The ubiquitous tree gives summer landscapes some pop
The fluffy blossoms of the crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) give Sacramento summers plenty of landscape color. Some people aren’t fond of the blossom “snow,” however. Kathy Morrison
How drab the height-of-summer landscape would be without crape myrtle trees.
One of my three crape myrtles is blooming its head off. The light pink blossoms weigh down the branches so much that I emerge with a crown of flowers when I walk underneath. The purple-flowering tree in front and the violet-pink one in back will be showing their colors soon.
Two of these trees were here when we bought our house; I added the third crape myrtle to shade a window.
(Wait, isn't that spelled CREPE myrtle?)
Well, yes, both spellings are correct, but I see that the online Florida company that sells these trees exclusively calls itself The Crape Myrtle Company. So we'll go with that.
I had to laugh when I looked through their catalog: There's a miniature variety, blooming bright deep red, called the Sacramento. It grows to just 2 feet tall. That size would be easy to tuck under the standard variety, rather than the more commonly planted agapanthus.
I do enjoy these trees. They're not too tall, they provide great shade and color in summer, and their roots behave. In winter they pretty much disappear -- except for that pretty bark -- so what daylight we get is not blocked.
My childhood house had a hedge of classic hot-pink crape myrtles, grown as bushes. We played with the buds, squeezing them until they popped open.
But not everyone is a fan. Maybe the trees were not planted in the right location, spilling their blossoms all over the sidewalk or cars. Some varieties are susceptible to powdery mildew. Sometimes they attract aphids, which can mean sticky honeydew and sooty mold ruining the look of the plant.
But the worst problem with these trees is caused by humans: "crape murder." That's the severe pruning of the trees, supposedly to control the size and/or increase blooming. I particularly hate the pruning that, after a few years, leaves knobby "knuckles"on the tree, from which a "witch's broom" of weak branches sprouts.
I found an excellent description of this crime -- and how to remedy it -- on the Southern Living website here:
Now, I know crape myrtles are not natives. Blooming native trees of the same size include the desert willow; we may see more of those in landscapes as native plants gain wider acceptance.
But our hot summers would be less colorful without crape myrtles, and it always cheers me to see them in bloom. I don't even mind brushing all those pink blossoms out of my hair.
Comments
0 comments have been posted.Sacramento Digs Gardening to your inbox.
Food in My Back Yard Series
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Local News
Thanks to Our Sponsor!
Sites We Like
Garden Checklist for week of June 22
Mornings this first week of summer will remain comfortably cool – just right for gardening!
* Water early in the morning to cut down on evaporation. Check soil moisture and deep water trees and shrubs. Keep new transplants and veggies evenly moist. Deep water tomatoes to encourage deep roots.
* From seed, plant corn, melons, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers.
* Plant basil to go with your tomatoes.
* Transplant summer annuals such as petunias, marigolds and zinnias. It’s also a good time to transplant perennial flowers including astilbe, columbine, coneflowers, coreopsis, dahlias, rudbeckia, salvia and verbena.
* Tie up vines and stake tall plants such as gladiolus and lilies. That gives their heavy flowers some support.
* Dig and divide crowded bulbs after the tops have died down.
* Feed summer flowers with a slow-release fertilizer.
* Mulch, mulch, mulch! This “blanket” keeps moisture in the soil longer and helps your plants cope during hot weather.
* Avoid pot “hot feet.” Place a 1-inch-thick board under container plants sitting on pavement. This little cushion helps insulate them from radiated heat.
* Thin grapes on the vine for bigger, better clusters later this summer.
* Cut back fruit-bearing canes on berries.
* Feed camellias, azaleas and other acid-loving plants. Mulch to conserve moisture and reduce heat stress.
* Cut back Shasta daisies after flowering to encourage a second bloom in the fall.
* Trim off dead flowers from rose bushes to keep them blooming through the summer. Roses also benefit from deep watering and feeding now. A top dressing of aged compost will keep them happy. It feeds as well as keeps roots moist.
* Pinch back chrysanthemums for bushier plants with many more flowers in September.
Powered by California Local
