Easy-care perennial thrives where other plants struggle
Daylilies are sun-loving and pest-free -- and come in many color combinations. This pretty orange cultivar is double-flowered. Debbie Arrington
This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, devoted to blooming plants.
This perennial may be the Sacramento gardener’s dream plant. It’s easy to care for, thrives in almost any soil (with limited water) and blooms like crazy all summer long.
It’s only drawback? Each flower lasts only a day. That’s no problem, since each stem of these bulletproof plants are packed with buds.
Daylilies, a familiar sight in California landscapes, offer a rainbow of color (in countless combinations) for the water-wise garden. They’re resilient as well as relatively pest free and super-easy to propagate.
Daylilies reflect their botanical name, Hemerocallis, a combination of the Greek words for “day” and “beauty.” True to its name, each flower stays open for only one day, but each of the flower stems has 10 to 15 buds and mature plants produce at least four to six flower stems each summer. (In theory, that’s up to 90 daily blooms – what other summer flowers can do that?)
Although they don’t need deadheading, removing spent flower stems after all the buds have bloomed can prompt the plant to produce more stems – and more buds.
Despite their flower shape, daylilies are not actually lilies – and that’s a good thing. True lilies (members of the Lilium genus) are toxic to people and pets. Daylilies are not. Their buds and flower petals are edible. (They taste vaguely like asparagus; unfortunately, deer like them, too.)
Daylilies are native throughout Asia and central Europe. More than 80,000 named varieties trace back to China and Japan. Yellow daylilies originally came from Eastern Europe.
No daylilies are native to the United States, but they sure like it here. The common orange daylily was brought by early European immigrants to North America and rapidly naturalized. (It’s now considered invasive in Eastern states.)
In fact, daylilies may be the hardiest of all perennials. Depending on variety, they’re hardy from USDA Zones 2 to 11. They can withstand brutal winters as well as intense summer heat and drought. They thrive in hot, dry climates as well as cool (and rainy) coastal zones.
They’ll grow almost anywhere – in heavy clay, rich loam, rocky slope or cramped pot. Their thick underground tubers form a web that can hold soil in place – great for erosion control on slopes.
Although they prefer good drainage (to avoid rotting those tubers), daylilies can withstand soggy conditions for weeks or longer, which makes them an excellent choice for rain gardens and landscaping around ponds.
Among the many thousands of daylily varieties available, the most common in the Sacramento region is ‘Stella d’Oro’ (which means “gold star”). It’s a warm golden shade and constant bloomer. Once established, it comes back summer after summer with little thought or attention.
Now – while daylilies are in bloom – is the time to shop for these beautiful plants. Their flowers range from almost creamy white to dark purple with loads of sunny yellows, oranges and reds in between. Over generations, hybridizers have toyed with petal shapes and patterns, creating almost infinite combinations. Flowers may be single, double or triple; ruffled or plain; rounded or pointy; single shade or multi-toned. “Spider” varieties have long, thin petals like spider legs. The plants themselves remain compact, usually under 2 feet tall and wide.
Whatever the flower shape or color, all daylilies have the same basic need: Sun. They prefer at least six to eight hours a day to bloom consistently.
When transplanting, dig a little compost into the planting hole; the daylily will be growing in that spot for a long time. Transplant so the tubers are covered by about an inch of soil. Water after transplanting and then once a week or as needed through the summer. Once established, cut back to twice monthly irrigation.
Daylilies need very little if any fertilization. If plants lose their vitality, refresh them with a little aged compost in spring.
Lack of daylily vigor usually means its time for division; the tubers are competing for space. Like other perennials, daylilies benefit from division, usually every five years after the plant has finished blooming in early fall.
Dig up the entire clump and break apart the tubers into three or four new clumps, leaving a few strong roots and leaves on each new clump. Replant (or pot up) and water.
Expect daylilies to die back after blooming. That’s totally normal. Remove the dead foliage to keep plants looking tidy. (Just remember where they’re growing.)
Some varieties stay evergreen and keep their lush appearance all winter.
Amador Flower Farm
Want to see a lot of daylilies – and take some plants home, too? During June, more than a million flowers greet visitors to Amador Flower Farm, a daylily mecca in the Sierra foothills.
Located in the heart of Amador wine country in Plymouth and surrounded by vineyards, the 14-acre flower farm invites visitors to take a garden break from wine tasting and relax under 300-year-old heritage oaks. Besides the vast daylily fields, see four acres of landscaped demonstration gardens with examples of how to incorporate more water-wise daylilies and other perennials into suburban gardens.
The farm’s nursery offers more than 1,000 varieties of daylilies for sale and many more varieties grow in the fields.
In past years, the farm hosted its annual Daylily Days in mid-June, a tradition that lasted more than 20 years. But with the permanent closure of the Deaver family’s wine tasting room, this year’s Daylily Days was canceled.
Instead, visitors are welcome to roam the property on their own, picking out their favorite daylilies from the thousands of examples. The farm and nursery are open seven days a week, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Admission and parking are free.
Amador Flower Farm is located at 22001 Shenandoah School Road, Plymouth, about an hour from downtown Sacramento.
From Sacramento, take Jackson Road (Highway 16) east towards Plymouth, merging onto Highway 49 for 2.4 miles. At the roundabout, take the first right onto E16/Shenandoah Road. Continue 4.2 miles and turn right on Shenandoah School Road. Call 209-245-6660 for more information (or if you get lost).
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact
Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower
July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show
July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)
July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy
July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies
June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden
June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Aug. 9
During this break in the heat, fertilize your garden. Make sure to water before and after applying fertilizer.
*Feed citrus trees their last round of fertilizer for the year. This will give a boost to the fruit that’s now forming.
* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers. Also, give them a boost with phosphate-rich fertilizer to help fruiting.
* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.
* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don't let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.
* Camellia leaves looking a little yellow? Feed them some chelated iron. That goes for azaleas and gardenias, too.
* Pinch off dead flowers from perennials and annuals to lengthen their summer bloom.
* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot. Then feed fruit trees with slow-release fertilizer for better production for next year.
* To prolong bloom into fall, feed begonias, fuchsias, annuals and container plants. Always water before fertilizing.
* Fertilize fall-blooming perennials, too. Chrysanthemums can be fed until the buds start to open.
* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials, then give them a boost of fertilizer. Make sure to water plants before feeding. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.
* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.
* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.
* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips.
* Plant potatoes.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Add asparagus to your edible garden
Soggy soil and what to do about it
Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
We don't talk (enough) about beets
Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Enhance your food with edible flowers
Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
How to grow summer salad greens
Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
Help pollinators help your garden
Battling early-season tomato pests
Where are the bees when you need them?
How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
Grow culinary herbs in containers
When to plant summer vegetables
Don't be fooled by these garden myths
Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth