What could be wrong (or right) with this year's tomato crop
Yellow pigment in tomatoes is less hampered by high temperatures than red pigment, and cherry tomatoes are more heat-tolerant than large ones. Which makes yellow cherry tomatoes perfect to grow in Sacramento summers. Kathy Morrison
For many Sacramento-area gardeners, Independence Day is the unofficial due date for the first round of ripe tomatoes. If you can harvest your first tomatoes by July 4, you know you’re headed to a good tomato season.
Generally, if you transplanted your tomatoes outside in April, they should be producing mature tomatoes by early July. But variables in weather have made that rule of green thumb less dependable.
Which leads to tomato envy – and lots of questions. Why aren’t my tomatoes ripe? Or, worse, why don’t my vines have any tomatoes?
Farmer Fred Hoffman made note of this conundrum in his current “Beyond the Garden Basics” newsletter.
“Many area gardeners are wondering about the lack of color of their tomatoes now, in mid summer,” observed Hoffman. “Blame the triple-digit heat spikes that have occurred coast to coast for the slowdown this summer.”
Tomatoes like it hot – but not too hot. Temperatures above 95 degrees hamper pollination and ripening.
“Researchers from across the country have studied the effect of excess heat on ripening tomatoes,” Hoffman added. “Their consensus: Don’t worry, be happy. Those tomatoes will still be edible. And if you want to speed up the ripening process, harvest those tomatoes that are beginning to show color before the next forecast triple-digit heatwave hits. Let them ripen indoors, in a dark place on the kitchen counter.”
Other factors may be in play, too, he said. Too much shade or lack of foliage can impede ripening tomatoes.
Hoffman, a lifetime master gardener, cites UC research on tomato fruiting and ripening. No ripe tomatoes in July could be because:
* Nights were too cold (under 55 degrees).
* Days were too hot (over 95 degrees).
* Tomatoes were set out too early (cold soil inhibits growth and development).
* Too much shade; tomatoes need at least six hours of sun daily.
* Too much nitrogen fertilizer; it produces lots of leaves but no tomatoes.
Heirloom varieties tend to be extra fussy, he added. They need just-right conditions in order to produce a good crop.
As for ripening, red pigments in tomatoes don’t form properly when temperatures are regularly above 95 degrees, but yellow and orange pigments do. So yellow and orange tomato varieties can reach their full colorful ripeness on the vine, but red ones need cooler afternoons.
Read more of Farmer Fred’s tomato observations, research and advice here: https://gardenbasics.net/
As for my own tomatoes, I got lucky. I harvested four Early Girls last week and a whole pint of Sun Gold cherry tomatoes plus a few Juliet tomatoes, too. Fingers crossed, my vines will keep up the good work.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
FALL
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Nov. 16
During breaks in the weather, tackle some garden tasks:
* Clear gutters and storm drains.
* Prune dead or broken branches from trees.
* After the storm, seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.
* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.
* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.
* Plant garlic and onions.
* Plant bulbs at two-week intervals to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.
* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.
* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting them. Do leave some (healthy) leaves in the planting beds for wildlife and beneficial insect habitat.
* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.
* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.
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