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Hay vs. straw mulch? It depends on the source

Alfalfa or clover hay can be a superior mulch, says longtime farmer and organic gardener

Bob Cooperrider's garden in Lincoln is mulched with hay. Hay that comes from clover or alfalfa, he says, will not have seeds.

Bob Cooperrider's garden in Lincoln is mulched with hay. Hay that comes from clover or alfalfa, he says, will not have seeds. Courtesy Bob Cooperrider

One of the great things about gardening: You learn something every day.

Case in point: There’s not only a difference between hay and straw, but not all hay is the same either.

This observation came from longtime organic gardener Bob Cooperrider of Lincoln. He grows hay and uses it as mulch for his veggies.

“I like to see accurate information in the newsletter,” wrote Cooperrider to Sacramento Digs Gardening. “So I must respond because this comment about the difference between hay and straw is a common misconception. But it is backwards.”

The misconception? It was contained in Tuesday’s blog post and a recommendation on mulch:

“Many gardeners prefer straw (not hay) because its light color reflects intense sun rays instead of absorbing that added heat. (Also, hay contains seeds that can sprout and suck nutrients out of soil; straw has no seed.)”

With plenty of horse people in my family, I grew up with the axiom, “Hay is food, straw is bedding.” That’s how you could tell them apart; hay had nutritional content while straw did not. (That’s also why a bale of hay costs more than a bale of straw.)

I’ve also learned from experience: Hay mulch can produce lots and lots of sprouts.

At least, it does if that hay came from oats, wheat or other grains. By definition, hay is dried plant material – legumes (alfalfa or clover) or grasses (such as grains, etc.) – used as animal feed.

Hay from alfalfa or clover works fine as mulch. So notes Cooperrider, who has decades of experience.

“As a longtime grain and hay farmer, I can tell you that hay is cuttings of green plants just before they flower,” he explained. “Up to six cuttings of alfalfa hay a year are made in the hotter areas of California. There are no seeds in alfalfa or clover hay, only dried green plants. Hay is highly nutritious and high in nitrogen. It is primarily used as horse and goat feed. 

“Conversely, straw is the stems and some seed heads of grain or grass seed left after harvest of the grain or grass mature plants,” he added. “Straw is what comes out of the back of a grain combine harvester after the mature crop has been cut and threshed by the machine. Straw is very low in nutrients. It’s often used for animal bedding to soak up the animal urine and feces. Straw is not a nutritious feed and it may have some residual seeds left from the threshing of the mature plants.”

Cooperrider shared photos of his own veggie garden, mulched with alfalfa hay.

“Notice that the sun bleaches the green dry alfalfa very quickly to a light color very similar to that of wheat or oat straw,” he said. “I've been an organic gardener and farmer for more than 55 years.”

Cooperrider’s point is that most California hay comes from legumes so won’t sprout when used as mulch while the straw originates from grains and could contain some seed. The alfalfa hay also provides more nitrogen than dried straw.

So, hay can be a recommended mulch – as long as it’s alfalfa or clover hay.

Thanks, Bob!

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Garden checklist for week of April 19

After this midweek storm, start getting serious about spring gardening. Flowers are blooming about three weeks ahead of schedule. That includes weeds!

* Get ready to swing into action in the vegetable garden – if you haven’t already. As nights warm up over 50 degrees, set out tomato, pepper and eggplant transplants.

* From seed, plant beans, beets, cantaloupes, carrots, corn, cucumbers, melons,  radishes and squash; wait on pumpkins until May. Plant onion sets.

* In the flower garden, plant seeds for asters, cosmos, celosia, marigolds, salvia, sunflowers and zinnias. Transplant petunias, zinnias, geraniums and other summer bloomers.

* Plant perennials and dahlia tubers for summer bloom. Late April is about the last chance to plant summer bulbs, such as gladiolus and tuberous begonias.

* Transplant lettuce and cabbage seedlings.

* April is the last chance to plant citrus trees such as dwarf orange, lemon and kumquat. These trees also look good in landscaping and provide fresh fruit in winter.

* Smell orange blossoms? Give citrus trees a low dose of balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) during bloom to help set fruit. Keep an eye out for ants. If leaves look yellow, your tree may need an iron boost -- apply some chelated iron fertilizer.

* Apply slow-release fertilizer to the lawn.

* Thoroughly clean debris from the bottom of outdoor ponds or fountains.

* Spring brings a flush of rapid growth, and that means your garden needs nutrition. Give shrubs and trees a slow-release fertilizer. Mulch with a 1-inch layer of compost, which helps the soil, but keep it a few inches away from trunks and stems.

* Azaleas and camellias looking a little yellow? If leaves are turning yellow between the veins, give them a boost with chelated iron.

* Trim dead flowers but not leaves from spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. Those leaves gather energy to create next year's flowers. Also, give the bulbs a fertilizer boost after bloom.

* Pinch chrysanthemums back to 12 inches for fall flowers. Cut old stems to the ground.

* Mulch around plants to conserve moisture and control weeds.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth