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One last gasp for summer vegetables

Triple-digit heat again challenges tomatoes, squash

These tomatoes were pollinated during the recent weather break -- before this week's triple-digit heat. But will they have time to mature before fall weather settles in?

These tomatoes were pollinated during the recent weather break -- before this week's triple-digit heat. But will they have time to mature before fall weather settles in? Debbie Arrington

To pull or not to pull? That’s the question after high temperatures just about finished off our summer crops.

Sacramento started September with a string of triple-digit days. On Friday (Sept. 6), the Sacramento region remained under a heat advisory until 8 p.m. So far this month, daytime highs averaged just under 96 degrees – almost five degrees above normal for this week.

This heat browned leaves and vines on many plants. It also brought bee activity (so crucial for pollination) to a standstill. And that impacted squash.

In this weather, zucchini develop little baby squash that start out OK, but never seem to develop. It rots before it reaches 4 or 5 inches long. The Brits call it “courgette rot,” referring to the English name for zucchini. It’s due to insufficient pollination.

Extreme heat complicates bees’ lives. If temperatures top 100 degrees (as it has almost daily this month), worker bees need to bring water back to their hives, from one quart to a gallon a day. They’re too busy to pollinate.

So, female zucchini blossoms – which start forming baby squash before the bees arrive – never get the attention they need from pollinators. Without proper pollination, the squash rot before they mature. This issue can happen to other cucurbits as well such as crookneck squash and pumpkins.

Tomatoes depend on wind, not bees, for pollination. But on days above 95 degrees, tomato pollen dries out before it ever has a chance to set fruit.

I’ve been nursing my vines along in hopes of fall tomatoes. Our red-hot July (the hottest July on record in Sacramento) prevented fruit set during a time when tomatoes are usually at their most productive. We had just enough of a break in the weather in August for my tomatoes to set some fruit; those baby green tomatoes are forming now. But will they have enough time to mature?

Although these hot days feel like midsummer, chilly fall weather is not far away. Those baby toms need at least six to eight more weeks of warmth – just not all this heat.

That leads back to the original question: To pull or not to pull? The plants with baby tomatoes or squash – or flowers – can stay put for a little longer. Even if those green tomatoes never turn red on the vine, they may still ripen indoors on the kitchen counter.

Trim off dead or browned leaves and vines, so plants can concentrate on wrapping up their production. Give the bushes a deep watering and some fertilizer high in phosphates such as bone meal. (Hope springs eternal.)

Otherwise, turn the page – and pull out those faded summer crops. Remember: September is an excellent time to plant cool-season vegetables.

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Garden checklist for week of March 15

Enjoy these sunny days and show your garden some TLC. Don’t forget to water.

* Weed, weed, weed! Get them before they flower. Take a hoe and whack them at the base.

* Prepare vegetable beds for summer favorites. Spade in compost and other amendments.

* In the vegetable garden, transplant lettuce. Last chance this spring to transplant cole family plants such as broccoli, collards and kale. 

* Seed chard and beets directly into the ground. Soak beet seeds before planting to aid germination.

* Harvest fall-planted lettuce and cabbage before it “bolts” – sending out flower shoots.

* Fertilize roses, annual flowers and berries as spring growth begins to appear.

* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs after bloom.

* Feed camellias at the end of their bloom cycle. Pick up browned and fallen flowers to help corral blossom blight.

* Feed citrus trees, which are now in bloom and setting fruit. To prevent sunburn and borer problems on young trees, paint the exposed portion of the trunk with diluted white latex (water-based) interior paint. Dilute the paint with an equal amount of cold water before application.

* Feed roses with a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10 or 4-4-4, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium available in that product).

* Prune and fertilize spring-flowering shrubs and trees after they bloom. Try using well-composted manure, spread 1-inch-thick under the tree. This serves as both fertilizer and mulch, retaining moisture while cutting down on weeds.

* Cut back and fertilize perennial herbs to encourage new growth.

* Plant summer bulbs, including gladiolus, tuberous begonias and callas. Also plant dahlia tubers.

* Shop for perennials. Many varieties are available in local nurseries and at plant events. They can be transplanted now while the weather remains relatively cool.

* Seed and renovate the lawn, if you have one. Feed cool-season grasses such as bent, blue, rye and fescue with a slow-release fertilizer. Check the irrigation system and perform maintenance. Make sure sprinkler heads are turned toward the lawn, not the sidewalk.

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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series

Lessons learned during a year of edible gardening

WINTER

Is edible gardening possible indoors?

Hints for choosing tomato seeds

Starting in seed starting

Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees

When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants

How to squeeze more food into less space

Potatoes from the garden

Plant a fruit tree now -- for later

Win the weed war by tackling them in winter

Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables

Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space

Ways to win the fight against weeds

FALL

Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden

Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it

Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come

Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying

Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?

Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden

Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden

Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers

Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air 

Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets

Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty

Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?

Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest 

SUMMER

Sept. 16: Time to shut it down? 

Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch

Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning

Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?

Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you

Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water

Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers

July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?

July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty

July 15: Does this plant need water?

July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions

July 1: How to grow summer salad greens

June 24:  Weird stuff that's perfectly normal

SPRING

June 17: Help pollinators help your garden

June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests

June 3: Make your own compost

May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?

May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days

May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can

May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success

April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?

April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)

April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers

April 8: When to plant summer vegetables

April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths

March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth