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Make sure your garden can handle triple-digit heat

How to help your tomatoes and other plants cope with hot weather

The leaves of squash, pumpkin and melon plants commonly wilt in afternoon heat to protect themselves; it doesn't mean they are thirsty. But if they look like this in the morning, definitely water them. Mulch such as straw helps keep soil cool and moist.

The leaves of squash, pumpkin and melon plants commonly wilt in afternoon heat to protect themselves; it doesn't mean they are thirsty. But if they look like this in the morning, definitely water them. Mulch such as straw helps keep soil cool and moist. Kathy Morrison

Can your summer garden take the heat? This week, you’ll likely find out.

With countless young tomato plants now in the ground, Sacramento-area vegetable gardens are now experiencing their first real temperature test as afternoon highs flirt with triple digits.

Tomatoes love warmth, but 100-degree days can hamper growth and pollination. Maintaining consistent soil moisture (not too much or too little) is key to their comfort. (That’s where mulch is vital.) Encourage their roots to grow down with infrequent, deep watering -- the deeper their roots, the better they cope with summer stress.

How much water? It depends on the size of the tomato plant. An average size plant (growing to the top of its tomato cage) needs 5 gallons a week, split into two applications. During hot weather, double that.

Seedlings and new transplants are most at risk during hot weather. They don’t have the root system or support to withstand adverse conditions. The low humidity that accompanies this current heat wave sucks the moisture out of leaves. Squash and other big-leaf veggies can be quick to wilt.

This first real heat of (almost) summer could take a toll on your garden. Your new transplants aren’t used to these extremes.

Take some time now to help your whole garden cope with heat. Not only will your plants stay better hydrated, they’ll suffer less disease, too.

Here’s heat-related advice from UC master gardeners and our own experience:

* Stay hydrated! That applies to both you and your garden. Water early in the day – before 8 a.m. if possible – to cut down on evaporation.

* Switch to drip irrigation if possible. Drip irrigation puts water where plants need it – at the roots.

* Check the soil before you water. It may look dry on top, but still have enough moisture in the root zone 6 inches below the surface. Plants can suffer from too much water (especially in containers) as well as not enough.

* Examine your sprinklers and irrigation system for leaks and clogs, even if you did so at the beginning of spring. Things happen. Now is the time to make adjustments and repairs before plants suffer.

* Prioritize your watering. Deep-water trees and shrubs, your landscape’s most valuable and slowest-growing plants.

* Create water basins around trees, shrubs and many summer vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplant. A basin holds in extra water just a little longer so it slowly seeps into soil. It’s easy to make a basin: Around the plant, build a soil berm about 3 inches high and at least 1 foot from the main stem (for tomatoes) to 6 feet (for trees). But don’t let water stand against trunks or main stems; that can cause crown rot.

* Cycle and soak. Water needs a chance to soak in, especially if you have clay soil. Otherwise, it will run off (and down the drain) instead of reaching roots. Run your irrigation for a short period. Wait an hour or two. Then, run your system again. The water from the second cycle will reach deeper than the first.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! A layer of 3 inches of straw, wood chips, dried leaves or other organic material will keep soil and roots cooler while conserving moisture. Leave a circle open around the trunks or main stems of plants (this is to avoid crown rot and other issues). Mulch conserves moisture and keeps plant roots comfortable. It also adds nutrients to the soil, protects soil microbes and controls weeds. Don’t mulch with rocks or gravel; those materials absorb heat and actually make the soil – and roots – hotter.

* Don’t fertilize when it's over 95 degrees. Plants are trying to keep the leaves and flowers they have already; they don’t need to add more. Wait until the weather cools down to normal (in the 80s). And always water BEFORE fertilizing.

* Shade any sensitive plants and developing fruit on tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and squash. Your harvest can get sunburned. Protect from intense afternoon rays with temporary shade such as shade cloth, burlap draped over trellises or even a propped-up umbrella.

* Wilting can be normal. Some big-leaf plants such as squash may seem to wilt every hot afternoon; that’s OK. They recover overnight. It’s when they’re still wilted in the morning that it’s a problem.

* One good thing about high heat: It wipes out many fungal disease problems. Powdery mildew disappears as the temperature rises.

* A stressed plant draws pests. Keep an eye out for invasions by aphids, thrips, spider mites and tomato hornworms so they don't become established on your plants.

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Garden checklist for week of June 7

Afternoon highs are expected to be back in the mid 90s by midweek, then edging towards triple digits. Plan your planting and garden activities accordingly.

* Remember to water early.

* It’s not too late to transplant tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or other summer favorites. Make sure they stay hydrated.

* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias.

* It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the wee hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.


* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth