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FLIMBY: How to keep hydrangeas happy

Afternoon shade (and mulch) key to maintaining these summer bloomers

The more acid (or lower pH) the soil it is in, the bluer the hydrangea.

The more acid (or lower pH) the soil it is in, the bluer the hydrangea. Debbie Arrington

This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, dedicated to blooming plants.

Hydrangea mania has come to California.

Most of the nation has been enthralled with this nostalgic flowering shrub for at least a decade. Amid our state’s prolonged droughts, California gardeners leaned away from this notoriously high-water plant. (Hydrangea, after all, means “water vessel.”)

But new hybrid varieties that require less water while reblooming for months have broken down our resistance. There’s now a hydrangea for almost any California landscape – especially shady spots.

Nationwide, gardeners have rediscovered hydrangeas as easy-care, low-maintenance, pest-free shrubs. They “bloom” – or boast huge flowerheads – when other shrubs are basic green at best. (And some species change color!)

White Flower Farm, which sells more than 60 varieties from its Connecticut-based nursery, explains:

“Hydrangeas bloom throughout summer and fall – a quiet time for most woody plants. Hardy, and pest-free, they’re suitable for a broad range of climatic conditions and are particularly tolerant of both wind and salt spray, which makes them an ideal choice for seaside addresses. Colorful, versatile, and easy-care, they’re among the most valuable of garden shrubs. Available in a range of colors, forms, and sizes, the smaller varieties can be planted in container pots or used to fill spaces in mixed borders. Larger specimens bring seasonal color to foundation plantings and make stunning backdrops in a mixed border. Planted in groups, they are also superb, long-blooming hedges.”

Hydrangea hybrids such as Proven Winners’ “Let’s Dance” series have been repeatedly voted favorite new shrub by gardeners. They offer all those hydrangea positives plus the ability to rebloom on new wood.

That’s a major difference; most hydrangeas bloom on “old wood” – stems that grew the summer before. (And is a clue to why some hydrangeas don’t consistently bloom.)

Like other plants enjoying a resurgence in popularity, hydrangeas evoke memories. A staple of Eastern and Midwestern gardens, these long-flowering shrubs came to California sometime around the Gold Rush and have been here ever since.

Native to Asia and the Americas, more than 70 species of hydrangeas have been identified. Europeans called the familiar mophead varieties Hortensia before hydrangea caught on. Most common varieties are deciduous.

Pink hydrangea
Lacecap hydrangeas are preferred for
pollinator gardens.

Mopheads and lacecaps are the most familiar and cultivated varieties. With very distinctive flower forms and looks, they’re actually two faces of the same species: Hydrangea macrophylla. These hydrangeas also are most sensitive to water loss; they lose moisture via those big leaves.

Each has their preferred landscape use. With a more traditional look, mopheads make great foundation plants with masses of blooms. Reflecting their nickname, lacecaps look more informal and a little wild. Both can grow big (over 8 feet tall) if given enough water. Restricting their irrigation helps limit their growth. (Some new dwarf hybrids stay under 2 feet tall and wide.)

Lacecaps are actually preferred for pollinator gardens; their tight little center flowers offer more food as well as easy landing zones, according to Wayside Gardens, another hydrangea supplier.

Both mopheads and lacecaps may change color, reflecting soil acidity. (It’s actually aluminum absorption that’s impacting those hues.) The more acid (or lower pH) the soil, the bluer the hue; generally, blue hydrangeas need pH below 5.5. In more alkaline soils (above 6.5), the flowers veer pink. Balanced soil (5.5 to 6.5) results in lavender and purple hues.

One bush can contain blue, pink and lavender flowers, depending on soil conditions around its roots. Aluminum sulfate added to the soil can help maintain that bright blue color. (Pine needle mulch works, too.)

The brightness or intensity of those colors depends on saturation; that varies by hybrid. Hydrangeas with the darkest hues (such as some intense pinks or purples) have the highest saturation. Most of these flowerheads gradually fade to shades of pale green as they age.

White hydrangeas do not change color because their petals don’t contain the needed pigments.

Mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata), a Japanese native, look a lot like lacecaps, only more compact and better behaved. (They also change color depending on soil acidity.) Several new hybrids cross big-leaf macrophylla and lacy serrata varieties to get the best traits of both.

White hydrangea
'Smooth-leaf' hydrangeas tend to bloom
white or green.

Gaining in popularity (particularly in low-water gardens) are smooth-leaf hydrangeas (H. arborescens). These woody stemmed hydrangeas can have huge, usually pure white or lime green flowerheads; ‘Incrediball’ measures more than 12 inches across. Their “smooth” leaves actually feel velvety, and tend to lose less moisture than mopheads or lacecaps. And they require only twice-monthly irrigation. (Big-leaved varieties need at least weekly water; more during July and August heat.)

Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) and panicled hydrangeas (H. paniculata) stand out among these flowering shrubs. Instead of rounded, flat or ball-like flowerheads, these species have cone-shaped bloom clusters. Statuesque with distinctive fall foliage, the oakleaf varieties are native to the Carolinas and the southeast U.S.; panicled varieties come from China.

All hydrangeas love some shade. But how much? They prefer about 2 to 4 hours of daily sun to bloom consistently – and that’s somewhere between part shade and part sun. Full shade is determined as getting less than 1 hour of sun daily, while part shade is 1 to 2 hours of sun exposure daily. Part sun is 4 to 5 hours daily, and full sun is more than 6 hours daily.

The sweet spot for hydrangeas in Sacramento: Morning sun and afternoon shade, preferably with an eastern exposure.

Hydrangeas do their best with consistent moisture (not too much or too little). If they look droopy in the morning, give them a drink.

Buds on hydrangea
Be sure not to prune off the flowerbuds forming
at the base of the leaves.

Pruning can be key to consistent bloom. Mopheads, lacecaps and other varieties that bloom on old wood should be lightly pruned sometime between late August and November – not in spring. Don’t clip off the flowerbuds, forming at the base of leaves.

As for fertilizer, hydrangeas need little; just a little compost or side dressing in early spring as they start sprouting new leaves. They benefit from mulch (again, it helps retain moisture). If they’re blue, use high acid mulches such as pine needles.

Besides their beauty in the garden, hydrangeas also make excellent cut flowers. Dried, they’ll last months in the vase.

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Garden checklist for week of July 12

Get out early in the morning to take care of garden chores. Temperatures are expected to stay below 80 degrees before 10 a.m.

* Remember to water early and deep; your garden depends on you.

* It’s not too late to add a splash of color. Plant petunias, snapdragons, zinnias and marigolds.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, winter squash and sunflowers.

* Keep your vegetable garden watered, mulched and weeded. Water before 8 a.m. to reduce the chance of fungal infection and to conserve moisture.

* Water before fertilizing vegetables and blooming annuals, perennials and shrubs to give them a boost. Feeding flowering plants every other week will extend their bloom.

* Feed vegetable plants bone meal or other fertilizers high in phosphate to stimulate more blooms and fruiting.

* Don’t let tomatoes wilt or dry out completely. Give tomatoes a deep watering two to three times a week. Harvest vegetables promptly to encourage plants to produce more. Squash especially tends to grow rapidly in hot weather. Keep an eye on zucchini.

* If your melons and squash aren’t setting fruit, give the bees a hand. With a small, soft paintbrush, gather some pollen from male flowers, then brush it inside the female flowers, which have a tiny swelling at the base of their petals. (That's the embryo melon or squash.) Within days, that little swelling should start growing.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushy plants and more flowers in September.

* Remove spent flowers from roses, daylilies and other bloomers as they finish flowering.

* Pinch off blooms from basil so the plant will grow more leaves.

* Cut back lavender after flowering to promote a second bloom.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth