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How to cope with frost after spring buds

Winter storm and chill can damage shoots and new transplants

Hail damage is obvious on baby green strawberries.

Hail damage is obvious on baby green strawberries. Debbie Arrington

So much for an early spring! The cold winter storm that plowed through Northern California this week reminded us: We’re still in winter!

We gardeners can see the damage on tender new growth as well as frost-sensitive plants. Some damage is obvious while other issues will show up later.

According to the National Weather Service, downtown Sacramento got down to 34 degrees in the wee hours of Feb. 18 and again on Feb. 19. Pre-dawn temperatures will continue to flirt with freezing for at least two more nights.

Following spring-like temperatures in the upper 60s and low 70s, this sudden plunge in temperature can kill tender new growth – or transplants altogether.

Signs of frost damage are already prevalent in Sacramento gardens. That chill killed new sprouts and browned transplants as well as burned tender growth on roses and other shrubs that were pushing out shoots.

It’s not unusual for Sacramento to see February frost. But when it follows warm weather (and spring growth spurts), it can cause long-term damage.

Roses, for example, can develop stem cankers – little ulcers on the outside of canes where cells have ruptured. It may appear as purple splotches on fresh green growth. These cankers can take weeks (or even months) to fully develop, but eventually those little splotches lead to the cane dying back.
This is not a late frost – not even close. In 2022, Sacramento saw frost April 12 – more than three weeks after our historic “frost date,” the latest average date of below freezing temperatures.

Besides the cold and frost danger, plants got a cold frontal assault from the recent storm, too. Some areas saw hail, some even had snow.

According to reports, snow on Thursday reached all the way down to 1,000 feet in the Sierra foothills. Auburn, Grass Valley, Amador and other communities saw at least a dusting with slushy accumulations on lawns and parking lots.

Hail damage depends on the size and intensity. Often, it leads to little nicks (especially on young strawberries or other forming fruit) or pokes holes in large leaves. It can devastate the blossoms on stone fruit trees.

Most everybody got a lot of rain. Sunday through Tuesday (Feb. 15-17), Sacramento received more than 2.5 inches. Our soil maybe saturated – leading to other issues.

Another storm is headed our way, says the weather service. With strong winds, this incoming system could bring another inch of rain, starting early Tuesday.

How can you protect your tender transplants from this unstable winter weather? Here are some possibilities:

* Use a plastic milk or water jug as a mini hot house over a new transplant. Cut out the bottom and leave off the cap. This do-it-yourself “hot cap” will protect the transplant from wind chill and frost danger.

Keep those protective jugs handy for frosty nights. They can be removed during the day (especially if high temperatures heat back up to the 70s) or left in place.

* In the afternoon before a frost forecast, deep water tender plants; that extra moisture keeps the ground warm enough to avoid damage.

* Also, deep water citrus trees, which are bearing ripe now and beginning to bloom.

* Make sure to mulch your veggies. Those wood chips or leaves act like a blanket over plant roots, keeping them moist and cozy.

* Leave frost damage on the plant; it can prevent further injury. When temperatures warm up reliably in late March or April, trim off the damaged foliage from shrubs. Frost-burned transplants may need to be replaced.

For latest Sacramento-area weather updates: https://www.weather.gov/sto/

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Garden checklist for week of May 31

Remember to water early. No more rain is in the immediate forecast.

* It’s not too late to transplant tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or other summer favorites. Make sure they stay hydrated.

* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias.

* It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the early hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth