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Hay vs. straw mulch? It depends on the source

Alfalfa or clover hay can be a superior mulch, says longtime farmer and organic gardener

Bob Cooperrider's garden in Lincoln is mulched with hay. Hay that comes from clover or alfalfa, he says, will not have seeds.

Bob Cooperrider's garden in Lincoln is mulched with hay. Hay that comes from clover or alfalfa, he says, will not have seeds. Courtesy Bob Cooperrider

One of the great things about gardening: You learn something every day.

Case in point: There’s not only a difference between hay and straw, but not all hay is the same either.

This observation came from longtime organic gardener Bob Cooperrider of Lincoln. He grows hay and uses it as mulch for his veggies.

“I like to see accurate information in the newsletter,” wrote Cooperrider to Sacramento Digs Gardening. “So I must respond because this comment about the difference between hay and straw is a common misconception. But it is backwards.”

The misconception? It was contained in Tuesday’s blog post and a recommendation on mulch:

“Many gardeners prefer straw (not hay) because its light color reflects intense sun rays instead of absorbing that added heat. (Also, hay contains seeds that can sprout and suck nutrients out of soil; straw has no seed.)”

With plenty of horse people in my family, I grew up with the axiom, “Hay is food, straw is bedding.” That’s how you could tell them apart; hay had nutritional content while straw did not. (That’s also why a bale of hay costs more than a bale of straw.)

I’ve also learned from experience: Hay mulch can produce lots and lots of sprouts.

At least, it does if that hay came from oats, wheat or other grains. By definition, hay is dried plant material – legumes (alfalfa or clover) or grasses (such as grains, etc.) – used as animal feed.

Hay from alfalfa or clover works fine as mulch. So notes Cooperrider, who has decades of experience.

“As a longtime grain and hay farmer, I can tell you that hay is cuttings of green plants just before they flower,” he explained. “Up to six cuttings of alfalfa hay a year are made in the hotter areas of California. There are no seeds in alfalfa or clover hay, only dried green plants. Hay is highly nutritious and high in nitrogen. It is primarily used as horse and goat feed. 

“Conversely, straw is the stems and some seed heads of grain or grass seed left after harvest of the grain or grass mature plants,” he added. “Straw is what comes out of the back of a grain combine harvester after the mature crop has been cut and threshed by the machine. Straw is very low in nutrients. It’s often used for animal bedding to soak up the animal urine and feces. Straw is not a nutritious feed and it may have some residual seeds left from the threshing of the mature plants.”

Cooperrider shared photos of his own veggie garden, mulched with alfalfa hay.

“Notice that the sun bleaches the green dry alfalfa very quickly to a light color very similar to that of wheat or oat straw,” he said. “I've been an organic gardener and farmer for more than 55 years.”

Cooperrider’s point is that most California hay comes from legumes so won’t sprout when used as mulch while the straw originates from grains and could contain some seed. The alfalfa hay also provides more nitrogen than dried straw.

So, hay can be a recommended mulch – as long as it’s alfalfa or clover hay.

Thanks, Bob!

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Garden Checklist for week of June 15

Make the most of this “average” weather; your garden is growing fast! (So are the weeds!)

* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.

* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don’t let them dry out completely. That can encourage blossom-end rot.

* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.

* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.

* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.

* Pull weeds before they go to seed.

* Let the grass grow longer. Set the mower blades high to reduce stress on your lawn during summer heat. To cut down on evaporation, water your lawn deeply during the wee hours of the morning, between 2 and 8 a.m.

* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.

* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.

* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.

* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather. It also helps smother weeds.

* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.

* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.

* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.

* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.

* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.

* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.

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