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The right mulch could help save your house and garden

Fire-resistant mulch benefits your landscape while also buffering against wildfire

Fine, rich compost like this, with relatively high moisture content,  is less flammable than other organic mulches. It also benefits the soil under it.

Fine, rich compost like this, with relatively high moisture content, is less flammable than other organic mulches. It also benefits the soil under it. Kathy Morrison

Summer is prime fire season in California. It’s also when our gardens really benefit from moisture-saving mulch.

Use the right mulch in the right place – including fire-prone landscapes. What you put on the ground makes a big difference for your plants as well as fire retardation.

What’s the best choice for maintaining moisture and fire safety, too?

– Start with composted mulch. Its relatively high moisture and nutritional content benefit soil, but it’s less flammable than other organic mulches.

“Research indicates that composted mulch is less flammable,” explains Bruno Pitton, UC Cooperative Extension Environmental Horticulture Advisor for Placer and Nevada counties. “The inference is that composted mulch has less carbon to burn and, with a smaller particle size, there’s less oxygen (to feed flames).”

In addition, fine-particle, moist mulch can act as a buffer to embers. According to Cal Fire, ember ignition is the leading cause of home loss during wildfires, with an estimated 90% of homes destroyed indirectly by wind-borne embers. That’s true in fire-prone areas that border wildlands as well as suburban wildfires.

“Composted mulch is less likely to ignite,” says Pitton. “When it does, it smolders; it doesn’t flame.”

Organic mulch – such as wood chips, dried leaves, straw or compost – helps soil retain moisture as well as suppresses weeds. It naturally regulates soil temperature, keeping plant roots comfortable, while slowly adding nutrients.

In fire-prone areas, taking that extra step to compost the mulch before applying it around plants can be the difference between fueling a blaze and possibly stopping one.

– Size matters; smaller is better. Some commercial mulches such as shredded redwood bark or “gorilla hair” can be problematic; it burns easily when fresh. Choose smaller wood chips (not shreds) instead of large pieces of bark.

“All plants are going to burn if it gets hot enough,” Pitton explains. “The main thing that lowers flammability is moisture content.”

That goes for plants as well as mulch. “Flat thin leaves are more flammable; they dry out really fast,” he adds. “And dried leaves are really flammable. So are pine needles. Think about a campfire – what do you use for kindling?”

Pine needles aren’t recommended for composting; they’re slow to break down. But dried leaves make excellent compost fodder, Pitton notes. “Instead of using your dried leaves for mulch, compost them. Then, use the compost for mulch.”

Small bark chips offer positives for fire-resistant mulch; the qualities that help bark protect evergreen trees also makes bark a good mulch. Bark chips hold more water than dried leaves, etc., while also containing hydrophobic compounds that are resistant to water penetration.

“They break down slowly,” Pitton says. “Use the fine size; it has a lower risk of ignition than coarse bark. Composted bark would be OK, too.”

Why small? “Large particles hold a lot of oxygen between them. Coarse bark has plenty of room for embers to catch. And worse, they can become flaming.”

– Mixed chips work, just not too thick. Arborist wood chips – a mix of wood varieties and sizes, chipped from downed or trimmed neighborhood trees – offer the positives of other organic mulches. (That’s the kind of wood chips available from local tree trimmers.)

Arborists chips
Arborist wood chips can be broken down quickly
with regular irrigation.

Pitton has experimented with arborist wood chip mulch in his own home landscape and found that regular irrigation greatly speeds its break down. In his experiment, arborist wood chips decomposed 16% in 100 days. By comparison, nature’s wood mulch on the forest floor decomposes only 10% in two years.

Cal Fire recommends keeping wood chips or other mulch no more than 3 inches deep. “If (the mulch) does catch, there’s not too much fuel,” Pitton says.

– Composted arborist wood chips are best. That’s what Pitton recommends and uses. “You can compost the chips yourself and apply it yourself. In summer, give it a little irrigation just like a compost pile (to keep it from drying out).”

When applying mulch, allow space (6 inches to 2 feet) around the trunks of trees or shrubs. Keeping mulch away from trunks not only helps prevent crown rot, but offers it some extra fire protection, just in case. “Even if the mulch only smolders, it’s hot enough to kill the plant.”

– Use hardscape within 5 feet of your house or other buildings. As part of Cal Fire’s recommendations for defensible space, use gravel, rock, pavers, concrete or other hardscape around structures – no bark or organic mulches.

More tips on defensible space: https://www.fire.ca.gov/dspace

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Garden checklist for week of June 14

We'll be back to normal temperatures for mid-June (about 86 degrees) by Thursday. In the meanwhile:

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.

* Avoid pot “hot feet.” Place a 1-inch-thick board under container plants sitting on pavement. This little cushion helps insulate them from radiated heat.

* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.

* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don't let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes. There’s still time to plant melons, pumpkins and squash from seed.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, bidens, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth