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FIMBY: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Heat spikes can play havoc with ripening tomatoes

If tomatoes are taking their time turning red, blame the recent heat wave. Heirloom tomatoes  also tend to be extra fussy.

If tomatoes are taking their time turning red, blame the recent heat wave. Heirloom tomatoes also tend to be extra fussy. Kathy Morrison

This is another in our Food in My Back Yard series, devoted to edible gardening.

August heat can disrupt Sacramento’s favorite crop: tomatoes. Too much heat and plants not only refuse to set more fruit, the tomatoes hanging on the vines refuse to turn red.

You may be better off picking those not-quite-ripe toms and letting them reach full color indoors. That’s especially true if temperatures are forecast in the upper 90s or higher (as in later this week).

Leaving tomatoes on the vine until they reach maximum ripeness is a source of home-grown pride. (Tomatoes won’t get any sweeter or flavorful once picked.) But that comes with risks:

* Bugs or other pests love ripening tomatoes, too. Pick those big toms before pests start nibbling.

* Exposure to too much heat can cause the fruit to turn mushy before it turns red.

According to university research, a couple of factors impede ripening.

In late summer, tomato vines may have fewer leaves. Less foliage means less photosynthesis, which means less energy and slower growth for the plant. Without that boost of energy, its green tomatoes take longer to grow to size and ripen.

In addition, red pigments can’t form properly in triple-digit heat. Yellow and orange pigments seem to do OK, which leads to ripe tomatoes with splotches. They’re fine to eat, although not classically perfect.

Another factor: Soil temperature. If tomato roots stay over 80 degrees, fruit ripening is impacted, too. (This is a problem in container-grown tomatoes.) It’s also a reason not to use black mulch or rocks around tomatoes; the mulch or rocks absorb too much heat.

Also impeding ripe tomato production: Too much shade or too much fertilizer.

Tomatoes need at least six hours of sun daily to produce consistent fruit. (Is that under-performing tomato plant now getting a lot of shade from nearby trees, sunflowers or other tomato cages?) However, some shade in the late afternoon when our sun is at its hottest is a good thing – it prevents sunburning the fruit.

Too much nitrogen fertilizer leads to vines with lots of lush leaves – but no tomatoes. From here on out, feed tomatoes a little bone meal or other phosphate-rich fertilizer to prompt fruit production – but no more nitrogen.

Lack of fruit or ripeness could also be up to tomato variety. Heirloom varieties tend to be extra fussy. Brandywine is notorious for its lack of production in Sacramento. They need just-right conditions in order to produce a good (or any) crop.

If your tomatoes seem to be taking forever to ripen, the solution is easy: Pick them. Then, let them ripen in a dark space indoors (such as in a box on the kitchen counter). Their flavor may not be as intense as if vine ripened, but they’ll be red and juicy – and finally ready to eat.

“Light conditions have very little to do with ripening,” said Cornell University researchers. “Tomatoes do not require light to ripen and in fact, fruit exposed to direct sunlight will heat to levels that inhibit pigment synthesis. If temperatures remain high outdoors, these picked fruit will ripen more quickly, perhaps by as much as five days.”

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Flowers in My Back Yard Series

Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses

Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?

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Garden checklist for week of Feb. 8

Dodge those raindrops and get things done! Your garden needs you.

* Start your spring (and summer) garden. Transplant or direct-seed several flowers, including snapdragon, candytuft, lilies, astilbe, larkspur, Shasta and painted daisies, stocks, bleeding heart and coral bells.

* In the vegetable garden, plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers, and strawberry and rhubarb roots. Transplant cabbage and its close cousins – broccoli, kale and Brussels sprouts – as well as lettuce (both loose leaf and head).

* Indoors, start peppers, tomatoes and eggplant from seed.

* Plant artichokes, asparagus and horseradish from root divisions. Plant potatoes from tubers and onions from sets (small bulbs). The onions will sprout quickly and can be used as green onions in March.

* From seed, plant beets, chard, lettuce, mustard, peas, radishes and turnips.

* Annuals are showing up in nurseries, but wait until the weather warms up a bit before planting. Instead, set out flowering perennials such as columbine and delphinium.

* Plant summer-flowering bulbs including cannas, calla lilies and gladiolus.

* This is the last chance to spray fruit trees before they bloom. Treat peach and nectarine trees with copper-based fungicide. Spray apricot trees at bud swell to prevent brown rot. Apply horticultural oil to control scale, mites and aphids on fruit trees soon after a rain. But remember: Oils need at least 24 hours to dry to be effective. Don’t spray during foggy weather or when rain is forecast.

* Feed spring-blooming shrubs and fall-planted perennials with slow-release fertilizer. Feed mature trees and shrubs after spring growth starts.

* Remove aphids from blooming bulbs with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap.

* Fertilize strawberries and asparagus.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth