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How to make butterflies happy

Plant the right host plant to feed their hungry caterpillars

A California pipevine butterfly visits a zinnia for nectar in a Carmichael garden. The California pipevine, also known as Dutchman's pipe, is the only host plant for these butterflies -- the larvae (caterpillars) need to eat the leaves to survive.

A California pipevine butterfly visits a zinnia for nectar in a Carmichael garden. The California pipevine, also known as Dutchman's pipe, is the only host plant for these butterflies -- the larvae (caterpillars) need to eat the leaves to survive. Kathy Morrison

If you plant it, they will come. Growing the right host plant will attract particular butterflies and feed their hungry caterpillars.

This is National Pollinator Week and butterflies rank among the most beloved of beneficial insects.

In fact, swallowtail butterflies have been named the official Pollinator of the Year by the Pollinator Partnership, the group that coordinates Pollinator Week.

“Swallowtail butterflies are among the most striking and recognizable butterflies in the world,” says the partnership, noting about 30 swallowtail species are native to North America. “With their large wings, bold patterns and graceful flight, they’re a favorite of gardeners and naturalists alike.”

Those “tails” on the end of their wings aren’t just cute; they’re a defense mechanism, says the partnership. Birds and other predators often strike those little wing extensions first, allowing the butterfly to escape.

Many flowers provide nectar to adult butterflies. They prefer wide-open blooms that offer a landing spot as well as the sweet stuff. (Unlike hummingbirds, butterflies can’t feed while hovering.) Think coneflowers (Echinacea) or native buckwheats. Other favorite flowers include thistles, sages, lavenders, California lilacs, catmint, lantana, anise and, of course, butterfly bush.

But when it comes to host plants, butterflies get very picky. They demand specific plants to feed their young.

Monarchs are well known for their love of milkweed, particularly native milkweeds (Asclepias speciosa or fascicularis). The flowers feed the adults, but it's the foliage that feeds the striped caterpillars.

Likewise, pipevine swallowtails gravitate to the California pipevine, which is native to river and stream banks in the Sacramento Valley. Also called Dutchman’s pipe (for its distinctive curved flowers), this is the only host plant for pipevine swallowtails; no pipevines, no pipevine swallowtails. That’s why it’s crucial for suburban gardens to incorporate this interesting native perennial.

Sacramento’s other common swallowtail – the Western tiger swallowtail – has a much wider range of host plants: Willow, cottonwood, alder, aspen, ash and chokecherry.

According to the Butterflies and Moths of North America (another citizen science project), 1,430 different species of these important pollinators have been recorded in California. Of those, about a dozen are common to the greater Sacramento area.

Not so common but among the showiest butterflies is the Gulf fritillary. Originally from the Gulf States, this large, orange butterfly has colonized in several California communities including parts of Sacramento. The key to their appearance: Passionflowers. Gulf fritillaries must have passionflower vines for their caterpillar nurseries. (But they’re even picky about passionflowers; not all species of Passiflora will do.)

Local butterfly lovers are welcome to add their own sightings and observations. Find out more – including an easy identification guide to common species – at https://www.butterfliesandmoths.org/region/california.

For more on Pollinator Week and pollinators: https://www.pollinator.org/pollinator-week.

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Garden checklist for week of July 19

Remember to water early and deeply; your garden depends on you.

* It’s not too late to add a splash of color. Plant petunias, snapdragons, zinnias and marigolds.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, winter squash and sunflowers.

* Keep your vegetable garden watered, mulched and weeded. Water before 8 a.m. to reduce the chance of fungal infection and to conserve moisture.

* Water, then fertilize vegetables and blooming annuals, perennials and shrubs to give them a boost.

*Fertilizing flowering plants every other week will extend their bloom. Give vegetable plants bone meal or other fertilizers high in phosphate to stimulate more blooms and fruiting.

* Don’t let tomatoes wilt or dry out completely. Give tomatoes a deep watering two to three times a week. Harvest vegetables promptly to encourage plants to produce more. Squash especially tends to grow rapidly in hot weather. Keep an eye on zucchini.

* If your melons and squash aren’t setting fruit, give the bees a hand. With a small, soft paintbrush, gather some pollen from male flowers, then brush it inside the female flowers, which have a tiny swelling at the base of their petals. (That's the embryo melon or squash.) Within days, that little swelling should start growing.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushy plants and more flowers in September.

* Remove spent flowers from roses, daylilies and other bloomers as they finish flowering.

* Pinch off blooms from basil so the plant will grow more leaves. New leaves have the best flavor.

* Cut back lavender after flowering to promote a second bloom.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth