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Prepare your garden for 100-plus degrees

Water deeply, mulch and keep an eye out for sunburn

When sun is no fun: These tomatoes show sunscald damage. Gardeners can use shade cloth, burlap, umbrellas or even old lace tablecloths to give summer vegetables some shade.

When sun is no fun: These tomatoes show sunscald damage. Gardeners can use shade cloth, burlap, umbrellas or even old lace tablecloths to give summer vegetables some shade. Kathy Morrison

Ready for some high heat?

Well into August, Sacramento – and Northern California overall -- will finally experience some of the triple-digit temperatures that are a familiar part of our summers.

“Widespread moderate heat risk,” predicts the National Weather Service, which forecasts 100-plus degrees throughout the region through at least Monday. “This level of heat affects most individuals sensitive to heat, especially those without effective cooling and/or adequate hydration.”

The highs for Sacramento are expected to peak at 103 on Saturday, says the weather service, while areas such as Redding could reach 109.

“If outdoors, stay hydrated, take breaks and find shade,” says the weather service.

Fortunately, this heat wave is expected to be short. High temperatures will drop comfortably to the low 90s by Wednesday. Normal for early August in Sacramento: 92 degrees.

This has been an unusually cool summer for Sacramento, with only four days total all year topping 100 degrees. You – and your garden – may not be prepared.

Don’t let your garden sizzle. Help your plants cope:

* Deep-water shrubs, trees, perennials and vegetables. Give your tomatoes a good soaking.

* Keep soil evenly hydrated; not too wet or completely dried out. Use a moisture meter, long screwdriver or trowel to check. Even moisture is crucial for maturing tomatoes to prevent blossom-end rot.

* Don’t fertilize during a heat wave. It can stress already thirsty plants.

* Watch for sunburn on leaves. Erect temporary shade if needed.

* Protect tomatoes, peppers and eggplant from sunburn as the fruit matures with temporary shade such as umbrellas, shade cloth or even lace tablecloths.

* Sunburn also can damage bark, especially on young trees or shrubs, opening up the plant to wood-boring pests and premature death. It tends to be worse on the west- and south-facing sides of plants.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! Spread a thick, cooling layer of organic material to retain that moisture and keep plant roots temperate. Use straw, old leaves, bark, grass clippings, even shredded newspaper. Don’t use rocks; they retain too much heat.

* Keep an eye on any recent transplants or seedlings. Make sure they stay hydrated. Check soil moisture and water in the early morning or evening.

* Prevent “hot feet” on plants in containers. Put a piece of wood or other wedging under pots to get them off concrete or other hardscape. Creating a little air space under a pot can help cool roots.

* Watch weather reports. Get updated forecasts at https://www.weather.gov/sto/.

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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth