get really big. While some border or bedding varieties stay compact (and knee high), most dahlias will grow 3 to 4 feet tall – or more. (Larger dinner-plate varieties often top 6 feet tall.) If planted next to vegetables, they will shade their neighbors in late summer. (Bell peppers, for example, could use that shade.)
Dahlias need room, too. Plant the larger varieties at least 2 to 3 feet apart.
Or plant them 1 foot apart and create a dahlia “hedge”; their tall stems will support each other.
Support is key to big long-stemmed dahlias. As they grow rapidly, those heavy flower heads can topple the plant. Stake the stems as they grow, tying them with soft string or yarn. That extra support will keep the plants looking tidy as well as protect them from wind.
After sprouting, dahlias take 8 to 12 weeks to bloom. If they're planted now, you can expect to enjoy bouquets in August – and throughout the fall.
The more you cut dahlia flowers, the more they’ll bloom. Regular deadheading prolongs their season by months.
For more on dahlias (including where to buy and choosing varieties), check out the resources from the American Dahlia Society: https://www.dahlia.org/.
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
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Garden checklist for week of May 17
With an eye on warmer weather to come, continue to work on the summer vegetable garden:
* Remember to irrigate your tender transplants. The wind can quickly dry out young plants. Seedlings need consistent moisture. Deep watering will help build strong roots and healthy plants. Water early in the morning for best results.
* Plant, plant, plant! It’s prime planting season in the Sacramento area. Time to set out those tomato transplants along with peppers and eggplants. Pinch off any flowers on new transplants to make them concentrate on establishing roots instead of setting premature fruit.
* Direct-seed melons, cucumbers, summer squash, corn, radishes, pumpkins and annual herbs such as basil.
* Harvest lettuce, peas and green onions.
* In the flower garden, direct-seed sunflowers, cosmos, salvia, zinnias, marigolds, celosia and asters. (You also can transplant seedlings for many of the same flowers.)
* Plant dahlia tubers.
* Transplant petunias, marigolds and perennial flowers such as astilbe, calibrachoa, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, rudbeckia and verbena.
* Keep an eye out for slugs, snails, earwigs and aphids that want to dine on tender new growth.
* Feed summer bloomers with a balanced fertilizer.
* For continued bloom, cut off spent flowers on roses as well as other flowering plants.
* Put your veggie garden on a regular diet. Set up a monthly feeding program, and keep track on your calendar. Make sure to water your garden before applying any fertilizer to prevent “burning” your plants.
* As spring-flowering shrubs finish blooming, give them a little pruning to shape them, removing old and dead wood. Lightly trim azaleas, fuchsias and marguerites for bushier plants.
* Don’t forget to weed! Those invaders are growing fast.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth