Fire-resistant mulch benefits your landscape while also buffering against wildfire
Fine, rich compost like this, with relatively high moisture content, is less flammable than other organic mulches. It also benefits the soil under it. Kathy Morrison
Summer is prime fire season in California. It’s also when our gardens really benefit from moisture-saving mulch.
Use the right mulch in the right place – including fire-prone landscapes. What you put on the ground makes a big difference for your plants as well as fire retardation.
What’s the best choice for maintaining moisture and fire safety, too?
– Start with composted mulch. Its relatively high moisture and nutritional content benefit soil, but it’s less flammable than other organic mulches.
“Research indicates that composted mulch is less flammable,” explains Bruno Pitton, UC Cooperative Extension Environmental Horticulture Advisor for Placer and Nevada counties. “The inference is that composted mulch has less carbon to burn and, with a smaller particle size, there’s less oxygen (to feed flames).”
In addition, fine-particle, moist mulch can act as a buffer to embers. According to Cal Fire, ember ignition is the leading cause of home loss during wildfires, with an estimated 90% of homes destroyed indirectly by wind-borne embers. That’s true in fire-prone areas that border wildlands as well as suburban wildfires.
“Composted mulch is less likely to ignite,” says Pitton. “When it does, it smolders; it doesn’t flame.”
Organic mulch – such as wood chips, dried leaves, straw or compost – helps soil retain moisture as well as suppresses weeds. It naturally regulates soil temperature, keeping plant roots comfortable, while slowly adding nutrients.
In fire-prone areas, taking that extra step to compost the mulch before applying it around plants can be the difference between fueling a blaze and possibly stopping one.
– Size matters; smaller is better. Some commercial mulches such as shredded redwood bark or “gorilla hair” can be problematic; it burns easily when fresh. Choose smaller wood chips (not shreds) instead of large pieces of bark.
“All plants are going to burn if it gets hot enough,” Pitton explains. “The main thing that lowers flammability is moisture content.”
That goes for plants as well as mulch. “Flat thin leaves are more flammable; they dry out really fast,” he adds. “And dried leaves are really flammable. So are pine needles. Think about a campfire – what do you use for kindling?”
Pine needles aren’t recommended for composting; they’re slow to break down. But dried leaves make excellent compost fodder, Pitton notes. “Instead of using your dried leaves for mulch, compost them. Then, use the compost for mulch.”
Small bark chips offer positives for fire-resistant mulch; the qualities that help bark protect evergreen trees also makes bark a good mulch. Bark chips hold more water than dried leaves, etc., while also containing hydrophobic compounds that are resistant to water penetration.
“They break down slowly,” Pitton says. “Use the fine size; it has a lower risk of ignition than coarse bark. Composted bark would be OK, too.”
Why small? “Large particles hold a lot of oxygen between them. Coarse bark has plenty of room for embers to catch. And worse, they can become flaming.”
– Mixed chips work, just not too thick. Arborist wood chips – a mix of wood varieties and sizes, chipped from downed or trimmed neighborhood trees – offer the positives of other organic mulches. (That’s the kind of wood chips available from local tree trimmers.)
Pitton has experimented with arborist wood chip mulch in his own home landscape and found that regular irrigation greatly speeds its break down. In his experiment, arborist wood chips decomposed 16% in 100 days. By comparison, nature’s wood mulch on the forest floor decomposes only 10% in two years.
Cal Fire recommends keeping wood chips or other mulch no more than 3 inches deep. “If (the mulch) does catch, there’s not too much fuel,” Pitton says.
– Composted arborist wood chips are best. That’s what Pitton recommends and uses. “You can compost the chips yourself and apply it yourself. In summer, give it a little irrigation just like a compost pile (to keep it from drying out).”
When applying mulch, allow space (6 inches to 2 feet) around the trunks of trees or shrubs. Keeping mulch away from trunks not only helps prevent crown rot, but offers it some extra fire protection, just in case. “Even if the mulch only smolders, it’s hot enough to kill the plant.”
– Use hardscape within 5 feet of your house or other buildings. As part of Cal Fire’s recommendations for defensible space, use gravel, rock, pavers, concrete or other hardscape around structures – no bark or organic mulches.
More tips on defensible space: https://www.fire.ca.gov/dspace
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Flowers in My Back Yard Series
June 16: Daylilies are perfect for water-wise gardens (and a lot more)
June 9: Grow coneflowers for pollinators -- and yourself
June 2: Sunflowers capture Sacramento's summer attitude
May 29: Are your roses going 'blind'?
May 26: Zinnias are the summer flowers every garden needs
May 19: Plant dahlias now for late-summer flower power
May 12: Know your coreopsis from your bidens
May 5: Mums the word on Mother's Day weekend
April 28: Majestic Matilija poppy is worth a look
April 21: Celebrate roses, America's favorite flower
April 14: Small flowers with outsized impact
April 7: Calendulas do double duty
April 3: Make Easter lilies last for years to come
March 31: In praise of a pollinator magnet (small-leaf salvias)
March 24: Azaleas brighten shady spots
March 17: The perfect flower for beginners? Try zonal geraniums
March 10: Keep camellias happy for years to come
March 3: Fruit tree blossoms are a fleeting joy
Feb. 27: Are your roses looking rusty?
Feb. 24: Treasure spring daffodils now and for years to come
Feb. 17: How and why to grow wildflowers
Feb. 10: Let's talk Valentine's Day roses
Feb. 3: Why grow flowers?
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Garden checklist for week of June 14
We'll be back to normal temperatures for mid-June (about 86 degrees) by Thursday. In the meanwhile:
* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.
* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.
* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.
* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.
* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.
* Avoid pot “hot feet.” Place a 1-inch-thick board under container plants sitting on pavement. This little cushion helps insulate them from radiated heat.
* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.
* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.
* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.
* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don't let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.
* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.
* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.
* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.
* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.
* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.
* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes. There’s still time to plant melons, pumpkins and squash from seed.
* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, bidens, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening
WINTER
Is edible gardening possible indoors?
Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
How to squeeze more food into less space
Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
Ways to win the fight against weeds
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth