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FLIMBY: How to keep hydrangeas happy

Afternoon shade (and mulch) key to maintaining these summer bloomers

The more acid (or lower pH) the soil it is in, the bluer the hydrangea.

The more acid (or lower pH) the soil it is in, the bluer the hydrangea. Debbie Arrington

This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, dedicated to blooming plants.

Hydrangea mania has come to California.

Most of the nation has been enthralled with this nostalgic flowering shrub for at least a decade. Amid our state’s prolonged droughts, California gardeners leaned away from this notoriously high-water plant. (Hydrangea, after all, means “water vessel.”)

But new hybrid varieties that require less water while reblooming for months have broken down our resistance. There’s now a hydrangea for almost any California landscape – especially shady spots.

Nationwide, gardeners have rediscovered hydrangeas as easy-care, low-maintenance, pest-free shrubs. They “bloom” – or boast huge flowerheads – when other shrubs are basic green at best. (And some species change color!)

White Flower Farm, which sells more than 60 varieties from its Connecticut-based nursery, explains:

“Hydrangeas bloom throughout summer and fall – a quiet time for most woody plants. Hardy, and pest-free, they’re suitable for a broad range of climatic conditions and are particularly tolerant of both wind and salt spray, which makes them an ideal choice for seaside addresses. Colorful, versatile, and easy-care, they’re among the most valuable of garden shrubs. Available in a range of colors, forms, and sizes, the smaller varieties can be planted in container pots or used to fill spaces in mixed borders. Larger specimens bring seasonal color to foundation plantings and make stunning backdrops in a mixed border. Planted in groups, they are also superb, long-blooming hedges.”

Hydrangea hybrids such as Proven Winners’ “Let’s Dance” series have been repeatedly voted favorite new shrub by gardeners. They offer all those hydrangea positives plus the ability to rebloom on new wood.

That’s a major difference; most hydrangeas bloom on “old wood” – stems that grew the summer before. (And is a clue to why some hydrangeas don’t consistently bloom.)

Like other plants enjoying a resurgence in popularity, hydrangeas evoke memories. A staple of Eastern and Midwestern gardens, these long-flowering shrubs came to California sometime around the Gold Rush and have been here ever since.

Native to Asia and the Americas, more than 70 species of hydrangeas have been identified. Europeans called the familiar mophead varieties Hortensia before hydrangea caught on. Most common varieties are deciduous.

Pink hydrangea
Lacecap hydrangeas are preferred for
pollinator gardens.

Mopheads and lacecaps are the most familiar and cultivated varieties. With very distinctive flower forms and looks, they’re actually two faces of the same species: Hydrangea macrophylla. These hydrangeas also are most sensitive to water loss; they lose moisture via those big leaves.

Each has their preferred landscape use. With a more traditional look, mopheads make great foundation plants with masses of blooms. Reflecting their nickname, lacecaps look more informal and a little wild. Both can grow big (over 8 feet tall) if given enough water. Restricting their irrigation helps limit their growth. (Some new dwarf hybrids stay under 2 feet tall and wide.)

Lacecaps are actually preferred for pollinator gardens; their tight little center flowers offer more food as well as easy landing zones, according to Wayside Gardens, another hydrangea supplier.

Both mopheads and lacecaps may change color, reflecting soil acidity. (It’s actually aluminum absorption that’s impacting those hues.) The more acid (or lower pH) the soil, the bluer the hue; generally, blue hydrangeas need pH below 5.5. In more alkaline soils (above 6.5), the flowers veer pink. Balanced soil (5.5 to 6.5) results in lavender and purple hues.

One bush can contain blue, pink and lavender flowers, depending on soil conditions around its roots. Aluminum sulfate added to the soil can help maintain that bright blue color. (Pine needle mulch works, too.)

The brightness or intensity of those colors depends on saturation; that varies by hybrid. Hydrangeas with the darkest hues (such as some intense pinks or purples) have the highest saturation. Most of these flowerheads gradually fade to shades of pale green as they age.

White hydrangeas do not change color because their petals don’t contain the needed pigments.

Mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata), a Japanese native, look a lot like lacecaps, only more compact and better behaved. (They also change color depending on soil acidity.) Several new hybrids cross big-leaf macrophylla and lacy serrata varieties to get the best traits of both.

White hydrangea
'Smooth-leaf' hydrangeas tend to bloom
white or green.

Gaining in popularity (particularly in low-water gardens) are smooth-leaf hydrangeas (H. arborescens). These woody stemmed hydrangeas can have huge, usually pure white or lime green flowerheads; ‘Incrediball’ measures more than 12 inches across. Their “smooth” leaves actually feel velvety, and tend to lose less moisture than mopheads or lacecaps. And they require only twice-monthly irrigation. (Big-leaved varieties need at least weekly water; more during July and August heat.)

Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) and panicled hydrangeas (H. paniculata) stand out among these flowering shrubs. Instead of rounded, flat or ball-like flowerheads, these species have cone-shaped bloom clusters. Statuesque with distinctive fall foliage, the oakleaf varieties are native to the Carolinas and the southeast U.S.; panicled varieties come from China.

All hydrangeas love some shade. But how much? They prefer about 2 to 4 hours of daily sun to bloom consistently – and that’s somewhere between part shade and part sun. Full shade is determined as getting less than 1 hour of sun daily, while part shade is 1 to 2 hours of sun exposure daily. Part sun is 4 to 5 hours daily, and full sun is more than 6 hours daily.

The sweet spot for hydrangeas in Sacramento: Morning sun and afternoon shade, preferably with an eastern exposure.

Hydrangeas do their best with consistent moisture (not too much or too little). If they look droopy in the morning, give them a drink.

Buds on hydrangea
Be sure not to prune off the flowerbuds forming
at the base of the leaves.

Pruning can be key to consistent bloom. Mopheads, lacecaps and other varieties that bloom on old wood should be lightly pruned sometime between late August and November – not in spring. Don’t clip off the flowerbuds, forming at the base of leaves.

As for fertilizer, hydrangeas need little; just a little compost or side dressing in early spring as they start sprouting new leaves. They benefit from mulch (again, it helps retain moisture). If they’re blue, use high acid mulches such as pine needles.

Besides their beauty in the garden, hydrangeas also make excellent cut flowers. Dried, they’ll last months in the vase.

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Flowers in My Back Yard Series

Aug. 25: Crape myrtles, Sacramento's unofficial tree of summer

Aug. 18: Pollinators adore scabiosa, aka pincushion flower

Aug. 11: Hardy hibiscus adds big tropical impact

Aug. 4: Dianthus a deceptively hardy flower

July 28: Naked Ladies put on summer show

July 21: Thank Luther Burbank for these long-lasting beauties (Shasta daisies)

July 14: How to keep hydrangeas happy

July 7: Grow these bright cosmos for bees and butterflies

June 30: Agapanthus adds blue fireworks to the garden

June 23: Easy-care gazanias fill those hot corners

June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)

June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself

June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude

May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?

May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs

May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power

May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens

May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend

April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look

April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower

April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact

April 7: Calendulas do double duty

April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come

March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)

March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots

March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums

March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come

March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy

Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?

Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come

Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers

Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses

Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?

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Garden checklist for week of Aug. 16

During this break in the heat, feed your garden. Make sure to water before and after applying fertilizer.

* In the garden, direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce and turnips.

* Plant potatoes.

* Harvest tomatoes, beans, squash, pepper and eggplants to prompt plants to keep producing. Give your plants a deep watering twice a week, more if planted in containers. Also, give them a boost with phosphate-rich fertilizer to help fruiting.

* Watch out for caterpillars and hornworms in the vegetable garden. They can strip a plant bare in one day. Pick them off plants by hand in early morning or late afternoon.

* Feed citrus trees their last round of fertilizer for the year. This will give a boost to the fruit that’s still small.

* Mulch can be your garden’s best friend – it conserves moisture while blocking out weeds. But don't let mulch mound around stalks, stems or trunks. That can promote rot.

* Camellia leaves looking a little yellow? Give them some chelated iron. That goes for azaleas and gardenias, too.

* Pick up after your fruit trees. Clean up debris and dropped fruit; this cuts down on insects and prevents the spread of brown rot. Then feed fruit trees with slow-release fertilizer for better production for next year.

* To prolong bloom into fall, feed begonias, fuchsias and container plants. Always water before fertilizing.

* Fertilize fall-blooming perennials, too. Chrysanthemums can be fed until the buds start to open.

* Prepare for a fall full of flowers by paying a little extra attention to your garden. Cut off spent blooms from roses, annuals and perennials, then give them a boost of fertilizer. Make sure to water plants before feeding. Roses will rebloom about six to eight weeks after deadheading.

* Indoors, start seedlings for fall vegetable planting, including bunching onion, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, radicchio and lettuce.

* Sow seeds of perennials in pots for fall planting including yarrow, coneflower and salvia.

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Taste Winter! E-cookbook

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Add asparagus to your edible garden

Soggy soil and what to do about it

Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Change is in the autumn air 

We don't talk (enough) about beets

Fava beans do double duty

Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Time to shut it down? 

How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

: Put worms to work for you

Grow food while saving water

Enhance your food with edible flowers

Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

Does this plant need water?

 Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

How to grow summer salad greens

 Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

Help pollinators help your garden

Battling early-season tomato pests

Make your own compost

Where are the bees when you need them?

How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

Grow culinary herbs in containers

When to plant summer vegetables

Don't be fooled by these garden myths

Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth