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FLIMBY: Grow coneflowers for the pollinators -- and yourself

Echinacea flowers draw bees, butterflies and eventually birds

Bees seem to especially love the original purple coneflowers.

Bees seem to especially love the original purple coneflowers. Kathy Morrison

This is another installment in our Flowers in My Back Yard series, devoted to blooming plants.

As drought-tolerant herbaceous perennials, coneflowers cover a lot of bases in the garden.

They are as cheerful as sunflowers (but take up a lot less room), as drought-tolerant as salvia, and as sturdy as Shasta daisies. Coneflowers are wonderful cut flowers, fresh or dried, and do well in containers or in-ground planting beds. Maintenance is minimal once they're established.

As a bonus for foothills gardeners, the mature flowers are deer resistant. 

The classic purple coneflower, Echinacea purpurea, is a member of  the daisy family (Asteraceae). Fun fact: The genus name comes from the ancient Greek word echinos, for (take your pick) hedgehog or sea urchin. Spiky, definitely.

E. purpurea is native to the lower Midwest prairies. The plant grows up to 4 feet tall and 2 feet wide from a woody rhizome; clumps can be divided every four years or so. Native American tribes found the plant a source of medicinal ingredients, and echinacea is still used today in teas and herbal remedies.

Coneflowers are spectacular choices for pollinator gardens. Bees are especially attracted to the cones for pollen; butterflies such as the Gulf fritillary seek out the flowers for a nectar source.  Before fall, stop deadheading the plant: lesser goldfinches and other birds appreciate the seeds from dried seed heads.

Red coneflowers
Coneflowers can provide a long-lasting
burst of color in the garden.

Hybridized coneflowers can be found in a range of colors, from white to yellow, gold, orange, coral, hot pink and red. "Double" flowering varieties are popular for flower arrangements but may be less valuable for pollinators.

California has native "coneflowers" but they are classified differently: The California coneflower (Rudbeckia californica) can grow up to 6 feet tall; it has a tall green cone and yellow flower petals. The western coneflower (Rudbeckia occidentalis) also can grow quite tall. The large cone has no petals, just green sepals. Both of these plants prefer moist soil and afternoon shade.

Echinacea, by contrast, works so well in Sacramento Valley gardens because it tolerates a range of soils, as long as the soil drains well. In hot areas the plant does benefit from some afternoon shade. Be sure that any young plant is well established before summer heat hits. Or wait to plant it until fall, when it can get a head start on putting down its taproot.

The plant will die back for winter, conserving energy in its roots. Leave any browning foliage, then cut it back in late winter or early spring before the plant breaks dormancy.

These cheerful plants are starting to bloom now, in June, and will continue producing flowers through late summer, which is certainly helpful for comparing colors while nursery shopping.

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Find our summer recipes here!

Garden checklist for week of July 19

Remember to water early and deeply; your garden depends on you.

* It’s not too late to add a splash of color. Plant petunias, snapdragons, zinnias and marigolds.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, winter squash and sunflowers.

* Keep your vegetable garden watered, mulched and weeded. Water before 8 a.m. to reduce the chance of fungal infection and to conserve moisture.

* Water, then fertilize vegetables and blooming annuals, perennials and shrubs to give them a boost.

*Fertilizing flowering plants every other week will extend their bloom. Give vegetable plants bone meal or other fertilizers high in phosphate to stimulate more blooms and fruiting.

* Don’t let tomatoes wilt or dry out completely. Give tomatoes a deep watering two to three times a week. Harvest vegetables promptly to encourage plants to produce more. Squash especially tends to grow rapidly in hot weather. Keep an eye on zucchini.

* If your melons and squash aren’t setting fruit, give the bees a hand. With a small, soft paintbrush, gather some pollen from male flowers, then brush it inside the female flowers, which have a tiny swelling at the base of their petals. (That's the embryo melon or squash.) Within days, that little swelling should start growing.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushy plants and more flowers in September.

* Remove spent flowers from roses, daylilies and other bloomers as they finish flowering.

* Pinch off blooms from basil so the plant will grow more leaves. New leaves have the best flavor.

* Cut back lavender after flowering to promote a second bloom.

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Muffins and pumpkin

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Taste Winter! E-cookbook

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth