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5 problems in the late spring garden

Summer's essentially here, and bringing its challenges

The navel orange tree these fell from is self-editing, reducing the number of oranges it can support before summer hits. The tree may still need some hand-thinning.

The navel orange tree these fell from is self-editing, reducing the number of oranges it can support before summer hits. The tree may still need some hand-thinning. Kathy Morrison

The weather's heating up. Hot weather stresses plants. How the resulting problems are handled often separates the casual gardener from the experienced one.

Here are five common problems in the garden right now. Most are normal, at least one may need immediate attention:

-- Why is my orange tree dropping so much of its little fruit? This is known as "June drop," although it can happen in May or July, too. The tree does some natural thinning of the small pollinated fruit. It's rather like checking your bank balance, then removing items from your grocery cart. Don't need it, don't need it, don't need it.

This thinning can happen with other fruit trees, although it seems most dramatic with citrus. Make sure the tree is receiving adequate water. Also, if many leaves are turning yellow, it may be nitrogen-deficient. (A few yellow leaves is normal.)

Citrus and other fruit trees may still need some hand-thinning before the fruit gets bigger than 1 inch in diameter. Too many on one small branch can bring down the branch, harming the tree's health and reducing the year's crop. 

-- Why are the leaves curling on my tomato plants? The easiest answer is that it's not watered enough. The leaf curling is the plant's way of protecting itself, lessening the amount of water lost to transpiration.  Tomato plants thrive on deep, infrequent watering, sending out their roots deep into the soil. Frequent short irrigation times do very little to develop long roots, and the plants will become more stressed as the temperatures rise. There are other, more serious reasons leaves will curl, but if the plant looks healthy otherwise, at this time of year the answer is likely watering.

-- Speaking of tomatoes, one of the plants has some yellow leaves with brown or black spots. What's wrong? Oh, now this is not something to ignore. There are several diseases that can cause spots, including early blight, which we don't usually have to deal with in our dry summers, but the May rain we received may be the culprit here: Early blight is spread by splashing water and germinates on moist leaves. Cut off the infected leaves and dispose of them; do not compost. Avoid overhead watering.

The other possible diseases are bacterial spot or bacterial speck. These diseases also can be spread by overhead watering, splashing rain or working with wet, infected plants. Handle the diseased leaves just as with early blight.

In all of these cases, warm, dry weather will reduce the spread of the disease. Make sure the plant stays healthy: Stress invites pests (such as spider mites) and other diseases. 

-- One more tomato problem: The plant has flowers, but it's not setting fruit. What's happening? Tomatoes like warm weather, but heat spikes (over 95 degrees) will dry out the pollen, preventing fruit set. Also, tomatoes are wind pollinated. Help them out by flicking the open flowers with your fingers. (Don't waste money on blossom-set spray -- it's effective at low temperatures, not high ones.) See more advice on tomatoes and heat here

-- Why do my squash plants wilt in the afternoon? Remember those curling tomato leaves? Squash plants (and pumpkins and melons) also react to afternoon heat by reducing their leaf surface. Wilting leaves in the afternoon are not worrisome; wilting in the morning hours means the plant needs water.

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Garden checklist for week of July 12

Get out early in the morning to take care of garden chores. Temperatures are expected to stay below 80 degrees before 10 a.m.

* Remember to water early and deep; your garden depends on you.

* It’s not too late to add a splash of color. Plant petunias, snapdragons, zinnias and marigolds.

* From seed, plant corn, pumpkins, radishes, winter squash and sunflowers.

* Keep your vegetable garden watered, mulched and weeded. Water before 8 a.m. to reduce the chance of fungal infection and to conserve moisture.

* Water before fertilizing vegetables and blooming annuals, perennials and shrubs to give them a boost. Feeding flowering plants every other week will extend their bloom.

* Feed vegetable plants bone meal or other fertilizers high in phosphate to stimulate more blooms and fruiting.

* Don’t let tomatoes wilt or dry out completely. Give tomatoes a deep watering two to three times a week. Harvest vegetables promptly to encourage plants to produce more. Squash especially tends to grow rapidly in hot weather. Keep an eye on zucchini.

* If your melons and squash aren’t setting fruit, give the bees a hand. With a small, soft paintbrush, gather some pollen from male flowers, then brush it inside the female flowers, which have a tiny swelling at the base of their petals. (That's the embryo melon or squash.) Within days, that little swelling should start growing.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushy plants and more flowers in September.

* Remove spent flowers from roses, daylilies and other bloomers as they finish flowering.

* Pinch off blooms from basil so the plant will grow more leaves.

* Cut back lavender after flowering to promote a second bloom.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth