Recipe: A cobbler perfect for a seasonal transition
Spices give Asian pears a subtle boost in flavor in this summer-into-fall cobbler. Kathy Morrison
A gift of Asian pears sent me on a search for seasonal recipes. I believed that this orchard fruit, which exists somewhere between apple and standard pear, was always served raw, crunchy. So did most of the recipe writers, apparently. I found many salads that included it -- including an intriguing slaw.
Was there a way to cook this lovely summer-into-fall fruit? The weather was turning cooler -- baking weather! Then I found a New York Times recipe, "Fruit Cobbler with Any Fruit."
I took that title as a challenge, not a statement. The cobbler here is my riff on the recipe, with several adjustments to the filling, and a suggestion for changing up the biscuit topping, too.
It is an excellent dessert (especially with vanilla ice cream), but could make a lovely brunch dish. To test it, I made just a half recipe of the filling, though mixed a full recipe of the biscuits so I could freeze some for another time. The recipe version printed here is the full 8 servings.
A note on the fruit: Asian pears ARE crunchy, right off the tree. Several of mine had just started to soften, however, so I used those first, but included 1 crunchy pear to see how it baked. I tossed in a Bosc pear that was at the use-it-now-or-compost-it-tomorrow stage.
The filling's baked texture was firm but thoroughly cooked, like baking with firm apples. My fruit was small -- see the photo -- so I needed about 9 of them to reach 5 cups.
The original recipe had no spices in it, but I had to include cardamom, which plays so well with pears. Cinnamon and just a hint of ginger went in, too. But use what you like -- almond extract would be another possible addition. Next time I might include some crystallized ginger bits among the pears.
Spiced Asian pear cobbler
Serves 8
Ingredients:
Biscuits:
1-3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (or 1-1/2 cup flour and 1/4 cup fine cornmeal)
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed
1/2 cup buttermilk (or plain yogurt, not Greek)
1/4 cup heavy cream, plus 1 tablespoon, divided
Filling:
10 to 11 cups peeled, cored and sliced Asian pears, or a mix of Asian and Bosc pears
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
3 tablespoons minute tapioca OR 1-1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
Turbinado or other crunchy sugar, for sprinkling
Instructions:
Cover a small rimmed baking sheet or large plate with a piece of parchment or waxed paper. Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, soda and salt. Cut in the cold butter cubes with a pastry cutter or two knives until the mixture resembles coarse meal. (Alternatively, combine the dry ingredients in a food processsor, add the butter, and pulse a few times to cut in the butter. )
Drizzle in the buttermilk and 1/4 cup cream, and stir (or pulse) until the mixture is just combined.
Pat the dough together, either in the bowl or on a lightly floured surface. Using a soup spoon or one of similar size, scoop 2-inch mounds of dough and roll them into balls with your hands. Place the balls on the parchment-covered baking sheet or plate, leaving space between them. The recipe will yield about 10 balls.
Flatten the balls with your hand to 3/4-inch thick, cover them with plastic, then place the baking sheet or plate in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes and up to 8 hours. (A quick chill in the freezer works, too, but don't forget they're in there!)
Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
In a large bowl, toss together the prepared pears, the sugars, spices and the minute tapioca or cornstarch. Allow to sit for 20 minutes -- this hydrates the tapioca pearls.
When ready to bake, pour the fruit (and any accumulated juices) into a large baking dish or 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Top the fruit with the biscuits, leaving space between them to expand. Brush the biscuits with the remaining 1 tablespoon cream, then sprinkle on the turbinado or other crunchy sugar.
Bake until the biscuits are golden brown and you can see bubbling among the fruit, about 1 hour. (About 50 minutes for a 1/2 recipe.) Remove the pan to a cooling rack and allow to cool 30 minutes before serving; the biscuits and fruit will still be warm. Or allow to cool completely and serve later at room temperature.
Note on freezing the extra biscuits for later: I double-wrapped them before freezing. They should bake fine straight from the freezer, though likely will require a few additional minutes.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
WINTER:
Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18
Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!
* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.
* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.
* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.
* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.
* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.
* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.
* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.
* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.
* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.
* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.
* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.
* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.
* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.
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