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Pick oranges now or wait? Here's how to know

Taste-test the fruit -- every year can be slightly different

These Washington navel oranges are very close to ripe. Taste one if you're not sure -- but it's best not to pick them all at once.

These Washington navel oranges are very close to ripe. Taste one if you're not sure -- but it's best not to pick them all at once. Kathy Morrison

In early December a few years ago, I arrived at my community garden and noticed that the little navel orange tree in the Garden of Eatin' area (available to all the gardeners) had been picked clean. Oh, no, I thought, those oranges weren't ripe yet. 

Sure enough, one of the other gardeners mentioned that he had tried one. "It was sour!" he said with surprise. Yes, the fruit had been orange in color, but it was too soon -- the sweetness that develops with colder weather hadn't happened yet. Another (small) crop lost to inexperience with the quirks of citrus trees.

Growing citrus can be, as I noted once, like keeping a pet cat: You love it, but rarely understand it. The trees follow their own calendar, which is nothing like the timelines for cherries or apples. The master gardener help desk often receives questions about citrus trees or fruit from perplexed homeowners.

Some citrus can be used at various stages of ripeness -- limes being a good example -- but navel oranges need to be fully ripe to be enjoyed.

So how to tell? There are clues: They should have full color, be heavy for their size, and be firm but not rock-hard -- they should give just slightly when squeezed.

But by far the best test is tasting one, or two, really: One from each side of a full-size tree. (One from a container tree should be plenty.) If it doesn't taste ripe, wait a week and try again.

One of my neighbors traditionally picks all her oranges on Christmas Day. That to me is a gamble -- and unless she gives most of the fruit away, creates other problems. Storage, for one. (If you must: Keep them in boxes in a cold garage, in one layer. Or juice them and freeze the juice.)

Also, citrus does not ripen off the tree, so whatever stage that fruit was in will be the stage it stays in, until it's eaten or rots.

"Storing" the fruit on the tree is generally the best move, with one caveat: If a hard frost is expected, pick all the ripe fruit before the cold hits. Make sure the tree is well-watered, too. Orange trees can survive temperatures down to 21 degrees, but the fruit may be damaged below 27 degrees or so, according to the UC Cooperative Extension experts. (The Sacramento master gardeners' Garden Note 127, "Growing Citrus in Sacramento," has a wealth of information. It can be found via "The Home Orchard" page on the master gardeners' website; it's the first link under Master Gardener publications and videos.)

"Citrus sensitivity to cold also depends on how long it stays cold, whether the trees are exposed or in a protected area, whether the trees are in a low area where cold air collects, and how old the trees are," the information also explains.

So become familiar with the timeline for your own tree or trees, noting the changes in the weather as winter continues. And enjoy those gorgeous oranges you've been growing all these months!

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

FALL

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth

WINTER

March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds

March 4: Potatoes from the garden

Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space

Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting

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Garden checklist for week of Nov. 30

It's going to get colder after the fog (finally) dissipates. Without the fog, damp ground will finally have a chance to dry out – and no rain is in the forecast for at least a week.

Make the most of this break in the weather and tackle late fall chores:

* Protect tender plants from possible frost damage. Don’t leave poinsettias outdoors.

* Rake and compost leaves, but dispose of any diseased plant material. For example, if peach and nectarine trees showed signs of leaf curl this year, clean up under trees and dispose of those leaves instead of composting.

* Clear gutters and storm drains.

* Prune dead or broken branches from trees.

* For holiday blooms indoors, plant paperwhite narcissus bulbs now. Fill a shallow bowl or dish with 2 inches of rocks or pebbles. Place bulbs in the dish with the root end nestled in the rocks. Add water until it just touches the bottom of the bulbs. Place the dish in a sunny window. Add water as needed.

* Plant bulbs at two-week intervals to spread out your spring bloom. Some possible suggestions: daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, tulips, anemones and scillas.

* Seed wildflowers and plant such spring bloomers as sweet pea, sweet alyssum and bachelor buttons.

* Set out cool-weather annuals such as pansies and snapdragons.

* Lettuce, cabbage and broccoli also can be planted now.

* Plant garlic and onions.

* Give your azaleas, gardenias and camellias a boost with chelated iron.

* For larger blooms, pinch off some camellia buds.

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