Early watering and extra worries define these hot days
This instant-read thermometer shows the air temperature at 104.2 degrees in shade at 2:35 p.m. today, July 4. It was about 9 degrees higher in full sun. Kathy Morrison
Sacramento gardeners know how to handle summer heat: It comes with the territory. But the current extended heat wave is testing even the most experienced among us. We planted gardens in the expectation of crops, flowers, shade and beauty. Our gardens in turn depend on us to provide optimum conditions for growth. Not unlike children, come to think of it.
I was contemplating all this early today while at my community garden plot. Here, on the morning of a national holiday, it was already 79 degrees, and more than a few of us were up, dressed and working for the survival of our plants -- tending, watering, adjusting shade cloth. Quite a dedicated bunch.
With this in mind, I present the Heat Wave Edition of "You Know You're a Gardener When ..."
-- Your first thought on waking at daylight is "Did the irrigation system go on?" And you jump out of bed to check.
-- The next thing you do is pop open the worm bin, to make sure it's not getting too hot. And prepare a treat for the occupants: "Look, I have watermelon rind for you, your favorite!"
-- You're tempted to put sunscreen on your tomatoes to prevent sunscald. (Uh, don't, but use on lot on yourself. Use shade cloth, burlap or even a lace tablecloth to protect any tomatoes exposed to direct sun.)
-- You decide that deadheading the roses would just mislead them about current conditions.
-- You're willing to sacrifice your beach umbrella to protect that expensive new shrub.
-- You accidentally-on-purpose spray yourself with the hose while wetting down the raised beds.
-- Like an attentive waitperson, you wander around outside with a jug of water asking, "Anyone need a refill?" That's always a yes for the little water dishes set out for the bees and wasps -- they dry out in just a few hours.
-- You take your kitchen instant-read thermometer outside to check the afternoon sun-vs.-shade temperatures. It proves there's about 9 degrees difference.
-- You apologize profusely to the citrus tree that hasn't been fertilized since early spring. "You'll just have to wait 'til it's cooler -- fertilizer now isn't recommended."
-- You stand at the window, considering whether it's worth it to run outside into late-afternoon heat to pick some basil for dinner. And then you do it.
-- You decide that any floppy branches create shade and just let them be. For now.
-- You silently celebrate the heat death of weeds.
Happy Fourth of July, gardeners, and congrats on making it this far! Let's all hope for cooler days ahead.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
WINTER:
Jan. 20: Win the weed war by tackling them in winter
Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18
Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!
* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.
* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.
* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.
* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.
* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.
* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.
* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.
* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.
* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.
* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.
* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.
* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.
* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.
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