Alfalfa or clover hay can be a superior mulch, says longtime farmer and organic gardener
Bob Cooperrider's garden in Lincoln is mulched with hay. Hay that comes from clover or alfalfa, he says, will not have seeds. Courtesy Bob Cooperrider
One of the great things about gardening: You learn something every day.
Case in point: There’s not only a difference between hay and straw, but not all hay is the same either.
This observation came from longtime organic gardener Bob Cooperrider of Lincoln. He grows hay and uses it as mulch for his veggies.
“I like to see accurate information in the newsletter,” wrote Cooperrider to Sacramento Digs Gardening. “So I must respond because this comment about the difference between hay and straw is a common misconception. But it is backwards.”
The misconception? It was contained in Tuesday’s blog post and a recommendation on mulch:
“Many gardeners prefer straw (not hay) because its light color reflects intense sun rays instead of absorbing that added heat. (Also, hay contains seeds that can sprout and suck nutrients out of soil; straw has no seed.)”
With plenty of horse people in my family, I grew up with the axiom, “Hay is food, straw is bedding.” That’s how you could tell them apart; hay had nutritional content while straw did not. (That’s also why a bale of hay costs more than a bale of straw.)
I’ve also learned from experience: Hay mulch can produce lots and lots of sprouts.
At least, it does if that hay came from oats, wheat or other grains. By definition, hay is dried plant material – legumes (alfalfa or clover) or grasses (such as grains, etc.) – used as animal feed.
Hay from alfalfa or clover works fine as mulch. So notes Cooperrider, who has decades of experience.
“As a longtime grain and hay farmer, I can tell you that hay is cuttings of green plants just before they flower,” he explained. “Up to six cuttings of alfalfa hay a year are made in the hotter areas of California. There are no seeds in alfalfa or clover hay, only dried green plants. Hay is highly nutritious and high in nitrogen. It is primarily used as horse and goat feed.
“Conversely, straw is the stems and some seed heads of grain or grass seed left after harvest of the grain or grass mature plants,” he added. “Straw is what comes out of the back of a grain combine harvester after the mature crop has been cut and threshed by the machine. Straw is very low in nutrients. It’s often used for animal bedding to soak up the animal urine and feces. Straw is not a nutritious feed and it may have some residual seeds left from the threshing of the mature plants.”
Cooperrider shared photos of his own veggie garden, mulched with alfalfa hay.
“Notice that the sun bleaches the green dry alfalfa very quickly to a light color very similar to that of wheat or oat straw,” he said. “I've been an organic gardener and farmer for more than 55 years.”
Cooperrider’s point is that most California hay comes from legumes so won’t sprout when used as mulch while the straw originates from grains and could contain some seed. The alfalfa hay also provides more nitrogen than dried straw.
So, hay can be a recommended mulch – as long as it’s alfalfa or clover hay.
Thanks, Bob!
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
FALL
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Nov. 16
During breaks in the weather, tackle some garden tasks:
* Clear gutters and storm drains.
* Prune dead or broken branches from trees.
* After the storm, seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.
* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.
* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.
* Plant garlic and onions.
* Plant bulbs at two-week intervals to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.
* Save dry stalks and seedpods from poppies and coneflowers for fall bouquets and holiday decorating.
* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting them. Do leave some (healthy) leaves in the planting beds for wildlife and beneficial insect habitat.
* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.
* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.
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