How to make traditional stuffed chiles at home

Chile rellenos – stuffed peppers – are my go-to order at any Mexican restaurant. It’s my yardstick for their whole menu. How they approach this classic tells me a lot. (For example, if the pepper cap and stem are still attached, the kitchen used fresh peppers, not canned.)

Then I started growing my own oversized pointy peppers, and I learned to make chile rellenos at home.

The hardest part is peeling the peppers; the skin can make the rellenos bitter and chewy. Flame-roasting the peppers under the broiler simplifies this process while also bringing out the peppers’ sweetness. These peeled peppers can be used in lots of ways besides rellenos.

As for the peppers, choose a mild, long chile such as Anaheim, New Mexico/Hatch or poblano. New Mexico’s famous Hatch peppers (grown in the Hatch Valley) are actually what California gardeners call Anaheim. They’re big and uniformly long (about 6 inches), which makes them perfect for stuffing. Poblano peppers are similar in flavor and heat, but tend to be plumper and not quite so lengthy.

How to roast, peel and seed peppers

Wash and dry whole peppers; do not cut. Heat broiler to 500 degrees F. Position rack so peppers will be 2 to 4 inches from the flames.

Arrange whole peppers on foil with a little room between each pepper. Broil for about 3 minutes, monitoring closely, until top side is blackened and bubbly. Flip peppers and char other side, about 3 minutes.

Carefully remove peppers from broiler and place in a heavy brown paper bag, sealed closed, or in a large bowl tightly covered with plastic wrap. Let peppers cool, about 15 minutes.

Remove peppers from bag or covered bowl. With the blunt side of a paring knife, peel peppers. The skin will come right off.

Place the peppers on a cutting board. With a sharp knife, carefully make a slit lengthwise in each pepper. Gently open and scoop out seeds with a spoon.

Peppers are now ready for stuffing or other uses. Peeled and seeded peppers may be frozen for later use.

Chile rellenos

Makes 4

Ingredients:

4 large, mild, pointy peppers such as Anaheim, Hatch or poblano

4 ounces Jack or similar hard white cheese, cut into 4 long sticks

¼ cup milk

¼ to ½ cup flour

2 eggs, separated

Vegetable oil for frying

Salsa or other sauce (optional)

Instructions:

Prepare peppers for stuffing. Peel and carefully remove seeds while keeping the pepper’s cap attached.

Place a stick of cheese inside each pepper. Carefully cover the cheese with the sides of the pepper. (This can be done in advance, and the stuffed peppers kept refrigerated until ready to fry.)

Place milk and flour in separate shallow pans or pie plates.

In a bowl wide enough to accommodate the peppers, beat egg whites until stiff. Lightly beat yolks and fold them into the egg whites.

In a large heavy skillet, pour oil ½ inch deep. Heat oil to 375 degrees F.

One at a time, dip peppers in milk, then carefully roll in flour. Individually submerge the floured peppers in the egg mixture until well covered. Fry the battered peppers in the hot oil until golden brown, turning once, about 3 to 4 minutes each side. Do not crowd the pan.

With a slotted spoon, remove peppers from oil and transfer to a plate covered with paper towels. Let drain briefly.

Serve immediately or keep warm in a 300-degree oven.

If desired, top with salsa or other sauce such as spicy tomato sauce or mole.