Perennial offers dinner-plate blooms in summer, can take cold in winter
Gorgeous and as big as a dinner plate, hardy hibiscus flowers don't last long, but the plant blooms profusely. Debbie Arrington
This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, devoted to blooming plants.
When I see a hibiscus, I think Hawaii. Because I love all things aloha, hibiscus always found a place in my garden.
That became problematic when I moved from Long Beach to Sacramento. While they were quite content in Southern California, my beloved Hawaiian shrubs could not withstand any frost. I lost all my transplanted hibiscuses the first winter.
I decided hibiscus must be one of those truly tropical plants that could flourish in warmer climates (and maybe in a pot that could be moved indoors) but would never be comfortable in my new hometown.
Then I got a “hardy hibiscus.” It was a test plant from Blooms of Bressingham (now known as Must Have Perennials) and part of their “Cordial” series.
It was aloha at first bloom – as big as a dinner plate, easily 10 inches across. The name was fun, too – “Brandy Punch.” (The next year, I also tried “Peppermint Schnapps” with equal success.)
Both varieties have giant pink blooms with bright red centers and handsome dark green foliage. The canes grow quickly to about 4 or 5 feet tall, crowned by over-sized flowers. The blooms don’t last long, maybe a day or two before withering. But the canes bloom so profusely, they’re almost always in flower during summer’s hottest months.
Hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos) grows as a perennial, not an evergreen shrub. It dies down to the ground at frost, but reliably sprouts new canes in late spring (just before Memorial Day) and blooms from mid July into early fall.
Living up to its nickname, this hibiscus is indeed hardy. It can withstand winter snow and thrives even in Zones 4 and 5. Because it does need that kiss of winter cold, hardy hibiscus is not recommended for zones warmer than Sacramento’s Zone 9b. But during summer, it loves Sacramento’s heat.
Hibiscus is a member of the mallow family, which also includes okra (a veggie with a very pretty flower) and why it’s also known as “rose mallow” or “swamp mallow.” Although new hybrids are pushing its color range, hardy hibiscus tend to be pink (or pink-adjacent tones such as blush or magenta) or red.
Hardy hibiscus are native to North America, stretching from Massachusetts to Florida and west to Texas. Their natural habitats are wetlands and seasonal marshes – places where they may get a lot of water all at once or even be standing in wet soil – but they continue to flourish after the water recedes.
True Hawaiian hibiscuses include seven species, all rare in domestic gardens. (The most common is the white-flowered Hibiscus arnottianus.) The big yellow hibiscus that’s Hawaii’s official state flower is actually a Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis). All of these grow as evergreen shrubs or small trees with tender foliage.
Because it dies back in winter, hardy hibiscus is a much sturdier plant. Although it prefers loamy soil, it’s not very picky and tolerates heavy clay soil and poor drainage (as in swamps). It also grows well in pots.
To bloom consistently, it needs at least six hours of sun each day. In Sacramento, it prefers morning sun with some afternoon shade. (That helps those giant flowers last longer.)
Weekly irrigation is enough to keep it thriving. As for feeding, all it needs is a little compost once the canes emerge to reinvigorate its growth. Once the canes die back in late fall, cut them to the ground – but remember where the hibiscus is planted. Hardy hibiscus tends to be tardy, too, sprouting at the end of spring well after other perennials.
Check out these hardy hibiscus from Proven Winners: https://www.provenwinners.com/search/content/rose%20mallow
And the “Cordial” series from Must Have Perennials: https://musthaveperennials.com/hibiscus/
Comments
0 comments have been posted.Sacramento Digs Gardening to your inbox.
Flowers in My Back Yard Series
Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower
July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show
July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)
July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy
July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies
June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden
June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Aug. 2
Get out early in the morning and monitor your garden’s moisture needs. Deep water and add temporary shade structures for plants that are feeling a little burned. In particular, protect developing peppers and eggplant.
* Put off fertilization until this heat passes; plants need to concentrate on hydration instead of growth.
* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers.
* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.
* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don’t let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.
* Pinch off dead flowers from perennials and annuals to lengthen their summer bloom.
* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot.
* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.
* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.
* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.
* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips. Make sure to keep seeds and seedlings consistently moist.
* Plant potatoes.
Contact Us
Send us a gardening question, a post suggestion or information about an upcoming event. sacdigsgardening@gmail.com
Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth