How to replace turf, prepare soil for future planting
Layered cardboard, green matter (such as garden clippings) and brown matter (such as leaves or straw) makes "lawn lasagna." See "How to Make Lawn Lasagna" at the end of the post. Courtesy BeWaterSmart.info
Is this the summer you finally ditch your lawn? Let our heat be your helper. Summer sun can speed up an easy method of turf removal: Sheet mulching.
“Creating a water-wise landscape can be intimidating,” notes Joanna Solins, environmental horticulture adviser for the UC Cooperative Extension in Sacramento, Solano and Yolo counties. “I think that sheet mulching provides an approachable option for some people, as it’s possible to DIY.”
Sheet mulching is a technique that layers compost, mulch and weed barriers (such as cardboard) on top of the turf. These layers smother the lawn, which eventually breaks down in place. When it comes time to plant, holes are poked through the layers.
“I recommend doing it in the spring or summer,” says Ryan Burnett, interim manager for the City of West Sacramento’s Environmental Services and Sustainability Division. “Once it’s in place, the summer heat comes and you get solarization help. It’s not only covered, but the grass that’s there is getting baked.”
To entice customers to try sheet mulching, the City of West Sacramento offers a “Lawn Begone” voucher worth up to $300 toward compost and mulch. In less than a year, the program has paid vouchers for the removal of up to 27,000 square feet of lawn.
Other water providers offer similar programs or rebates. Find information and links for your provider at https://bewatersmart.info/.
“The voucher program gets people started,” Burnett says. “It’s a big undertaking to go from grass to a full California water-wise landscape. Do the first stage, which is just covering (the turf).”
With sheet mulching, there’s no sod cutting, no loss of top soil and a lot less waste.
“One big benefit of sheet mulching: You’re not digging things up,” Burnett says. “Ripping out a lawn needs heavy equipment; it gets very expensive. Once it’s ripped out, where are you going to put it? You’re removing your topsoil, too.”
Leaving the lawn where it is to decompose not only solves that waste issue, but keeps a lid on weed seeds lurking underneath the turf.
“I like that sheet mulching can be low cost and low waste,” Solins says. “The major known benefits of sheet mulching are that the turf stays in place and breaks down instead of being removed and taken to the landfill, and that it is possible to carry out a full landscape transformation on a small budget and without necessarily using the help of professional landscapers.”
Burnett used sheet mulching at his own West Sacramento home to eliminate Bermuda grass lawns in both his front and backyards. He estimated his new water-wise landscape uses “10 times less water” than the former lawns and requires a lot less work.
His experience also taught him how not to sheet mulch.
“When you do it the wrong way, it’s the worst of both worlds,” he says. “If you put the mulch right on top of the grass with no other barriers (such as cardboard or weed cloth), within two weeks, it will be a real mess with the grass and mulch all mixed together. It doesn’t kill the grass; it feeds it.”
Solins adds, “I think some of the worst drawbacks are seen when people don’t put enough mulch on or wait to mulch. The cardboard shows through and looks very messy, and won’t effectively kill the turf.”
Burnett offers these additional tips:
– Mow the lawn to be removed as short as possible.
– Dig a 6-inch trench around the edges of the area. “That’s where the grass is going to grow back first,” he says. Use the trench to anchor the edges of the cardboard, weed cloth or other weed barrier.
– Shut off irrigation to the area being sheet mulched. Cap the sprinklers and convert them to drip. If you’re going to do this later, remember to mark the sprinkler locations with flags or stakes so you can find them under the layers.
For more tips: https://sacmg.ucanr.edu/Beyond_Lawn/.
How to make ‘lawn lasagna’
Sheet mulching is a great way to convert lawn or other flat landscape areas into healthy garden space. Its layers earned this method the nickname “lawn lasagna”; like horizontal composting, those layers “cook” down in time.
This method also maintains soil moisture, which is critical for both microorganisms and future plants. When ready, plant right through the layers – no tilling necessary.
In the Sacramento area, sheet mulching can be started in early summer or fall. Starting in summer makes use of our abundant heat to speed the decomposition process. When started in fall, autumn leaves can be used as one or more of the layers and winter rain will keep the layers moist (another plus).
One small space can be done at a time — or do the whole lawn. To make your own lawn lasagna, follow these steps for each area of turf to be removed:
1. Mow the lawn as short as possible. Leave clippings in place.
2. Water by hand. Really give the area a deep soaking.
3. Cover with weed barrier such as two or three layers of cardboard, builders paper or several thicknesses of newsprint (no glossy paper). Overlap the edges 4 to 6 inches.
4. Water. Thoroughly wet the cardboard or newsprint.
5. Cover with 1-inch layer of steer or horse manure or compost. Water lightly.
6. Cover with a 2-inch layer of dried leaves, straw, shredded newsprint or other dried or “brown” material. Water lightly.
7. Cover with a 1-inch layer of “green” material, such as more manure, lawn clippings, garden trimmings or vegetable scraps. Cut green ingredients into 2-inch pieces or smaller. Water lightly.
8. Layer more browns and greens until the area is under at least 8 to 12 inches of material. Water lightly after each layer. Finish with a brown layer such as wood chips.
9. Wait. Water only occasionally as needed; compost needs moisture to break down. Expect this step to take three to four months, or more. Areas sheet mulched in June will be ready to plant in fall.
10. Plant. No turning necessary; plant directly through layers.
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Food in My Back Yard (FIMBY) Series
WINTER:
Jan. 13: Tips for planting bare-root trees, shrubs and vegetables
Jan. 6: Hints for choosing tomato seeds
Dec. 30: Why winter is the perfect time to plant fruit trees
Dec. 23: Is edible gardening possible indoors?
FALL
Dec. 16: Add asparagus to your edible garden
Dec. 9: Soggy soil and what to do about it
Dec. 2: Plant artichokes now; enjoy for years to come
Nov. 25: It's late November, and your peach tree needs spraying
Nov. 18: What to do with all those fallen leaves?
Nov. 11: Prepare now for colder weather in the edible garden
Nov. 4: Plant a pea patch for you and your garden
Oct. 27: As citrus season begins, advice for backyard growers
Oct. 20: Change is in the autumn air
Oct. 13: We don't talk (enough) about beets
Oct. 6: Fava beans do double duty
Sept. 30: Seeds or transplants for cool-season veggies?
Sept. 23: How to prolong the fall tomato harvest
SUMMER
Sept. 16: Time to shut it down?
Sept. 9: How to get the most out of your pumpkin patch
Sept. 2: Summer-to-fall transition time for evaluation, planning
Aug. 26: To pick or not to pick those tomatoes?
Aug. 19: Put worms to work for you
Aug. 12: Grow food while saving water
Aug. 5: Enhance your food with edible flowers
July 29: Why won't my tomatoes turn red?
July 22: A squash plant has mosaic virus, and it's not pretty
July 15: Does this plant need water?
July 8: Tear out that sad plant or baby it? Midsummer decisions
July 1: How to grow summer salad greens
June 24: Weird stuff that's perfectly normal
SPRING
June 17: Help pollinators help your garden
June 10: Battling early-season tomato pests
June 3: Make your own compost
May 27: Where are the bees when you need them?
May 20: How to help tomatoes thrive on hot days
May 13: Your plants can tell you more than any calendar can
May 6: Maintain soil moisture with mulch for garden success
April 29: What's (already) wrong with my tomato plants?
April 22: Should you stock up on fertilizer? (Yes!)
April 15: Grow culinary herbs in containers
April 8: When to plant summer vegetables
April 1: Don't be fooled by these garden myths
March 25: Fertilizer tips: How to 'feed' your vegetables for healthy growth
WINTER
March 18: Time to give vegetable seedlings some more space
March 11: Ways to win the fight against weeds
March 4: Potatoes from the garden
Feb. 25: Plant a fruit tree now -- for later
Feb. 18: How to squeeze more food into less space
Feb. 11: When to plant? Consider staggering your transplants
Feb. 4: Starting in seed starting
Sites We Like
Garden checklist for week of Jan. 18
Make the most of these rain-free breaks. Your garden needs you!
* Transplant pansies, violas, calendulas, English daisies, snapdragons and fairy primroses.
* In the vegetable garden, plant fava beans, head lettuce, mustard, onion sets, radicchio and radishes.
* Plant bare-root asparagus and root divisions of rhubarb.
* Plant bare-root roses and fruit trees.
* In the bulb department, plant callas, anemones, ranunculus and gladiolus for bloom from late spring into summer.
* Browse through seed catalogs and start making plans for spring and summer.
* Prune, prune, prune. Now is the time to cut back most deciduous trees and shrubs. The exceptions are spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs.
* Now is the time to prune fruit trees, except cherry and apricot trees. Clean up leaves and debris around the trees to prevent the spread of disease.
* Prune roses, even if they’re still trying to bloom. Strip off any remaining leaves, so the bush will be able to put out new growth in early spring.
* Prune Christmas camellias (Camellia sasanqua), the early-flowering varieties, after their bloom. They don’t need much, but selective pruning can promote bushiness, upright growth and more bloom next winter. Give them an acid-type fertilizer. But don’t fertilize your Japonica camellias until after they finish blooming next month. Doing that while camellias are in bloom may cause them to drop unopened buds.
* Clean up leaves and debris around your newly pruned roses and shrubs. Put down fresh mulch or bark to keep roots cozy.
* Divide daylilies, Shasta daisies and other perennials.
* Cut back and divide chrysanthemums.
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