Versatile variation of ‘Johnnycakes’ combines with early summer fruit

Johnnycakes – cornmeal pancakes – are older than our nation. Also called hoe cakes, this pancake variation is believed to have been a favorite breakfast of George Washington. As a soldier, he learned how to cook them over an open campfire on the blade of a hoe or shovel (hence the nickname).

In his later years, Washington enjoyed them for breakfast with syrup or honey or as an afternoon snack, slathered in butter.

This version substitutes sour cream for half the milk. The result: A soft, crumbly cornmeal pancake with a slightly crunchy crust that soaks up any topping.

Since we’re entering prime summer-fruit season, an ideal topping is quick fruit compote, mixing chopped stone fruit, berries, apple, banana and orange. The orange’s acidity helps keep the lighter fruit chunks from oxidizing as well as balances the sweetness from the fruit-flavored syrup.

Since they use no wheat flour, these cornmeal pancakes are gluten free. They also work with savory toppings such as salsa or chili.

(And they’re easier to cook on a grill than a shovel.)

Sour cream-cornmeal pancakes

Makes 8 to 10 (4-inch) pancakes

Ingredients:

1 cup cornmeal

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup sour cream

½ cup milk

1 large egg

2 tablespoons butter, melted and slightly cooled

Butter for grill

Instructions:

In a large bowl, sift together cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.

In a small bowl or large measuring cup, combine sour cream and milk. Add egg and beat lightly.

Add sour cream mixture to dry ingredients. Stir to combine. Fold in melted butter. Let batter rest as grill heats.

Heat grill to 350 degrees F. Butter grill. Spoon batter with a small ladle or large spoon onto the hot, buttered grill, allowing about 2 to 3 tablespoons of batter per pancake. The pancakes will puff up and out, so leave some room around each one. Cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes, then turn to brown the other side, another 3 minutes.

Serve hot with butter, syrup and/or fruit compote.

Fruit compote

Makes about 3 cups

Ingredients:

1 orange, peeled, seeded and chopped

1 banana, peeled and sliced

1 small apple, seeded and chopped

2 apricots, plums or pluots or 1 peach, pitted and chopped

10 cherries, pitted and halved

½ cup strawberries, hulled and chopped

¼ cup blueberries

¼ cup peach-flavored syrup (see note)

Instructions:

In a medium bowl, put chopped orange and any juice. Add other fruit in order, stirring gently after each addition. (The acid in the orange juice helps reduce oxidation.)

After all fruit are combined, stir in fruit-flavored syrup. Stir gently to coat fruit.

Refrigerate, covered, until ready to use.

Note: Other fruit-flavored syrups or simple syrup may be substituted.