Tiny pests thrive during hot, dry, dusty conditions
This squash plant has a bad case of spider mites. Notice the stippling and the delicate webbing along the edge of the leaf in front. Kathy Morrison
Notice lots of fine webs around your garden? Our recent hot, dry, dusty weather has caused an explosion in spider mites.
Although we humans have a tough time dealing with triple-digit heat, this July has been spider mite paradise. The itty-bitty arachnids seem to be spinning their webs over everything: Tomatoes, roses, camellias, berries, fruit trees, you name it.
Shrubs in my backyard are draped with gossamer webbing, layered in tiers from the top leaves down to the ground. The webbing seemed to appear almost overnight; I don’t know for sure. (It was too hot to go outside and check.)
A cousin of spiders, spider mites have built up massive populations in local community gardens as well as backyards. Usually, natural enemies can keep these voracious critters under control. But right now, spider mites are having a baby boom.
Spider mites can produce a whole generation in five to 10 days. Each mama mite can lay 100 eggs. No wonder their numbers can overwhelm a plant in a short time.
Spider mites are so tiny – smaller than the period at the end of this sentence – gardeners usually don’t notice them until they’re mature; that’s when they start spinning their telltale webs.
As they grow, they tend to hide out on the underside of foliage, practically invisible to even the most observant gardeners. Spider mite feeding may cause polka-dot stippling to appear on leaves.
According to the UC Cooperative Extension master gardeners, spider mites attack many fruit trees, shrubs, vines, berries, vegetables and other ornamental plants. Besides tomatoes and roses, they also love beans, grapevines, squash and melons.
The damage at first looks a little like peach leaf curl with foliage developing stipples and turning yellow or red before falling off. Then the webs start appearing, coating leaves and stems.
If left undisturbed, spider mites can overwhelm plants. They’re especially bad during drought conditions or intensely hot and dry weather; they can do the most harm to water-stressed plants.
Spider mites can’t be controlled by insecticides – they’re not an insect, they’re a mite. But miticides are not recommended either, since they kill many beneficial insects in addition to the mites, which often manage to evade pesticide sprays.
Neem oil applied in the early stages of an infestation may smother the mites, but also kills beneficial insects including those that eat mites. In addition, neem oil sprayed on hot days can cook the plant’s foliage – eliminating any benefit.
Instead of neem oil or miticides, grab a hose and make it “rain.” Spider mites are proliferating because of lack of rain and resulting dusty, dry conditions on plants. Washing down foliage mimics a summer storm and disrupts the mites’ happy homes.
Insecticidal soap also can be helpful if applied at the first signs of trouble. Make sure to spray the underside of leaves, too.
The good news? Spider mites usually die out in late summer when their natural enemies can keep their numbers in check. Until then, keep giving plants a gentle morning shower as needed to wash dust and mites away.
For more advice, see the UC IPM pest notes on spider mites: http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7405.html
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Food in My Back Yard Series
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
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Garden Checklist for week of June 8
Get out early to enjoy those nice mornings. There’s plenty to keep gardeners busy:
* Warm weather brings rapid growth in the vegetable garden, with tomatoes and squash enjoying the heat. Deep-water, then feed with a balanced fertilizer. Bone meal or rock phosphate can spur the bloom cycle and help set fruit.
* Generally, tomatoes need deep watering two to three times a week, but don’t let them dry out completely. Inconsistent soil moisture can encourage blossom-end rot.
* It’s not too late to transplant tomatoes, peppers or eggplant.
* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.
* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.
* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias.
* It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.
* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.
* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.
* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.
* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.
* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.
* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.
* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.